2008 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King Classic Logo
Posted on Jun 10, 2009
Answered by a Fixya Expert

Trustworthy Expert Solutions

At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.

View Our Top Experts

I would like to see exactly where you would adjust the clutch cable.demonstrate please.

1 Answer

Anonymous

Level 2:

An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Governor:

An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

Hot-Shot:

An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Expert 80 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 10, 2009
Anonymous
Expert
Level 2:

An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Governor:

An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

Hot-Shot:

An expert who has answered 20 questions.

Joined: Jun 06, 2009
Answers
80
Questions
0
Helped
57484
Points
194

Start at the clutch cable, loosen the locknut and screw the cable in so that there are no threads showing (till the adjuster touches the locknut.

You have to remove the derby cover (the big round cover with 5 screws on the outer primary) so the bike has to be sitting upright or the primary fluid will leak out.

Remove the derby cover, get an 11/16 (i think) socket and loosen the lock nut on the end of the clutch basket (use a hammer to tap the ratchet and loosen the nut).

Unsrew the nut a few turns and get an allen wrench (I forget what size but find one that will fit in the end of the rod that you just loosened up the nut on)

Using the allen key turn the rod in untill the clutch just start to engage, stop there then turn the allen 1/2 a turn out then using the ratchet and socket tighten the lock nut on the end of the clutch basket (tap the ratchet with a hammer to tighten so that the rod you just adjusted 1/2 a turn out does not move.

Now go back to the clutch cable and screw the cable back out so that you can see the clutch lever start to tighten up. Adjust the cable so that when you grab and pull the cable just before the lever you get a space just wide enough to slip a quarter into. So where the cable goes into the lever you want a little freeplay, the correct freeplay is 1/16 to 1/8, about the width of a quarter. Tighten the locknut on the clutch cable and put the derby cover back on.

Thats all there is to it, I hope this is clear enough, any questions just ask.

Here is the instructions from the manual:

1. Position motorcycle on a suitable lift, upright and level.
Point front wheel straight ahead.
2. Remove five TORX screws with captive washers to detach
clutch inspection cover from primary chaincase cover.
3. Remove and discard seal.
4. See Figure 1-20. Add free play to cable.
a. Slide rubber boot (1) off cable adjuster.
b. Holding cable adjuster (2) with 1/2 in. wrench, loosen
jam nut (3) using a 9/16 in. wrench.
c. Turn cable adjuster (2) until there is a large amount
of free play at clutch hand lever.
5. See Figure 1-21. Loosen jam nut (1) on clutch adjuster
screw (2). To take up all free play, turn screw inward
(clockwise) until lightly seated. Activate the clutch lever to
verify the balls are seated in the ramps.
6. Back out adjusting screw (counterclockwise) 1/2 to 1 full
turn.Tighten jamnut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm), while
holding adjusting screw with an Allen wrench.
7. Squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set
ball and ramp release mechanism.
8. Check free play.
a. Turn cable adjuster away from jam nut until slack is
eliminated at hand lever.
b. See Figure 1-22. Pull clutch cable ferrule (2) away
from clutch lever bracket (3) to check free play. Turn
cable adjuster as necessary to obtain 1/16-1/8
in. (1.6-3.2 mm) free play between end of cable ferrule
and clutch lever bracket.
9. Hold adjuster with 1/2 in. wrench. Using 9/16 in. wrench,
tighten jam nut against cable adjuster. Cover cable
adjuster mechanism with rubber boot.

10. Install clutch inspection cover and new seal as follows:
a. Thoroughly wipe all lubricant from cover mounting
surface and groove in chaincase.
b. Position new seal (1) in groove in primary chaincase
cover and press each of the nubs on seal into the
groove. The nubs will retain seal in position.
c. Insert screw (with captive washer) through clutch
inspection cover and carefully thread it into the top
cover screw hole.
d. Start the remaining four screws (with captive
washers).
e. Alternately tighten screws to 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2
Nm) following torque sequence shown in Figure 1-23.

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

I have a 97 DWG I replaced clutch cable exact to the manual now clutch wont engage enough to go into gear even no the cable is tight (no slack) can anybody help?

check the clutch adjustment as the installed cable is too loose to fully disengage the clutch
talk with a bike shop if it is difficult tot adjust correctly
Feb 01, 2017 • Motorcycles
1helpful
1answer

How do I adjust a new clutch cable on a 2005 Yamaha v star 1100?

