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Look at the universal joints on the 2 ends of the drive shaft. The hubs may have dried up and wore out you might be grinding metal. If so, you need to replace the universal joints before the drive shaft falls out.
the differential is that item that allows one shaft to move separate to the other connected shaft. That is to say the left wheel to go faster /slower than the right wheel as in going around a corner or moving on uneven ground. There is one in front wheel drive vehicles , in rear wheel drive vehicles , and if you have an All wheel drive vehicle there is another between the front wheels and the rear wheels in the transfer case /gearbox. Unless you have metal or water contamination in the unit or have used the wrong oil in the unit it is not necessary to flush out the diff. Changing the oil as you would the sump oil is sufficient ( drain out and refill).A word of caution here. There is a special oil used in limited slip differentials so make sure that you replace the drained oil with the correct oil for the diff as damage will result if you don't.
Final drive assemblies on motorcycles generally cost over $1000. They tend to show signs of dirt after only 5000 miles. Having driven shaft drive motor cycles for over 30 years I usually change my 85/90 Hypoid gear oil at every second engine oil change. It is never very dirty but if taken into the sun light will show some fine metal chips (nothing to worry about). I highly recommend using synthetic Hypoid gear oil. It will cause less friction and the final drive will run at a much cooler temperature. One quart of Hypoid gear oil will change the rear end oil 3 or 4 times so it is good, cheap preventive maintenance. Simply take off the large fill cap, place a pan under the small drain bolt at the bottom of the pan,remove the drain bolt, drain the oil, put the drain bolt back in, and fill the final drive to the bottom of the larger fill hole (usually a quarter to half cup of oil), then replace the large cap being careful to only snug it tight enough to seal in the oil. If you over tighten it, it is designed to break! Be sure to check the owners manual on the exact amount of oil to use. Honda has changed the fill technique for some of the newer models. With a higher fill hole on some newer models you may be over filling the final drive, so you may have to measure the amount. Too much oil will cause waste and may cause over flow out the top vent. Happy Trails.
I hope you win your bet but, the drain for the oil is center of the oil pan. There are no other drain plugs near that. They may have drained the differential or transfer case by mistake if that is a front wheel drive. If they over filled your engine oil they should be repairing the engine though. Transmission fluid is red and it would have been obvious they drained that by mistake so I would agree that wasn't what was drained.
Get 4 quarts of JASO MA certified motor oil. I recommend synthetic , it will shift better when hot. Amsoil is a good choice. Place an oil pan under the front of the motor. Use a 6 point socket to loosen the bolt on the round finned oil filter cover on the front right corner of the motor and spin it off.Take the oil filter out of the cover and make sure you save the washer that will stick to the rubber seal. Pull bolt out of cover and replace o-ring. put bolt back thru cover, first slide on spring,then washer,and then filter and spin back onto motor pressing filter against engine case. Snug bolt but do not over tighten. Now remove bolt in the middle of the front/bottom of motor(large one in middle , NOT small one under water pump). Check aluminum washer,if bad replace.After oil has drained put bolt back in , do not over tighten.Take off fill plug on right rear corner of motor(by final drive shaft) Using a funnel pour in 4 quarts oil (3.9 is correct amount, 1/10th quart does not seem to bother anything). Put plug back in , start up, and check for leaks.
This is straight from the book.
1. Remove oil pan.
2. Place large drain pan under engine
3. Unbolt the pump and exstension shaft from the rear main cap.
4. Lower same
5.Before reinstall prime the pump with engine oil. Pour oil in the exstension shaft while turning the pump.
6. Attach the pump, extension shaft and retainer to the main bearing cap.
(aling the pump with the dowel pins while you align the top end of the exstension shaft with the lower end of the oil pump drive.
Note when proper it fits into place easily.
7. install the pump mounting bolt and torque to spec.
8. Put the oil pan back on.
Well, you'll want to get under your car and locate the oil pan. It should look something like a metal box and you'll find it in the middle of the engine area. There will be a nut, probably 9/16th size, so you';ll need a wrench or socket. When this becomes loose enough, use your fingers to twist it off. Be warned! Once this nut is off oil will immediatly become rushing out. You'll probably want to have a bucket or something to catch the oil. Once the oil has drained, tighten the nut back onto the oilpan. The oil filter shouldn't be far from the oilpan, probably a little bit upwards, you'll should be able to see it from where you drained your oil, but you can also sometimes spot it when leaning over your engine. Be sure to wet the lip of your new oil filter with clean/new oil before replacing it!