Question about 2005 Suzuki RM-Z 250

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2005 Suzuki RM-Z 250 will not start when warm

My bike runs well at first but after running for some time I, would not start again. @

Posted by Anonymous on

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: need fuel mixture for 2005 rm 250

my bike runs best 40:1 but you can run it 32;1

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: my dr 250 1984 has low compression

your carb got stuck and it sounds like your rings are burnt out like u were running to high of an octane or something in your gas

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

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tombones

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Bike won't stay running

Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Install new stock NGK spark plugs.

Remove the CARBS from the bike.
FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire
CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT CARB one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT CARB one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both CARBS. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each CARB such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other CARB.

With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other CARB so that the slide on that CARB just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both CARBS begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.

Turn the idle screw on each CARB EXACTLY ONE HALF turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your CARBS This should fix the problem. One last and VERY IMPORTANT thing, Have a fire extinguisher handy and ready for use any time you work on or with he CARBS.

Please rate this solution. Thanks throttlejock!



Posted on Apr 22, 2009

Anonymous

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: my bike stopped running and was leaking coolant.

A coolant leak from the bottom of the cylinder indicates a blown base gasket. easy fix if you have a manual and some mechanical knowledge.
If you lost all you coolant, you may have also seized the piston.

you will require a top end gasket set, and most-likely a piston kit (Now is probably a good time to freshen that up anyway.)

If the engine was running good you probably did not get any coolant in your engine which is good.
-here is an idea of what is involved

dissasembly
(label everything and keep it nice and clean)

1) clean your bike good. You do not want dirt in the engine.
2) remove seat, fuel tank, rear subframe, and the pipe. This should give you easy access to everything.
3)drain whats left of your coolant into a bucket, the drain is usually one of the lower bolt holes on your impeller cover . A copper washer might give it away.
4) remove the carb from the boot going into your engine. the carb can stay connected hanging out of the way on its cables.
5) remove the cylinder head
6) remove any exhaust linkage covers if so equipped, and the screw holding the linkage. there may be a hole that will line up with a slot in the arm/clip. Use an appropriately sized drillbit to stop the thing from turning on you. Be careful, these are fragile (on Yamaha's anyway)
7)remove the 4 nuts holding the cylinder on. you should now be able to slide the cylinder off of the piston.

Inspection
& cleaning


Inspect the piston for any rough metal, scrapes or gouges. same with the cylinder. if damaged it will need to be replaced. Iron sleeved cylinders can be bored out 1 size and honed, nikasil can be cleaned of minor aluminum deposits with muriatic acid (don't get this on your skin) or will need to be replaced as a unit. Make sure there is no coolant inside the engine case. Crank should turn over smoothly with the bike in neutral.


Clean the old gasket off of the cases where the new base gasket will go. A plastic putty knife does wonders. make sure you get it all off, DO NOT use metal on the sealing surfaces. gasket remover can be used, but don't get any into the engine, and avoid using it where the bottom case halves are joined. Then stuff a rag in the case to keep it clean in the meantime.

Repeat the process for the cylinder, bottom and top if necessary.

Assembly
Check with your dealer for torque specs.
The piston kit should have instructions. Remove 1 circlip (don't lose it in the engine- (rag is in there right?). Slide the wrist pin out (long socket+ light tapping on it from the opposite side if you don't have a puller). CAUTION: I do not know if the wrist pin bearing is caged or not (check the new one when you get it) if it is not a caged bearing all the little roller pins will fall everywhere if you are not carefull. There is like 25 of them!
Now remove the piston, leaving just the rod. Prep the new piston (gap and install rings...line up gap with ring keeper pin...also, pay attention to orientation...some have an angle on the upper side of the ring. Install one of the circlips, rotate it so the gap does not line up with the hole, gap should be up or down not sideways. Install the wristpin bearing in the rod, slip on piston (usually arrow points to exhaust port...check instructions). now lube up the wristpin bearing and pin, slide pin through, and install the 2nd circlip.
Remove the rag, add a capfull or two of 2stroke into the bottom at this point. use a little break cleaner on a rag to make the gasket surface is clean.Throw down the new gasket. Line up ring in groves, Squeeze with one hand, and slide the cylinder down the piston. Once partway up, rotate the crank so the cylinder lines up with the studs. tighten nuts appropriately. Rotate it slow by the kickstart with the kilswitch held in the off position. Everything should be smooth. With the piston at the bottom throw a few capsfulls of oil in it to lubricate it as you rotate it through slowly. now clean the top, install topend gaskets and the nuts. Reassemble the bike in reverse order, make sure the carb is on tight, and don't forget to ADD COOLANT at proper ratio. Break in mix is gonna be 15:1 or 20:1 somwhere in there, for the first few hours riding anyway. Vary the throttle lots don't be afraid to run it though, just don't hold it WFO for more than a few seconds till everything gets happy. also, Especially when using FORGED pistons. Make sure the first time you start it, only let it idle, don't ride it. Let is get all the way up to temp, then let it cool completely. Do this heat cycle twice.
then continue normal break in.

