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The stock spark plug is an NGK CR7HSA. Is a kill switch on? Does the side stand have a kill switch? Is it working properly? Check the operation of all kill switches with a volt ohmmeter. Check the wiring harness. Did a wire come unplugged? Are all wires clean and with solid connections? Any abraded or pinched wires? If still no spark, get CDI system checked at the dealers shop.
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coil you can test if you have a coil tester but doubt you do. CDI cant be tested. could also be a pick up coil on the stator, ignition switch, kill switch, tether if it has one.
First check spatk plug is actually sparking by removing it from engine and reconnecting plug cap, then place metal part of plug against engine, with ignition on crank it over, if no spark try replacing plug first, if that fails check plug cap, lead, ignition coil and all the way back to the cdi unit
By distributor, is that the cap or the whole piece of aluminum- housing with stator assembly/ control module/shaft/rotor/cap, the whole sha-bang. If it was the "whole" distributor & If it ran before you put the distributor in & you only had sparks then the distributor was installed wrong. Check for spark at the end of the plug wires. If you have spark then its more likely the distributor is in wrong &/or the firing order is off.
Stator is volts AC ,isolate the wires from system check AC volts from one stator wire to the other until all combinations have been noted.you are looking for 40 or 50 volts in the pairs of stator output wires.weak spark could be volt regulator.or weak or dirty connections in the wires or at battery terminals. also running lots or ad-ons can **** the life out of performance.Am thinking of changing my name to check ALL your fuses, because they are not all in the box.
you just make a ground, and pull the engine over, if it is weak spark all the time, it is probably the coil, there isnt a meter, its just feel, if its running like ****, replace the coils and see what happens, this happend to me
if the stator is producing suffient voltage then it's not being amplified by the coil possibe causes are poor grounding of the coil, poor primary electrical connection to the coil from the stator a compromized kill swith wires or possible some water in the switch it self keep in mind it takes two conductors to make a spark are you grounding the plug to bear metal when you are kicking it over ?
and have you tried a different spark plug doesent take much spark it can be pretty difficult to to visualy deterimine if you have suffient spark try putting a tea spoon of gas down the cylinder put the plug back in -cap on a kick it a few times if it fires you might be on the wrong track
Good Luck
If it ran before, I would double check your electrical connections. Its more likely you didn't get a connector pushed all the way together or left off a ground wire. The ignition coil specs are generally 1 ohm or less on the primary (small Wire) side, and 5K-10K ohms on the secondary (spark plug) side. Each side should be tested to ground. Pick-up coils are typically open or really large ohm reading in Megaohms normally and around 100 ohms when the magnet on the flywheel passes by. there is no way to test the CDI box other than putting it on a know running bike or getting a known good CDI and putting it on your bike. Double check that the spark plug cap is secured to the high tension lead as well. Testing the stator is a little more complicated, but a quick way is to close the gap on an old spark plug to about 0.010" and see if there is a week spark. If so, the stator will need to be replaced.
You may have dirt/water in-/ behind the stator plate, remove right side (as you sit on it) plate and check for any kind of debris. Clean and find point of entry - repair and seal.
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