Im a new offroader, i put 15w-40 in my gearbox when changing the oil, it starts and runs but its leaking oil. lightly when the engines off and when im throttling it it cumming out heavier, like theres comprestion in the gear box. when i throttle hard, the oil leak is frothy!!! i dont know if its my drain plug or where the oils leaking??? can you help? thanks, Donny.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I usually just drain the oil. Bar and chain oil is thinner than normal SAE 30. If the engine is not seized, then I would suggest using a 15W-40 oil if you are in a warm climate area. These air cooled engines get hot quickly and that will cause the oil to thin more quickly and become less effective. Using the 15W-40 may cause hard starting at lower temperatures. Depending on how long the engine ran with that oil has a lot to do with the "reliability" of the engine. If it was smoking the last time you used it, then yes the engine needs to be reworked (new rings and valve seals in particular). If it wasn't smoking, I would run it with the heavier oil until it just won't turn anymore. These little engines are pretty tough. If the mower is less than 2 years old, then I would put the manufacturer's recommended oil back in it. Don't be too concerned if all of the old oil doesn't drain. Just change it again around mid-season.
You can use any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate/year round. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings. Do not use any oil that says " Energy Conserving " on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you choose Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier. Shell Rotella T 10w-40 ($12 a gallon) and Rotella T Synthetic 15w-40 ($22 a gallon) are inexpensive JASO MA oils. Be sure to check the label on the bottle, some of the lighter weights are not JASO MA. You will need 4 quarts of oil, an aluminum drain plug washer, and a filter.
I'm pretty sure you want to use gear oil in the crankcase of a two-stroke,(like 80wt Bel Ray).
Standard "car weight" motor oils are 4 stroke, designed to lube the crank & cylinders. your '03 RM has the cylinders lubed by the pre-mix...
A motorcycle specific crankcase lube is the best bet; lots of differing opinions on the wet-clutch aspect.
The 15W-40 apiCH-4 oil will be fine for your 4Runner. It is "better", and here is why....
Your new oil being "ch" grade vs "cd" meets the qualification of "better" grade oil. Oil detergents are constantly being modified and as the letters climb alphabetically, each higher letter means that the oil exceeds the requirements of the grade before it. The "-4" is a designation I do not recognize, so I have some more reading to do. It may just mean that you bought a 4 quart (or liter) container or package, but no matter what it represents, this oil is still better.
The "15W-40" designation means that at 0 degrees F or below, the oil behaves as if it is 15 weight oil, and at operating temperatures, it acts like 40 weight oil. This formulation is designed to make cold weather starting easier, since the oil will be "thinner". Since your new oil is still rated as 40 weight at operating temperatures, just like the manual specifies, You should do fine with it.
Make sure you check your oil level once a week, since your 4Runner has a few years on it, it may be "burning" more oil from normal engine wear.
It is very important to change your oil regularly, especially with a diesel engine. The oil picks up allot of contaminants and it gets dirty very fast in a diesel. Follow the oil change schedule in your manual, and you will be good2go!
Thank You for using FixYa!
Manufacturer recommends "Suzuki Performance 4 Motor Oil". Actually, any SF or SG rated oil under the API service classification will suffice. 10W-40 is the recommended viscosity.
If you can not get 10W-40, the following are acceptable:
14 to 104 degrees F 20W-50 0 to 104 degrees F 15W-40 or 15W-50 -4 to 104 degrees F 10W-40 or 10W-50 -4 to 86 degrees F 10W-30
The Engine oil capacity on the VL 800 is:
3.2 U.S. Quarts (3000 ml) without a filter change
3.6 U.S. Quarts (3400 ml) with a filter change.
You are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device to properly accomplish the oil change. Before you start, locate the oil filter on the front side of the engine, between the engine block and the radiator. Read and copy down the number on the filter. The OEM filter is a Suzuki 16510-03G00-X07, I think.
Start raising the bike on the stand until level, then strap it securely to the stand. Put an oil catch pan/can, etc under the drain plug, which is on the bottom of the engine. Remove the drain plug and catch all the oil. Remove the oil filter. Before installing the new filter, lubricate the rubber gasket with a little of the old oil. Install the new filter, re-install the drain plug tightly and then fill with the above specified type and amount of oil.
There are a number of different places that will accept waste oil for recycling.
DEPENDS ENTIRLY ON WHETHER IT IS PETROL OR DIESEL FOR THE DIESEL MOTOR 15W/40HD DIESELOIL CC-CD FOR NORMAL TO HIGH TEMP CLIMATES---SLIGHTLY LIGHTER IN COLD CONDITIONS PETROL ENGINES ANY HIGH QUALITY MULTIGRADE OIL IS CONDIDERED SATISFACTORY BY TOYOTA
The gearbox does on have a dip stick it has a filler plug up top and a two part drain plug on the bottom of the transmission.
What you do is once the engine is warm, with the engine running you remove the centre plug and is the gearboxs level is low nothing much will come out. Some will come out as the tube gets full from normal running. If it is high the excess will come out and will stop at the ring.
I had the same problem with my gear box. What I did was remove the tube plug and drain all the oil out of the transmission. You then fill it with 3.5 litres of "Type D" transmission oil. Nothing else. Not Dextron anything or their equivalent.
In effect you have just carried out an transmission service.
I didn't even bother checking the oil level as 3.5 litres is the amount you need to put in and the gearbox has been running perfect ever since. The new oil worked a treat. Snappy changes and the clunking change with the light on stupidity went away.