The normal method is once the cable is lubed and located at the engine and lever ends, the cable adjusters at both ends need to be adjusted to give the correct inner cable slack. I normally apply grease to the outer sheath metal crimps (this ensures they move in the adjusters). I then make sure the engine end adjuster has a small amount of clearance between it and the clutch rod. The final adjustments are then made using the cable adjusters at the lever and engine ends. You need to have about 10mm free play at the lever end. Check the manufacturers hand book for the exact dimension. Please make sure you route the cable the same as the old one, also when you pull in the lever it should close quite sharply when released. If it returns slowly or is stiff to operate then recheck cable route and try adding more lube to the inner cable.
0helpful
2answers

I have dr350 when I pull the clutch lever the clutch arm goes in all the way but it dosent take the bike out of gear

Try tighten cable adjusters, check cable for damage, check the clutch release arm for damage, if thats ok its worn clutch plates replace the clutch plates and check components for damage,
0helpful
1answer

I have to let my clutch handle all the way out before it catches.I installed new clutch and pressure plates, and adjusted it according to the manual, but same problem

You haven't adjusted it correctly. You must adjust the clutch in the exact sequence that the manual tells you to. A lot of people don't like the idea of having to loosen the clutch cable but it has to be done. Find the cable adjuster and loosen the lock nut. Turn the adjuster barrel inwards and get a LOT of slack in the cable. Then, remove the derby cover. You'll see the clutch assembly with the adjuster screw and locknut in the center. Loosen the locknut and turn the screw outwards until it's loose. Turn it back inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw and you may have to turn it back out and then back in several times until you get the feel of what you're doing. Once you feel the resistance, back the screw back out 1/2 turn and lock the lock nut down. Replace the derby cover. Then adjust the cable adjuster barrel back out until you have about an 1/8" free play in the cable. This should adjust your clutch to a more acceptable engagement point. Since your clutch discs are new, be prepared to adjust your clutch several more times as the plates "seat in".

Good Luck
Steve
2helpful
2answers

I need to know the exact specifications to the clutch pushrod on a 93 katana 750

There's no exact spec cause you set the clutch to the way you like it. With the clutch cable adjusted loose. ( the cable adjuster at the clutch handle backed up so thiers alot of free play at the handle). Lossen the lock nut at the clutch pushrod and screw in the adjuster screw till it tightens up. If the handle losses all of the freeplay them back up the cable adjustment even more You may find another adjuster wher the cable enters the engine case. Reconizing the only reason you need to do this is because your putting on a new cable or have installed a new clutch, If you did'nt do any of these repairs the problem that your trying to correct may be a sticking and binding cable. This is a common problem and you pull in the clutch and it's hard to do and you let the clutch out and it slips and engages badly,, With the cable removed ( or loosened up good) It should move very easily in the housing. if it doesn't remove it and move it back an forth all the way and see if it'll loosen up putting it in solvent or rust buster working it back and forth with a good cable lube in it till it works real smooth with little or no resistance. If you can't getr it to work smoothly you need a new cable. with the cable installed loosly turn the screw in till it tightens up and then pull the clutch handle. if the cable is still loose tighten it up till theiers just a little free play ( almost none) This adjusts the cable. Then back out the clutch rod screw trying the handle as you turn the screw till you get a noticeable amount of freeplay at the handle. ( 1/4-1/2 inch) . once completed put the bike in gear and with the bike off and in gear pull the cluch in and rolol the bike slowly letting the cluch out to see where it engages. if it seems good start it up and if it feels good and does'nt grind the gears and starts moving at a reasonable space off the grip, lock all the adjustments and take it for a ride. If the cable acts up any get a new one.
2helpful
1answer

I have slack in the clutch cable (05 Deluxe) and the clutch seems to be slipping. At the same time, when I shift I physically push the lever the remainder of the way open with my fingers????????????...

Ok follow this sequence exactly. First find the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable. It's usually near the frame down-tubes in front of the engine. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster sleeve inward getting as much slack as possible in the cable.

Now down on the primary, take the derby cover off. In the center of the clutch is the adjuster screw. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW OR YOU WILL BREAK THE INNER CLUTCH HUB. If necessary, back the screw off and back in several times until you get the feel for what you're doing. Turn it in just until you feel resistance. Then, back the screw off 1/2 turn. Lock the lock nut down and replace the derby cover.

