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the hydraulic temperature sender is typically located near the hydraulic oil cooler or the hydraulic tank. It may be mounted on the side of the oil cooler or tank, or it may be mounted on a hose leading to or from the cooler or tank.
RADIATOR
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Drain engine cooling system as described.
3. Remove engine air cleaner.
4. Remove upper radiator hose from water bypass tube.
5. Remove radiator overflow hose from radiator and fan shroud.
6. Remove transmission oil cooler line from oil cooler inlet fitting.
7. Remove nuts retaining A/C condenser core to the radiator.
8. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring from the auxiliary electric cooling fan motors and the CCRM.
9. Raise vehicle on hoist.
10. Remove splash shield from lower radiator support and front sub-frame.
11. Remove lower radiator hose from radiator.
12. Remove oil transmission cooler line from oil cooler outlet fitting on radiator.
13. Remove retaining screws for power steering/transaxle oil cooler and position cooler aside.
14. Support fan shroud, radiator and A/C condenser core with a suitable jackstand. Remove lower radiator
support.
15. Position jackstand aside and carefully remove radiator and fan shroud.
16. Remove two retaining bolts for fan shroud at top of radiator and remove fan shroud from radiator.
17. Remove upper radiator hose from radiator.
NOTE: Loosen transmission oil cooler lines while securely holding radiator
connector with a back-up wrench.
NOTE: Loosen transmission oil cooler lines while securely holding radiator
connector with a back-up wrench.
18. Remove the radiator.
If it is in the radiator it should as the fittings are the only problem you are likely to encounter. If you are wondering if the cooling capability is affected consider this . Hot tranny oil has to be cooled in the radiator water and this heat makes the radiaror work hard.Why don"t you consider a external cooler. They keep the oil cooler as they are are running in the outside air. Ie air temp 30 deg C oil temp 150c+ water temp 85degC oil temp 150c. You can see that the tranny oil looses more heat and it will not overload the radiator capability
Without more info I will have to give you several things to look at. Typically during the hot months rotary units experience temperature shut downs due to the following. Dirty oil coolers. Blowing them out with air my help some but ideally they need to be washed using a degreaser solution. Location. during the hot months poor air flow/ air removal may let heat from the compressor build up in or under the cover or room. This hot air gets drawn in by the compressor and raises the compressor temperature. The cycle continues until the compressor shuts down on high air temp. Maintenance. Poor maintenance on rotary screw compressors leads to shut downs on high temp, high air temps then play havoc on dryers which causes moisture in the air system. Maintenance items that need replacing regularly ( about 2000 hrs) oil filter, air filter, Depending on type of oil used change 2000 to 8000 hrs, seperator @ 8000 hrs. Also the amont element will cause high temps if bad. It is located where the three oil lines come together. There should be 4 screws that hold the cover on. the cover also has a hose connected to it and located close to the oil cooler. This amont element acts like the thermostat in your car. it lets oil bypass the oil cooler or causes more oil to go thru the cooler. the cooler oil and bypass oil mixes and maintains a certain temp. air end temp should run about 195 F and injected temp about 165 F. hope this helps. if you can give more detailed info I can get you closer to your problem.
clean cooler fins and make sure the cooling fan comes on and it must get fresh air to run properly if it is in a small room without proper ventilation it will just keep circulating hot air and lastly if all the above are are met it maybe a bad temp sensor and make sure the unit has enough oil and the oil filter is not plugged and the thermo valve (thermostat) is not sticking best way to check this it to take the temp of each oil carrying pipe going into the cooler and the one leaving the cooler and see if there is a difference in temp using a ir temp meter
Danger! Voltage! Unplug first the device! You should open it, clean ALL with a dry brush and vacuum cleaner, take off the cooler with fan, clean them also on dry, then take a piece of soft paper, spray on it some alcohol and clean the cooler surface of the rests of the thermic paste, also clean the CPU surface. Then, put the fresh (new) thermical paste on the CPU, smudge it on the cooling surface and mount back the cooler with fan. Dont forget to connect the fan to its slot. The thermo paste you can find in a computer/ electronics accessories shop. The normal temperature should be not higher than 70C.
Mike, an EP 75 Should not use more than 3 to 5 parts per million of oil. Your oil issue sounds like you have a separator that needs replacing or a pluggedscavenge line. The separator is located in the oil tank. the scavenge line and orifice come from the bottom of the separator filter to and Thur the oil tank lid. then to the air end. In this line approx. 1ft from the lid should be the orifice. make sure its clean. your high air end temp can be from several different problems. 1- low oil level from separator or scavenge line plugged. 2- A plugged oil cooler. Dirt and debris pushed against the cooler by the the cooling fan. This needs to be cleaned using a pressure washer. Wash in the opposite direction of air flow. Be careful with the pressure washer. You can damage the cooler. Low oil level and dirty coolers are the most common problems when getting high air end discharge temp shutdowns. However you could also have a bad thermal valve located where the three cooler lines come together. you will have to remove one line and 4 bolts. inside is the thermal element. You may also have a bad HAT switch (high air end temperature). It is located in the end of the air end and simply unscrews. I do not know of any adjustment.
Check your trans fluid and inspect for leaks asap. If level is good and leaks are none to minimal, I would suggest a new trans cooler. Your current one could be clogged.
The fan should blow air into the heat sink. The warm air exits the
heat sink at both ends. (It might work the other way, haven't tried
it.)
When you have ice in your cooler, you know the thermo-electric element is working well--it's below freezing!
Ice builds up because there is water in the cooler. For example, in
humid weather, you open the cooler, some humid air gets in, and the
cooler temperature condenses the water. You have to empty this water,
either by tipping the cooler, or using a sponge.
You can easily defrost the cooler by unplugging it for an hour or so.
You know it's time to defrost when you hear the fan blades making a
racket because they're hitting something--a thick buildup of ice.
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