Bleeding front brakes - 1998 BMW R 1200 C

Bleed master cylinder ,with brake lines disconnected,then connect brake lines and bleed each brake line at master cylinder. then right rear brake,then left rear brake,then right front brake and last,left front brake.

Michael:

You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.

Here's a link to bleeding your brakes. Repair Guides Brake Operating System Bleeding The Brake System AutoZone...

bleed it with key on

Your rear brake pedal operates the rear caliper and the front disc. When you tried to bleed the left front caliper you let air into the rear brake system. Bleed the rear brake and front left caliper using the rear brake pedal that should restore the rear (and front) brakes.

your probably going to have to bleed the entire system.1st try & bleed the master cyl.
basicly the same as you would bleed the front/rear brakes. pump pedal & hold while someone
loosen the brake line on the master cyl. after m/c is bleed move to r/r,l/r,r/f,l/f wheels in
that order. if you have abs brakes & you got air in the pump a scan tool may be needed
to bleed properly.

First, there is NO Pumping of the brake pedal
involved in bleeding brakes

I think your smart enough to know you
need to replace both rear brake hoses,
before you proceed with the bleeding

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

normally, the brakes are bled starting from the furthest brake to the closest with respect to the master brake cylinder. the sequence is : right rear, left rear, right front, left front. pump the brakes until pressure is built up. do this rather slowly. while keeping downward pressure on the pedal, open the bleed screw slowly. the pedal will go to the floor. hold the pedal on the floor and tighten the bleed screw. do this until no air is observed. keep the reservoir. repeat with the rest of the brakes following in sequence

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf90347.htm

loosen the front brake line that goes to the master cylinder fill master cylinder up with fluid and bleed it first by attaching a flexible line from master cylinder front brake side submerge that line into jar of brakefluid keeping air from entering line get someone to pump brake pedal while ur holding line in a jar keep refilling the brake resivoir so no air gets in, once the master is bled front brake side then reattach the origional brake line then remove bleed screw from caliper and let fluid gravity flow down to calliper then bleed the normal way. more than likely your master cylinder has air trapped in the front portion good luck