Question about 2001 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

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First we do not understand what the start stop lower black spring loaded switch is for. not the red stop switch. the bike will turn over but not start. we can easily bump start the bikethe bike is a limited addition 2007 kawasaki ninja 636 platinum and red color, i could not put the right year in the lower column it is a 2007

Posted by gwebster on

  • gwebster Apr 27, 2009

    that is such an obvious choice. we do know that much. there is a problem besides that but i do appreciate getting back and trying your best



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Put the red start stop switch in start position and do the same for the black

Posted on Apr 26, 2009


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Motorcycle loses power and just revs when accelerating

the problem is not your tuning, it is your clutch. Motorcycle clutches are maintained as light as possible to stop heavy pressure on your fingers. often when you increase hp, you must increase your spring pressure on your clutch plates so the first thing is to adjust your clutch, if it is too tight it will slip under load (more load = more slip). second,clutches do wear out so if adjusting does not work you will have to inspect your clutch plates for wear and may even have to increase your spring pressure, this is a big job and you will need special gear to do it

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Red light is not turning on

I had the same problem. It came from a small mechanical malfunction in the switch inside the cooker.
To fix it I had to :
- unplug the cooker
- unscrew the 3 screws from the bottom
- open the mechanical switch (red and black plastic box inside the cooker)
- reassemble the switch (copper tabs and spring... this part needs some patiente and dexterity skills)
- close the cooker with the 3 screws

It seems to work again now. Sorry for my bad english... I hope my solution is still understandable.

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1 Answer

I am trying to replace an old spring loaded attic fan timer. The old time simply had a black line in and a black line out. There was both a white and red line capped off in the box along with a bare...

The timer is wired differently than the old spring-loaded timer.
This is because the timer has an electronic clock instead of a spring.
The electronic clock needs power just like an alarm clock.
The white wire powers the clock.

Here's the wiring.
Black-timer wire connects to Hot-wire-from-breaker
Red-timer connects to Load (attic fan)
White-timer connects to white Neutral
In absence of a Neutral, connect white-timer to bare ground.

If you have your black-timer and red-timer wires reversed, it might cause the symptoms you describe.
Simply reverse the black-timer and red-timer.

If you want to test your wires to make certain:
Remove timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Use ordinary tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away.
Power is ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
When tester lights up, that is hot-wire-from-breaker.
Now test hot-wire to each of the other wires (except ground)
When tester lights up, that is Neutral
Not every switch box will has a Neutral
In that case white-timer connects to ground

Nov 08, 2010 | GE 60minute Automatic ShutOff Timer Switch...

1 Answer

I have a ge digital wall switch mod 15265 My wall box only has a white (hot) and black (neutral) wires When I connect up the wires - black on switch to hot and both red & white on switch to neutral -...

I have test-wired your timer, and many other timers.
Your white and red together are causing the clicking.

Hot from breaker connects to timer-black.
Wire going Load (lights) connects to timer-red
Timer-white wire connects to Neutral inside box.
In your case, you don't have the neutral so connect the timer-white to bare ground wire.

add a comment if you need more help.

Nov 04, 2010 | Intermatic Inc. EJ500C Digital Wall Switch...

1 Answer

Electrical box has one red and one black wire and the switch has two balck wires and a green wire. How do I connect them?

If I understand correctly, you are replacing a switch that has a black and red wire?
And your new switch has 2 black wires + green wire

The green is color-code for ground, and it always connects to bare ground wire.
The switch wires are not color-coded (both are black) so they can connect to either of the two wires that came off old switch.
If switch does not operate, they try reversing the two black wires.

As a general rule, the wires inside your box are color-coded.
The color-code information says:
The black is the Hot from breaker box. This wire carries electricity from the breaker to the switch.
The red wire goes to Load (fan, light, motor). This wire carries electricity to the Load when you turn ON the switch.

Oct 23, 2010 | Solar Leviton Decora Sureslide Dimmer...

1 Answer

I am replacing an old intermatic model EJ341 spring wound timer with a GE15086 digital in wall timer. The old intermatic timer has two black wires from each side (I dont know which one is hot). Each of the...

GE 15086 is a 7-day programmable timer. It has more wires than spring-wound timer because clock motor runs on 120V circuit, just like ordinary electric clock. The clock on spring wound timer operated by a spring.

If I understand correctly, the old timer has 2 wires. One of these wires is the Hot wire ... and that wire will connect to GE timer black wire.
The other wire from old timer goes to Load ... and that wire will go to GE timer red wire.

