Question about 2003 Yamaha YZ 125
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous I feel your pain you just dropped a ton of "DRACHMA" on rebuilding all or part of your engine and a couple of hours or days later it dies or locks up and you want me to tell you how much it will cost to fix. Unfortunately due to the magnitude of yesterday's solar flare the batteries in my crystal ball are dead and the circuitry in my mental telepathy headset was melted. Let me break it down for you.
1. Was the work done by an experienced trained professional technician or someone with good intentions that was not qualified to hold a wrench?
2. Was the proper break in procedure explicitly followed using the proper break in oil and changed as directed?
3. If your bike is used for off road abuse or competition there is no warranty in most cases.
4. If you have a street bike that had performance goodies installed no warranty in most cases.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Yamaha YZ125T1 Owner Service Manual
Yamaha YZ125T1 Parts Catalog
Yamaha YZ 125 2002
Yamaha YZ125 Wikipedia
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e
Posted on May 27, 2017
I had a simular problem with my 88 xr. It started out just running bad at higher speeds which had me thinking it was a carb or plug problem. I started changing plugs and had varing results which still had me guessing. So I started adjusting and jetting the carb. Still the same varing results. I suspected the CDI box so I tried to get one. (I live in Thailand, not the easiest thing.) The parts places produced several boxes that plugger in but gave me the results you just described. Good spark but no start, I also got one box that started the bike real good but would not accelerate. There is a built in timing in those CDI boxes. Just thought you might check this, By the way the original box of mine eventually failed completely and I was correct in my suspicions. I found a used one and it runs great.
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
SOURCE: 1987 yz125 clutch not working!
If you can see the actuator moving, but not disengaging the clutch, it usually means that the clutches are hanging up in the basket, or the actuator is bad and not releasing the clutches. The only way to tell is to take off the clutch cover and watch what happens when you pull the clutch.
Posted on Aug 12, 2009
With bike not running, rock the bike backwards and forwards and shift through all the gears. If it shifts all the way to fifth gear and back down, then the problem is not in the transmission. If you can't shift the transmission into any gear with the bike not running, just rocking it backwards and forwards, then you've got a problem with the transmission or the shift lever mechanism.
If it does shift but you still can't get it into gear something is strange. I've seen a clutch that the plates were locked together from sitting up, but it still would shift into gear. Of course, when it did shift into first gear, the bike would lurch forward and kill the engine. In this case, we had to disassemble the clutch pack and free the plates up. If you've had a new clutch put in the bike, it could simply need an adjustment. But, usually a new clutch will have a tendency to wear in and start to slip rather than drag. When a clutch causes the bike to lurch when put into gear or become difficult to find neutral with the engine running, it's dragging. I'd check the entire clutch adjustment to start with.
Slide the rubber boot on the clutch cable up, break the lock nut loose and turn the adjuster to make the cable as short as possible. Take the derby cover off the primary to gain access to the clutch release adjuster bolt. Break the large locknut loose, adjust the center bolt inward until you feel resistance. Back the screw back out and back in until you feel resistance again several times. You want to just take the slack out of the adjustment, not start to open the clutch up. Once you've turned the bolt in and feel the resistance, back the bolt back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn. Hold the bolt in this position and lock the lock nut again. Now, adjust the clutch cable back out until you get a freeplay of about an 1/8 inch at the lever. The clutch should be adjusted well enough to release at this point. If it doesn't, the clutch plates are probably stuck.
If the clutch plates are stuck, rock the bike back and forth and shift the bike into fourth or fifth gear. Now, while holding the clutch lever in, push the bike backwards and forwards far enough to "bump" the clutch. This may break the bond between the plates and free it up. If not, you'll have to disassemble the clutch in order to free it up. Good Luck.
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for taking the time to help me out, very informative. Thank you again."
SOURCE: replacing timing chain on ttr 90
There should be a timing mark on the magneto, rotate crank until line is visible thru inspection hole. This will position engine at Top Dead Centre. Have head complete with gaskets, valves, springs and camshft in place and position with camshaft chain in ready position, (you have to hold chain thru camchain opening) Place head on and bolt tight (no need to torque down yet) and pull camchain tight on opposite side to tensioner (fully loosened) and feed over camchain sprocket, take up tension with tensioner screw/bolt. This will have engine TDC with valves closed (as if to fire) rotate engine by hand and ensure tracking of camchain and tension is steady on chain. Valves should actuate in time. Have a close look on camchaim sprocket and a mark of some sort should show against corresponding mark on camshaft journal cuos.
Need the Manual: Down load from the link above, enter model, make year and download for free. (It's in four languages however) The relevent detail is in chapter 4-8 to 4-13. I think, Cheers.
Posted on May 02, 2010
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