I don't think I left anything out. Good luck.

Posted on May 20, 2009

tombones

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: suzuki bandit sticky gearbox

Stop riding the bike until you change the gearbox oil and oil filter. Yes, the oil is probably the problem. I am somewhat surprised that the pistons haven't seized yet. On the bottom or lower side of the gear box there will be an oil drain plug. Drain the oil and put in new oil. The oil fill hole is probably on the right side cover near the rear of the casing. The plug will probably have a dip stick to measure the oil level. Put in 10w40 motor oil. Ride the bike for a few hours then drain the oil to help flush out the dirt and grit built up in the gearbox. Put in fresh oil and a new oil filter if the bike has a filter.

Your bike is 18 years old and parts can be difficult to find. Your bike probably has an oil filter. If so, it desperately needs a new one. Google " vintage suzuki motorcycle parts " . I can not find a free service manual online. You may be able to buy one at www.repairmanuals.com

Posted on May 20, 2009

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1 Answer

A fterI warm up my 01 rm 250 my bike don't start


Possibly the choke is getting stuck internally, Even thoug the leaver may be in the closed (normal) position, it may be sticking internally. Try removing the choke and cleaning the passage with some carb cleaner, then replace the lever. The bike could run with a partially cloged choke but would be tough to start when warm due to too much fuel. Another thing to check, when it is hard to start, just after kicking it over a few times, remove the spark plug and see if it is wet with gas. My guess is that's it's soaked. Good luck.

Apr 04, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki RM 250

2 Answers

We have a rm 250 mx witha serial No of


if you have a look on the wheels, if they are original. there are numbers, it will be DOT then the date. for instance DOT4 8 05 this would mean it was a 06 bike. 03 would be 04 07 would be 08. hope this helps

Mar 07, 2010 | 2005 Suzuki RM 250

1 Answer

Starts good cold with choke runs bogy until fully


You might be too rich on the pilot jet. (Too large)
Run it for a minute with the choke on, then shut the choke off, and let it run with just a little thrttle till it's warm. If it doesn't "clear" up, your jetting may be off. (The pilot does idle) Pull the plug to see what color it is. Black is too rich. (Too large of a jet)

Dec 08, 2009 | 2005 Suzuki RM 250

1 Answer

I have a RM 250 2005. A spark plug only lasts for about 3 hours riding time and will no longer work. As soon as i put a new plug in i will get another 3 hours riding time. Its not fowling the plug but i...


You need to change the spark plug here say if it is a BR 8ES (NGK) then move on to BR 6ES and if that fail then move to BR 10ES..I use to do racing and its to do with playing with that until it is sorted..Now you may also have a faulty coil, faulty spark plug cap or something else here.It may not necessarily mean it is the spark plug.

Sep 21, 2009 | 2005 Suzuki RM 250

2 Answers

2005 Rmz250 wont start when hot.


YOUR BIKE HAS A POWER VALVE (DIAPHRAM FUEL PUMP) THAT GIVES A SHOT OF GAS EACH TIME THE THROTTLE IS TWISTED. WHEN THE BIKE IS HOT, IT FLOODS EASILY. DON'T HIT THE THROTTLE WHEN STARTING THE BIKE WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT.

Jul 31, 2009 | 2004 Suzuki RM-Z 250

1 Answer

Need fuel mixture for 2005 rm 250


my bike runs best 40:1 but you can run it 32;1

Mar 08, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 250

2 Answers

Suzuki rmz 250 2005


if its making a rapping noise its the valves ,possibly contacting the piston

Nov 14, 2008 | 2005 Suzuki RM-Z 250

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