Instructions on a lot of these timers say, it timer doesn't work, then reverse the two wires described above ... this is because timer only works when Timer black connects to Hot.

You can also turn on power and test each wire that came off old switch to bare ground wire. When tester lights up, that is Hot wire.

GE timer Green wire connects to bare ground wire.

Moving on to GE timer white wire. This wire is necessary for the clock to run. This wire connects to Neutral wire which is usually white. You can test for Neutral by testing Hot wire to each white wire in box ... when tester comes on, that is Neutral.

If you do not have a white Neutral wire, then connect GE timer white wire to bare ground wire. This is not code, but it will work fine until you hire electrician to run Neutral into box.

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1 Answer

How can i bypass the ingnition on my tw i got it

if you only want bike to run just unplug it and use the kill switch on the handle bar to stop motor. if you all electric to work put toggle switch on red and brown to turn electric on and off.

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1 Answer

I need a wiring diagram for a double switch

The following applies to the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT combination two switches with GFCI receptacle device ONLY.

Sorry for the long post, but the manufacturer's wiring diagram for that device is very difficult to follow and I want to make sure that you understand what's what. A basic description of how the device works may help.

At the top of the switch is where one connects the incoming ( HOT circuit from the circuit breaker or source) (LINE) wires. The black is connected to the HOT terminal and the white is connected to the WHITE terminal. That powers up the GFCI receptacle.

On the bottom of the switch there are two (LOAD) terminals (HOT and WHITE). This is where one connects _any_and _all_ loads which are to be GFCI protected, including any downstream receptacle outlets that one may want to GFCI protect.

The thing to understand about GFCI's is that BOTH the hot and the "neutral" white wires for the load(s) _must_ be connected to the LOAD connection on the GFCI in order for it to function correctly. Think two wires IN from the (LINE), two wires out to the (LOAD).

Also, at the bottom of the switch should be 3 wires which are permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are _not_ connected internally to anything related to the GFCI. The black wire is common and the red and yellow wires are the switch legs (pick one). In other words, individually, these wires function just like a regular switch. If one supplies 120 volts to the black (common) wire, when one switch is turned ON one or the other red or yellow wires (pick one, let's say the red wire) will be energized. When the other switch is turned ON the yellow wire will be energized. Understand that if the black (common) wire is not supplied with 120 volts you will _never_ power the red and/or yellow switch leg wires.

For equipment grounding, of course, the bare (or green) equipment grounding wires are all twisted together with 2 pigtails using a red or gray wire nut; one pigtail goes to the green screw on the switch and the other pigtail goes to the green screw on a metal box (if you have a metal box). There are other ways to do this, but that's the general idea.

OK, after all that, we're ready to wire the 1595-2SWT. Understand that there are many scenarios for wiring that device. I will describe the most common one.

The following assumes that you have only ONE circuit supplying 120 volts to the box. It also assumes that you have separate cables going to each switched load and that these loads are _NOT_ connected to any power source other than the one supplied by the switch itself. It's OK to have a 3-wire cable with ground (black, red, white, and bare) going to the loads. Additionally at this time we will also assume that there are no downstream receptacle(s).

After making all the equipment grounding connections;

LINE connections:
Connect the white wire from the incoming (LINE)120 volt cable from the breaker or source to the the white (LINE) terminal at the top of the switch. Connect the black wire from the incoming (LINE) (HOT) 120 volt cable to the HOT terminal at the top of the switch. You should now see that the wiring for GFCI receptacle outlet itself is accomplished.

LOAD connections:
The two white neutral wires in the box that are in the two outgoing cables that go to the loads are twisted together with a pigtail that is connected to the (LOAD) WHITE terminal at the bottom of the device. OPTIONALLY, if you have a 3-wire cable with ground (black, red, white, and bare), just connect the white wire to the (LOAD) White terminal at the bottom of the switch.

Here's where it gets tricky. Connect the black (common) wire that is permanently attached to the device to the (LOAD) HOT terminal at the bottom of the switch.

Do you see now that any loads connected to either the red or yellow wires will be switched _and_ GFCI protected? If not, please STOP what you are doing and post back here, or called a qualified electrician.

You may then connect the red wire to one of the switch legs and the yellow wire to the other switch leg.

Do you now also see that you can easily add a downstream receptacle to the deal by simply bringing a cable into the box from that downstream receptacle and connect it to the load side of the GFCI?

I hope this helps. BE SAFE and don't forget to turn OFF the circuit and test it to make sure it is OFF.

Feb 27, 2010 | Pass & Seymour / Legrand 1595-2SWT...

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