Grizzly 125 transmission stopped working after chain fell off

Grizzly 125 stalls in reverse - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum

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Oct 18, 2013 - 13 posts My dad just bought a 125 and it stalls the instant u pit it in reverse. ... electrical sensor that will kill the engine if the brake isnt depressed when u go into reverse. so now i need to ..... yamaha grizzly 125 dies when put in reverse.

Specify Make/Model and year or hours on machine for a more precise answer. You may have a manual transmission or a Hydraulic transmission.

Possibly, based on your description of the problem, your hydraulic transmission is going out. It might be possible to save the tranny. If it is a Hydraulic Transmission, the following info might give you some direction.

The NOT SERVICEABLE UN-TRUTH.

The Huskvarna YTH150 uses Hydrogear transmission 319-0650, drive model 150071. One place to find parts and diagrams for most Huskvarnas is here: http://www.m-and-d.com/Hydro-Gear_parts.html

MTDs use Hydrogear trannys also. Go to the site and enter 618-0319 in the search box. It will bring up a selection of MTD transmissions.

Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid is actually 10W-50 synthetic motor oil (like Mobil 1). Do not use hydraulic fluid or transmission fluid.

Hydro static transmissions on most lawn tractors are very similar. Most of them are made by one or two manufacturers. Tuff Torq makes a lot of them, but not the Huskvarnas. They do make all the John Deere lawn tractor hydro drives. The lawn tractor manufacturers (like JD) often say they are sealed and not serviceable. That is flat out, an untruth. All of the JD hydros, and most all others, are serviceable. A complete line of rebuild/replacement parts can be found at Tuff Torq. Info and instructions can be found there. They have a lot of good general info for anyone rebuilding their tranny.

Additionally, I have found that the mower manufacturers fill them (or spec them) with motor oil, 10W-30W. In the service manual, and at the hydro manufacturer, you are told if your tractor is used in extreme or heavy duty situations it's best to drain the oil and replace it with 10W-50 synthetic motor oil (like Mobil 1). Truth is the tranny should have this oil from the get go. It will give you more power and extend the life of the tranny. The mower manufacturers are all just being cheap. They figure why not, you're the one who has to pay for the early failure. Oh yeah, one other minor detail, the tranny manufacturer also recommends regular oil changes, like every 100 hours.

Virtually all of these trannys have a black drain plug on the top, if they don't have an add on reservoir. You have to remove the tranny from the mower (not a difficult things to do, takes about 30 min). Pull that black plug (I used a 1" putty knife to pry mine out) and turn the tranny upside down for about 30 min to completely drain. Most hold about 2 quarts. Flip it back, right side up, and refill. Install plug and reinstall tranny. Note: under the plug there is often a magnet which collects metal shavings. Lift this magnet out while you have the plug out, clean it and replace it. It may fall out while the tranny is upside down.

When you refill the fluid just keep filling till it comes up within a quarter inch of the plug. You may have to go through a bleed process after reinstalling the tranny. The tuff torq site explains the bleed process.

Bad valve body, solenoids. Sticking servos. There are transmission additives that can help. But they are usually a temporary fix. Can last a couple of months, or a couple of years. Eventually it will have to be fixed.

Could be bad torque converter.

First check the tranny fluid level. If its good, its probably black in color. They are prone to internal tranny problems. It sounds like the forward clutch assembly in the tranny has gone. Quite often its the reaction clutch assembly, but with that it affects 3rd and reverse, it should still move forward. 4T60 transmission.

the rod you mentioned is called linkage, yes it's posible, snow may have jammed up under the car and is stopping it from properly engageing, or the grinding could be internal in the transmition, jack the car up, put jack stands under the frame,block the tiers, and take a real good look at were the linckage conects to the tranny, good luck

Sounds like an internal gear problem with the transmission. I would remove the transmission and open it up, anything that is broken will be easy to spot. All of the parts are available at a local hobby shop or from Traxxas directly.

replace the transmission sounds like it is bad.

GO WITH THE CHEAP FIX FIRST CHANGE THE INPUT , OUTPUT SOLENOID AT ONLY $30 A PIECE AT YOU LOCAL AUTOPART IF IT DOESNT WORK CHANGE THE SOLENOID PACK , AT $ 125 AT YOUR LOCAL AUTIPART
LAST FIX IS THE COMPUTER LOCATED UNDER THE SPLASH GUARD AT THE DRIVER FRONT WEEL
YOU CAN GET IT REBUILD FOR $150 BUCKS

If the chain in the transfer case broke, they don't fall off, you would know. It would make the noise all the time. The noise your hearing is most likley from the transmission. If you have the 2.5L engine you have an ax5 transmission, the 4.0L came with an ax15. Both transmissions work basicly the same. Gears 1-2 share a shift fork, so do 3-4. I would guess that you have'nt got to 5th gear. There is most likley a problem with the shift fork or the gear synchronizer. You cant be sure till you open it up. The hardest part about working on transmissions is getting over the fear of working on transmissions. I have been fixing cars for about twelve year now and still get a kick out of good mechanics who are afraid of transmissions. If your a farly handy person, its not that hard to take the top off and look. Buy a shop manual and remove the shift lever and the cover under it. The shift forks will come out with the cover, and the rings that they attach to in the transmission are the synchronizer's. If you get that far you'll figure out whats wrong. Bad synchronizer's mean the tranny's coming out. Hope this helps.