Rear wheel or final drive assembly

Did anybody actually read his question? He was asking about a noise in his "shsft drive" motorcycle near the final gear assembly.
To me ot sounds like the backlash is out of adjustment and/or the rear wheel tooth contact needs adjusting.

This should help you a fair bit, it's not that big a job.
Instructions below found at:
http://motorcycle.justanswer.com/questions/1ayag-remove-rear-wheel
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In addition to the obvious of elevating the back of the motorcycle to get the weight off the rear tire, you need to unbolt the final drive from the swing arm and remove the final drive and rear wheel as an assembly. The drive shaft will come out with the final drive, not a problem.

Once you get the assembly off the bike, you can remove the axle then separate the final drive from the rear wheel and do what you needed to do.

When you go to re-install the drive shaft, you have to align the splines. Sometimes it is easier to put the bike in gear so the female splines on the intermediate shaft don't turn as you rotate the rear wheel to insert the drive shaft.
When you go to put it back together, just tighten the bolts that hold the final drive to the swing arm evenly in a crossing pattern until tight.

As an aside note, while you have it off, make sure you grease the splines on the end of the drive shaft and the splines for the rear wheel before putting it back together
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All the best, plainnash

Center stand the bike, loosen the rear axle nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling

Center stand the bike,loosen the rear axel nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling

Raise the rear wheel off the ground making sure that the bike is properly supported and will not fall. Remove the nut from the end of the axle. Loosen the rear wheel adjusters and get some slack in the final drive belt. Continue to drive the axle out. Once the axle is out, the wheel will drop down and you can work the belt off the wheel and get the wheel out from under the bike. Make sure you mark any spacers that are in the wheel so you can get them back in their proper location.

When reassembling the wheel, first work the belt over the rear pulley. Then insert the spacers in their proper locations. Lift the wheel and carefully work the rotor back between the brake pads. You may have to sure a screwdriver to open up the pads enough to get the rotor started back between the pads. Insert the axle and work it back through the brake caliper bracket, spacers and the wheel. Install the nut loosely on the end of the axle.

Readjust the final drive belt tension making sure you keep the rear wheel in proper alignment with the bike. Once the final drive belt is properly tensioned, tighten the nut to 50 foot pounds of torque. Spin the wheel and check for proper rotation. Check the brakes prior to riding the bike. Good Luck.

Easy as pie. Put bike on center stand or use swingarm stand. Remove nut from rear axle. Remove pinch bolt from rear axle, and pull axle out. Take spacer from between frame and rear brake. Remove brake strut, and brake caliper. Pull wheel out of final drive, and lower to floor. You might have to let the air out of the tire to get it out from between the final drive and swingarm. After changing the rear tire inflate it to seat the bead, deflate to get back in place, then reinflate. Put some grease on the splines in the final drive before reinstalling the wheel, this will make it easier for the next change.

Pull the rear axle, and spacer on the brake side of wheel. Un hook brake rod and brake strut. Position yourself on the brake side of the bike and pull the rear wheel straight out of the final drive housing. Put a little grease on thhe final drive splines upon reinstalling the wheel to aid removal next time.

Hello,

In order to remove the rear wheel, it is not necessary to remove the drive shaft. The first step is to get your rear wheel off the ground. The easiest way to do this is to put your bike on its center stand. However, not all bikes have center stands. If your bike does not have a center stand, you may want to buy a motorcycle lift (available from Pep-boys, or Harbor Freight). Once the rear wheel is off the ground, you can disconnect the brake linkage, and then remove the rear axle.

At this point there is nothing holding your rear wheel to the bike except for some meshing gears. Now you must lift and maneuver the rear wheel back and forth a little and eventually the final drive will work free. You will be able to slide the wheel toward the right side of the bike and then lower it to the ground.

In theory removing the rear wheel is that simple. In practice, the gears in the final drive can sometimes hold on quite tightly. This is particularly true if the rear wheel has not been removed for a long time or if your final drive is very worn. Usually being patient and persistent will pay off and you will be able to remove the rear wheel.

Sometimes it may prove easier to remove the entire wheel / final drive / drive shaft assembly first, and then separate them. In this case, the order of operations is different. Once you have the rear wheel off the ground, you can disconnect the rear brake linkage just as before. Next you can remove the four bolts that hold the drive shaft housing to the back of your crank case. Finally you can remove the rear axle and slide the wheel backwards the unmesh the drive shaft.

Regardless of which way you remove the rear wheel, it will be easier to put it back together by first attaching the drive shaft and final drive to the crank case, and then reinstall the wheel as described in the first method above.

Good Luck,
-Josh

The final drive assembly has to be unbolted from the swingarm and it is removed with the rear wheel. Once the assembly is off the bike, the axle can be removed and the final drive separated from the wheel.

if you have a constant whine that raises pitch the faster you go, you have improper backlash adjustment in the differential (rear end), if you have a whooping noise that whoops faster as you drive faster then you have a bad wheel bearing, both can be the result of low fluid level in the rear end.