SOURCE: I'm trying to change the speedometer light on my Yamaha VStar
Perusal of a parts manual shows the bulbs to be in sockets with wires hooked to them which press into the outer back of the speedometer head, remove the offending socket (the one on the top, the other 4 are the function lamps I previously mentioned) by gently pulling it outward, the bulb will slide out for replacement.
Have fun and good luck.
SOURCE: 1100 yamaha 2003 vstar classic gas tank remove
1) Make sure your fuel petcock is closed, then detach the gas line coming off it (left underside of tank)
2) Remove the back seat (single acorn nut on rear fender)
3) Remove the front seat (two allen bolts at the back of seat)
4) There are two metric 12mm bolts under the front seat that hold the tank down. Remove them. The tank should be sitting loose on bike, but connected by some wires
5) Disconnect the white wiring harness under the bike. Tank is now totally free to remove.
6) Pull tank up and back at the same time, it will slide off the two rubber mounts at the front.
SOURCE: Where does the oil come out of a 2004 Yamaha 1100 VStar Classic
Oil drain plug is located near the bottom of the engine, left side toward the front. The oil filter element is located on the right side of the engine under the cover toward the front. Changing the oil filter usually requires removal of the front exhaust pipe. There is an aftermarket filter relocation kit that replaces the filter element with a spin on filter that mounts on the front of the bike.
SOURCE: how do i change rear wheel on 2007 yamaha vstar
I guess you mean to change the tire? To remove the wheel to change the brakes? To remove the wheel to replace it as it's been damaged in an accident? In all cases listed you still have to get the rear wheel off the motorcycle. On a good level hard surface clear of debrise and other things in the way you can put a floor jack under the right side, as close to the rear wheel as the exhaust and other partss allows. With the jack in place and jacked to where it's just starting to lift the bike, check to see that you can get to all the things that you'll need to do to get the wheel off. As the bike is lifted it'll lean over on the kickstand, and the rear wheel will raise off the ground. I usally do this so it the bike were to fall over it'll just go up against the wall. Put a blanket or pillow over the controls on the handle bars and even strape them on so they'll be there mif you need them to work. You'll need to raise the wheel at least 6 inches to get enough room to get it out so check to see if you can get it this high and then let it down and jack it back up to be sure you an do it. without troble dropping the bike as with the wheel removed it's a problem. If you an't seem to get the bike high enough with out risk of going over to get it high enough you can put a block ( a big one ( board)). under the kickstand and then jack it up. It's best to do all this with a halper, or a motorchle lift or jack that you might not have. A automotive transmisswion jack will work too. With the wheel just off the ground or still touching, loosen and remove the large axel bolt. Before you start you'll need to be sure that you have a wreanch big enough to do this as some of the newwer bikes don't come with tool kits that have the nessary wreanches. bikebandit.com will have a breakdown picture of your rear wheel assembly and exploded veiw. Pay attention to where all the washers and spaCERS GO AS PUTTING IT TOGETHER WITH OUT THEM ALL IN THE RIGHT SPOTS IS DANGEROUSE AND CAN PERMANLY DAMAGE THE HUB AND WHEEL. The breake dist or drum will have to be addessed. With the spacers and axel removed jack up the bike and the wheel will come out the bottom the break sort of slides off ( if it's disk) and the drum break can be left in after the arm and the rod are removed. The wheel just pulls out of the drive. and drops out.
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