Jinlun 125-11 I recentely fitted a new tarter motor to my bike, but now the starter chain is very slack, and makes slack chain noise hen starting. can you tell me how to tighten the starter chain please. Thankyou.

The chain and the engine starting sound like two different problems. So we'll deal with the chain first. You can add a couple linksof chain using a master link to the chain which you can pick up at just about any hardware store for cheap money. Just bring your chain with you so you get the right size links. Next time if/when you order a chain (maybe you were planning on using the old chain?) you usually order the chain a little bigger and you can cut off any extra links to make the chain fit better. On most bikes there is some adjustment to slide the tire either forward or back to make the chain fit properly. Is you tire moved all the way forward? Lots of questions about the engine that you didn't mention. Does the piston move freely or is it seized? Maybe needs a new spark plug? They can get fouled on 2 strokes especially if you have a load on the engine because your chain is too tight. FIx the chain issue, then go through the usual checks of the engine...Is it getting fuel, Spark, Air, etc

If it has only started doing it with that tyre, then it is possible that that tyre is not compatible with your bike. Sounds silly, I know. But bikes are strange animals, and some tyres will create speed wobbles and vibrations and when you change them over to another brand it all goes away. Take it back to the people who fitted the tyre and have them check it out. If they find nothing ask them to fit another brand of tyre to see it that cures the problem.

sounds like the brushes in starter motor remove and bring to starter shop

ull need a clymer manual-each bike is different-thats bottom end work and special tools r also needed

keep the bike on side stand, then put gear on chain, then do your best to get it aligned,push starter in and bolt it up. even though there is slack once its in it will stay.(mine did)

First may I say I don't know for sure your bike model that well (In- line 4 cylinder or water cooled twin?) BUT I am very experienced with motorcycles ( I am a qualified motorcycle mechanic & have owned GPZ 550, Z650, ZIR-II ).
For starters Kwasaki have used two different methods of delivering drive from the starter motor to the engine. Gear driven & chain driven. The chain driven type ( like GPZ 900 R ) were equiped with a tensioner. If yours has a tensioner be sure to change it with a new one also.

Both of the styles of drives ( chain & gear ) incorporate what is called a starter clutch mechanism.

This is what allows drive from the starter motor to be applied only when the starter motor is activated & free wheel when the engine runs. It is a one way clutch mechanism.

I am explaining this because a verry common fault on all electric start bikes is the starter clutch. ( except Moto-Guzzi, BMW, Harley which use a car style starter with a sliding pinion ).

When the starter clutch is faulty it displays a very distinct symptom.

When the starter motor is activated, you will hear a "whizz" followed by a crunching noise rather reminicent of a chain jumping teeth on a sprocket.

If this is the case with your bike & is what is what led you to change the chain, plus is what your continueing problem is, I would suggest you check the starter clutch.

The starter clutch comprises of a drive gear(the one that the chian, or startor motor output shaft drives), 3 rollers, three springs with guide pins, & the housing plate for the rollers & springs with guides.

To effectivly repair a starter clutch it is necessary to replace the gear, the 3 rollers, the 3 springs, sometimes the housing plate if it is also worn (from the rollers moveing)

I am hopefull this may shed some light as to the cause of your problem.

If not please post a comment & I'll try to help you further.

Regards Andrew porrelli

By rights you should pull the sidecase off the motor & the rocker cover, & fit an endless chain over the crankshaft to the cam(s)if you can get a chain with a joining link or get one from a bike shop & ask them to split it for you, you can just take the top cover off the motor, line the cam timing up (piston @ top dead centre(should have timing mark), cam lobes (pointy part) facing as far as you can get both at the same time from the cams, remove timing chain tensioner, let old chain go slack, join new one to it & loosely pull through, make sure bike is upright when you put new one in so chain locates on bottom sprocket properly, then reassemble chain & peen pins over with ball peen hammers.

Does the noise sound like a whining noise or goes up and down in tone when you reve the bike in nutral? If it does the primarly drive chain needs to be adjusted. Under the bike you will see a bolt with a slot on the end of it and a nut around the bolt. This is the bolt for the chain tightner or nylon adjuster. On the same side of the bike you will see a small cover about couple of inches long with two screws in it holding the cover on. This is the primary drive chain inspection hole. You need to remove the cover and with a good flash light you will see a chain. Make sure the bike is shut off, keys removed and properly secured so it wont move. I recommend a small screwdriver to stick in there to see if you can move the chain up and down. If you can move the chain up and down more than 3/8 of inch it needs to be adjusted by turning the slotted screw clock wise a quarter of a turn. Check the chain after you made the quarter turn for starters and see if the drive chain tighten up. It should have tighten up. Keep turning the screw the same way until the primary drive chain has about 3/8 slack in it. Once again do not tighten the chain so you cant move it. The chain has to have some slack in it or it will or you will damage other components. You may also want to call the harly davidson dealer and give them the model of your bike and they should tell you the adjustment range. I run mine at 3/8 and have no problems. Also have you ever changed the transmission fluid? That would not hurt as well after you have done the above. Before you do the above chain adjustment, you will need to run the bike for a few minutes to operating temparature before the adjustment to allow for expansion.

Once you have made the adjustment, you will haft to place a screw driver in the slotted end of the bolt and use a good oepn end metric wrecnh to tighten the nut. Becareful not to over tighten the nut or it will casue stripping of the threads. Then replcae the chain cover and make sure the gasket looks ok before assemblying it. Its a good idea to pick up this gasket for a few bucks as you have about a 50/50 chance it will leak a little if you use the old one. Someone always asks me how tight do I tighten the bolts or screws. I simply say to them try and remember what it felt like when you had to loosen them. apply the same force to tighten them.

Put belt on motor pully first then turn big pully around!Like fitting bike chain.