Trophy 900 ignition problem

Get your ride checked for error codes, as error codes will be more helpful in solving the problem. Generally when the car stalls out, the problem may rise due to:

1. Faulty fuel spark plugs


2. Faulty ignition coil

3. Faulty distributor

4. Clogged or damaged Air filter

5. And many more

So, it is advised to get the ride checked for error code and then update your answer.

I'm going to say the carburetors are fouled out, changing the fuel in the tank, lines and filter are a good start but the biggest problem is in the float bowls where the gas has evaporated leaving a nasty scale. The scale is chemical deposits left for the evaporating gas and just closes off and sticks the carburetors from functioning. If you have all the other components in making the engine run, ignition, compression and proper timing then the only other is fuel. The best way to fix the problem is to take the bike to a qualified mechanic and have the carbs cleaned and serviced. To prevent this problem I use a fuel stabilizer before putting my bike in storage generally I don't know when this is going to happen so the last three of four tanks of gas gets the treatment before going away for a Canadian winter. This stabilizer helps prevent the scale from building up and is a whole lot less expensive to buy then paying for repairs.

Do I assertain from your message that the battery is not charging? as if your battery is flat there will be no ignition. If the battery is being charged then check the fuel line filter. There is one in the tank inline with the fuel tap. It may be blocked and that moment or so with the engine at rest, may be enough to get you going again.
The battery voltage when fully charged and standing should be 12.8volts. A battery charging should be between 13.8volts and 14.5volts, no higher or else permanent damage to the battery will be done.
Hope this helps.

Its a carbonation problem or ignition problem.

Check for water in the spark plug well. 
Probably worth pulling plugs and checking/replacing them. 

Try this, and buy a meter that works,

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

To my knowledge, most bikes of this class would exhibit the problem you posted if they have loose/faulty:

• RUN or KILL engine switch;
• side stand switch;
• or as the mechanic thinks, the CDI.

You can try and verify by simulating the first two possibilities by riding on a straight road at regular speed and with no traffic.

• Accelerate as you normally would then switch off the RUN; do the same for the side stand, even a slight extend from rest position would kill the engine.

I doubt if it is fuel related as normally, there would be hesitation and starvation before finally stalling.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

First, I would check all the usual suspects. Roll over valve, fuel petcock, vacuum line to petcock, fuel cap vent, fuel filters(all three), coils, crank sensor, sparkplug HT wires and caps. All electical connections(side stand switch, clutch switch, ignition switch, engine cutoff switch). Battery condition. Wireing harness around the headstock(broken wires due to pushing/pulling on harness). Also check the plug for the alarm unit located in front of the battery box. Corosion in the plug can cause an intermitent short on the gray with green-dot wire that goes to the Igniter(there is a wire that loops around on the back side of the plug). Check all these things before throwing money at it. Also, the Igniter can be tested at a Triumph dealer. Baxter Cycle (www.baxtercycle.com) would be a good source for used parts from breakers. I've heard of someone that has rebuilt Igniters to swap, but I'll have to search for them again, I think in the UK or Europe. Hope this helps.

I think you would be better of checking the ignition pick-up located on the right side engine cover. you may want consider searching for info on the ignition pickup, as apparently it is a weak link on these engines. That was the first thing i repalced when i got got mine as it had sat for a while.