Question about 2008 kawasaki KLR 650

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NEED A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 2008 KLR 650

I NEED A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 2008 KLR 650. I HAVE BURNT SOME WIRES COMING FROM THE IGNITION TO THE MAIN FUSE. MELTED TOGETHER, SEEMS LIKE THE WIRES UNDER THE TANK GOT CHAFED AND CAUSED A SHORT IN THE SYSTEM. NOT SURE IF THE PRE 2008 WIRING DIAGRAMS ARE THE SAME.

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Anonymous

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Posted on Jun 14, 2009

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2007 Kawasaki KLR 650 no electrical power


Hi, Ron before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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https://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=96426
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1 Answer

2010 Kawasaki KLR 650 engine diagram


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2010 Kawasaki KLR 650 engine diagram Google Search
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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1 Answer

2012 Kawasaki KLR 650 overheating


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Low coolant level.
2. Restricted radiator air flow.
3. Faulty thermostat.
4. Coolant pump or fans inoperative.
5. Vent hose crimped.
6. Air in the coolant and needs bleeding.
7. Engine idling too long or bike moving too slow.
8. Coolant too old needs to be replaced.
9. Faulty temperature sensor, wiring or connector.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Apr 04, 2013 | 2008 kawasaki KLR 650

1 Answer

2008 Kawasaki KLR 650 common problems


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Dec 11, 2012 | 2008 kawasaki KLR 650

1 Answer

2008 Kawasaki KLR 650 how to replace the ignition switch


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Jul 22, 2012 | 2008 kawasaki KLR 650

1 Answer

2009 Kawasaki KLR 650 rear wheel torque specs


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

2003 Kawasaki KLR 650 keeps blowing the main fuse


Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://advrider.com/index.php?threads/2009-klr650-main-fuse-blows-instantly.611356
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1 Answer

1989 Kawasaki KLR 650 wiring diagram


Hi, Percy for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2000 Kawasaki KLR 650 dead short


Hi, Becky5 you have a dead short which is usually the easiest to find. Using a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder, start probing the wire leaving the fuse holder about an inch away from the test light should illuminate, keep probing towards the ignition switch until the test light no longer illuminates you are now very close to the short.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

My 2001 KLR 650 was recently stolen and recovered. In an attempt to get it started the thieves cut the wires from the loom to ignition switch and joined all (6) wires together. However as there is both...


I would definitely get a good manual with wiring diagrams. Make sure the CDI has power and ground to the proper CDI input wires, and that all wiring connections are tight. I'm assuming the battery is charged and the starter spins the motor over nicely. There may also be a throttle position switch which will kill the ignition if it senses a discrepancy in the throttle cable position. Try twisting open the throttle while cranking and you may get spark in a position other than idle.
Jordan

Oct 02, 2009 | 2001 kawasaki KLR 650

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