My fuel gauge does not read how much fuel I have in it, it says I need fuel even though the tank is full and how do I remove the fuel pump from the tank to inspect because this is the only thing i can think of that might be causeing my issue. How can i make my fuel gauge work again?
without changing out your fuelline I would not reccomend to go for a higher pressure and flow.
About the fuelpump....sometimes going for the cheap option is in the longrun more expensive.
Typically there's a plug that feed the power to the fuel pump on the right side of the bike. If you unplug and check it with a volt meter with the key on you can confirm if there's power getting to the pump if so the pump most likely went bad
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It sounds like a short to ground on the gauge circuit but see below for further and better diagnosis:
When the ignition switch is ON the fuel gauge is connected to 12 VDC, current flows through the gauge and the variable resistor in the fuel gauge sending unit to ground. The sending unit float controls the amount of resistance in the variable resistor. Malfunctioning fuel gauges may be the result of a fuel gauge sender or a fuel gauge not being properly grounded OR there may be a defect in the fuel gauge sender or in the fuel gauge itself OR there may be an open circuit caused by a loose or disconnected connection or a broken wire between the ignition switch to the fuel gauge.
A suspect fuel gauge system can be tested by FIRST removing the gauge and grounding the Y/W wire of the fuel gauge sender located at the bottom of the gauge, turning the ignition switch ON at which point the fuel gauge must indicate FULL. And if it does so then the fuel gauge is functioning correctly.And if it does not read FULL then get a multimeter set to the RX1 scale and measure the resistance of the sending unit by placing one of the meter probes on the Y/W wire and the other probe on a good ground. THEN for FLHT/C/U, FLTR if thefuel tank is full the meter reading should be 7-14 ohms and if the tank is empty the meter resistance reading should be 74-95 ohms resistance and a half full tank meter resistance reading will be approximately 30-38 ohms. For FLHR/C/S if the fuel tank is full, the meter resistance reading should be 27-40 ohms, if the tank is empty 240-264 ohms and if half full approximately 97-118 ohms. FOR ALL MODELS if there is a very high meter resistance or infinity reading the sender may be "open" or not grounded. In this case check to see if the sender and fuel tank are grounded by placing one of the ohmmeter probes on the flange of the sender and the other probe on crankcase and if the ground is good the meter must indicate one ohm or less and if the reading is one ohm or less the sender is defective and requires replacement and if a higher resistance reading is obtained you will need to check for a poor ground wire. THEN you can check the voltage to the O/W (+) wire and the BK (-) wire of the fuel gauge connector if the gauge did not indicate FULL and the correct reading will depend on the source voltage and the level of fuel in the tank or the position of the sender float arm on the variable resistor etc. If there is NO battery voltage present there may be a broken, highly corroded or disconnected power wire. If you cannot find a problem using the above testing replace the gauge itself.
When the ignition switch is ON the fuel gauge is connected to 12 VDC, current flows through the gauge and the variable resistor in the fuel gauge sending unit to ground. The sending unit float controls the amount of resistance in the variable resistor. Malfunctioning fuel gauges may be the result of a fuel gauge sender or a fuel gauge not being properly grounded OR there may be a defect in the fuel gauge sender or in the fuel gauge itself OR there may be an open circuit caused by a loose or disconnected connection or a broken wire between the ignition switch to the fuel gauge.
A suspect fuel gauge system can be tested by FIRST removing the gauge and grounding the Y/W wire of the fuel gauge sender located at the bottom of the gauge, turning the ignition switch ON at which point the fuel gauge must indicate FULL. And if it does so then the fuel gauge is functioning correctly.And if it does not read FULL then get a multimeter set to the RX1 scale and measure the resistance of the sending unit by placing one of the meter probes on the Y/W wire and the other probe on a good ground. THEN for FLHT/C/U, FLTR if thefuel tank is full the meter reading should be 7-14 ohms and if the tank is empty the meter resistance reading should be 74-95 ohms resistance and a half full tank meter resistance reading will be approximately 30-38 ohms. For FLHR/C/S if the fuel tank isfull, the meter resistance reading should be 27-40 ohms, if the tank is empty 240-264 ohms and if half full approximately 97-118 ohms. FOR ALL MODELS if there is a very highmeter resistance or infinity reading the sender may be "open" or not grounded. In this case check to see if the sender and fuel tank are grounded by placing one of the ohmmeter probes on the flange of the sender and the other probe on crankcase and if the ground is good the meter must indicate one ohm or less and if the reading is one ohm or less the sender is defective and requires replacement and if a higher resistance reading is obtained you will need to check for a poor ground wire. THENyou can check the voltage to the O/W (+) wire and the BK (-) wire of the fuel gauge connector if the gauge did not indicate FULL and the correct reading will depend on the source voltage and the level of fuel in the tank or the position of the sender float arm on the variable resistor etc. If there is NO battery voltage present there may be a broken, highly corroded or disconnected power wire. If you cannot find a problem using the above testingreplace the gauge itself.
the fuel gauge sender is a float in the tank running against a coil of wire if the float has filled with fuel it wont float,first to check two wires connected to sender,pull off and touch together that sould read full on gaugeif not its the gauge at fault,if its ok youll need to get sender from tank its normall held with a big nut half turn to release,check for corrosion breaks or damage good luck
It could be a bad fuel gauge in the dash unit, but....
Usually it's "The bad".
The fuel level sending wipe arm and windings on the fuel sender wear and send erratic readings.The only cure is a replacement fuel gauge sender.
The check engine light should not be related to the erratic fuel readings.
"The good".
If you have over 200,000kms or 120,000 miles on your van you need a new fuel pump anyway,so have a complete assembly put in which will have a new fuel sender on it.
check first the guage indicator,,,if its good,,, full down the fuel tank and check the fuel gauage sending unit(fuel level sensor) is attached to the to the fuel pump control module..
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