I have a 1986 ZX600 Ninja. Two of the cylinders intermittently fire. Twice the bike temporarily stranded me. The first time I was riding down the road and the ignition just quit. I pulled off the road and tried starting it 10 times with no luck. I let the bike sit for 10 minutes and tried starting it again and it lit and I was able to drive 8 miles home with no problem. The other time I got temporarily stranded was when I road the bike for 25 minutes and parked it and did some shopping at the men’s mall. I came out a 1/2 hour later and the bike wouldn’t start. So I started pushing the bike to the nearest Kawasaki dealer and after 15 minutes of pushing I tried to start it, and it started right up. And again I was able to drive the bike 25 miles home with no problem. Oh, one other time it wouldn’t start is when I took it to a used motorcycle dealer to get the carbs cleaned. Two days later when the carb cleaning was done, I went to pick it up, and it wouldn't start. I told the guy at this used cycle dealer that the bike wouldn’t start and he said he'd have the mechanic look at it the next day. I went to pick it up the next day and it started right up. There were about 5 other instances when I wanted to take the bike for a ride and it wouldn’t even start in my garage. Therefore, the bike didn't even have a chance to stand me on those days. I don't remember which two cylinder don't fire, but they are the two that the right (as you are sitting on the bike) coil gives spark to. I don't think it's the coil because one of the times when the bike wouldn’t start in my garage I took one of the coils (which looks the same as the Ninja coil) off my 1985 Kawasaki LTD1100, measured the ohms in the LTD coil and compared it to Ninja coil and they were the same. I know the Ninja coil ohms were ok because they matched the ohms specified in the Clymer shop manual. I installed the LTD coil and the bike still wouldn’t start. I also did a visual inspection on the stator and rotor. Visually they looked OK, although I didn’t have the special tool to take off the rotor so I didn’t get a detailed look at the stator. And what the heck is an igniter box. Is this a fancy name for a glorified CDI box? The manual mentioned this igniter box but it said to take bike to shop if the igniter box is problem. Isn't this why we buy shop manuals?, so we don't have to take our bikes to the shop at rate of $200.00 an hour.
I don't think this is a fuel supply problem because the first time this happened I played with the choke and if I had the throttle in just the right spot, the bike started but idled poorly and sounded like a diesel engine. I ran it at idle for 2 minutes and just cracked the throttle and the bike died. I then felt the four exhaust pipes and the two that the right coil gives spark to were cold the other two were hot. No wonder it sounded like a diesel engine, only two cylinders were firing. Anyway, if anyone has a clue to what might be wrong with my Ninja or have even heard of this problem with Ninjas, please give me your input
Thanks,
KP
SOURCE: 91 zx600 ninja voltage regulator
they are all pretty close, check the plug shape and the different colored wires going in. most stators put out similar voltage and amps, it should have three yellow or white which are the ac voltage and a red and a black for positive and earth, if there are other colors as well make sure the replacement has the same
SOURCE: how do I clean the carborator on my 1994 kawasaki
Carburator Theory and Tuning
For some reason everyone seems
to think tuning a carb is just real easy. Change a jet or two and boom,
your there. Yeah, right ! There are quite literally millions and
millions of jet combinations. A rough check on Bing carbs shows there
are at least 13,860,000 different combinations of jets. If you are going
to change carbs you'd better be prepared to spend some time and money
on the job.
If you look at a carburetor,
you will notice a rather large hole going from one side to the other.
This is called a Venturi. Air passes into the engine through this hole
(Venturi). As the velocity of the air entering the carb (and then the
engine) increases, it's pressure decreases, creating a low pressure or
vacuum in the venturi. This vacuum moves around in the venturi, as the
throttle is opened, and sucks gasoline through the different jets in the
carb. The gas then mixes with the air going through the venturi. The
way the jets are made
causes the fuel to vaporize as it goes into the venturi. Where the jets
are placed in the carb and where the jet's outlet is located in the
venturi, determines what part of the throttle opening that jet controls.
The idle jet system (comprised of pilot air jet, pilot fuel jet and
pilot fuel screw) controls from 0% to about 25% of the throttle opening.
The throttle valve controls 0% to 35% of the throttle opening. The
needle jet and jet needle control from 15% to 80% of the throttle
opening and the main jet controls 60% to 100%. This means that when you
open the throttle about one eighth of the way open, all of the gas/air
mixture going into your engine is controlled by the idle jet. As you can
see, the different jets over lap the operating range of each other.
That is, the jet needle starts to effect things before the effect of the
idle jet ends. This is something to remember when working on carbs...
everything is interconnected. Change one thing and it will effect other
things.
OK, let's go over the different systems in
the carb and see what they do.
SOURCE: picture of the ignition wires and where they go on
Is this the one you need ,ignition coils?
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