Back at the cable adjuster, turn the adjuster sleeve back outwards until you only have about an 1/8 inch of free play at the lever. The way I determine this is I pull on the clutch cable and the clutch lever at the same time. Then I release the lever while still pulling on the cable. It's not a really forceful pull, just a slight pull. You'll see the end of the cable come out of the lever stanchion. It should come out about an 1/8 inch or so.

If this doesn't solve the problem, you may have problems with the clutch pack itself.

Good Luck
Steve
0helpful
1answer

Noticed that the revs would build too quickly and did not match the 2004 Rav4 speed in higher gears. 1st gear seems OK. If I accelerate gradually there are no problems. So I'm guessing I need my clutch...

You are exactly right. The clutch is going out. The cable is an automatic adjusting cable. So there is no adjustment. It will require a new clutch.
1helpful
1answer

I Need to adjust My clutch on 2005 Harley,Touring Bike

To adjust the clutch on your ultra, first find the clutch cable and follow it down until you find the rubber bellows cover over the clutch cable adjuster. Move the cover out of the way and loosen the locknut. Turn the cable adjuster inward to get as much slack as possible in the cable.

Now, remove the derby cover. In the center of the clutch assembly, you'll see an adjuster screw and locknut. Loosen the locknut. Turn the center screw inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw. Turn it inwards until you feel the resistance. Then back it back out 1/2 turn and lock the locknut. Replace the derby cover.

Go back to the cable adjuster and adjust it outwards until you have an 1/8" freeplay at the hand lever. Lock the locknut, replace the cover. You may have to tweak the adjuster just bit to get the engage point exactly where you want it.

Good Luck
Steve
2helpful
1answer

How do i get the proper clutch ajustment on a 1989 xlh 1200 sportsters.i have the slack out of the cable and all the play out of the clutch ajustment screw.now what do i do next?

Ok, let's start back over again. To properly adjust the clutch, you MUST do it in a particular method due to the design of the release mechanism.

First, you must "unadjust" the cable. Find the cable adjuster and "unadjust" it making the cable as short as possible, lots of freeplay in the cable.

Then, remove the clutch access cover and remove the spring and the "lockplate" that looks like a nut with a stem on it.
Turn the clutch adjusting screw counterclockwise to remove all the free play.
Now, back off on the screw 1/4 turn.
Then reinstall the "lockplate". if it doesn't want to go back in, you may have to rotate the adjusting screw clockwise just enough to get it back in. Put the spring back in and put the clutch access cover back on.

Readjust the cable so that you have a freeplay at the clutch lever of about a eighth (1/8") inch freeplay or about the thickness of a nickle.

Lock everything down and this should be correct.
I have found that sometimes you have to "tweak" the cable adjustment to get a clutch to engage exactly where a particular rider wants it to start engaging. This is a preference type thing and has to be done on a "trial and error" basis with the cable adjustment. But, you must use this method to adjust the clutch down at the engine end of the cable. Good Luck!
6helpful
1answer

How do you adjust clutch on 2004 Harley Davidson Softail Deuce?

Get the bike standing as straight up as you can without danger of it falling over. This keeps any oil from running out of the primary. Remove the "derby cover" from the outer primary cover giving you access to the clutch adjuster screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate in the primary.

On the clutch cable, slide the rubber boot up or down to expose the adjuster in the cable. It should be on the down tubes of the frame under the fuel tanks. Loosen the lock nut and screw the cable adjuster in as far as it will go thus shortening the cable.

At the clutch back in the primary cover, you'll see a screw that takes a hex allen wrench with a lock nut on it in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Loosen the lock nut and back it off a bit. Screw the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. You want to adjust this in until you feel a resistance, not to the point to where it starts releasing the clutch. Back the screw back out and do this enough times so that you know you are just going to the point of resistance. Turn the screw inward until you get to the point of resistance and then back the screw out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the nut down.

Now, adjust the clutch cable adjuster out making the cable longer You want to adjust the cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the cable lock nut and slide the rubber cover over the adjuster. Test ride the bike. If the clutch does not engage exactly where you want it, use the cable adjuster to fine tune where the clutch engages by lengthing or shortening the cable.
Not finding what you are looking for?

559 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Harley Davidson Experts

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

7339 Answers

Sean Wright
Sean Wright

Level 3 Expert

2045 Answers

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Are you a Harley Davidson Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...