Oil seal forcella italia

remove the dust cover, get a watchmakers eye glass and you will be able to rd the sizes. good luck.

remove fork from bike remove dust cap,remove circlip with flat screwdriver,prize the oil seal out with pointed driver,do not scratch the chrome stanchion,slide seal off the fork,oil the fork then slide new seal onto fork, tape the top of fork to protect seal,it saves dismantling the forks and time.

You need prop the bike up on front and rear stands. The fron stand needs to be the type that holds the bike up by the headtube. Remove brake calipers, front wheel, fender. Then loosen the upper and lower triple clamps. Loosen the clip ons. But before loosening the lower triple, loosen the fork tube top caps.

Drop out the legs. take off the top caps, pour out the oild, and compress the spring. I'd use a fork compressor, race tech makes a nice one. Loosen the top cap from the damping rod. Remove the top cap then pump out the rest of the oil from the damper.

Next, remove the outer dust seal. Remove circlip. Then you need to just extend the fork several times quickly to "bang" out the oil seal and bushings.

The outer bushings, if they look good, need to be gently pryed off using a thin flat head screw driver in the **** of the bushing. Same with the inner bushing. Now the oil seal, metal washer and circlip all come out together. Remember the order.

Lube up the new seals with fresh oil. put back on the fork lowers in the same order they were taken off. Replace bushings at the same time if there's any brass showing. I usually do it any way since the seals seem to go at the same rate as the bushings for me.

Once back together, seat the seals. There's a tool for this, but I usually **** the old oil seal so I can get it on the lower fork tube between the new oil seal and new dust seal. and I quickly compress (bang) the fork a few times until the groove on the upper leg is showing so the circlip will lock back on. Probably not recommended but I haven't ruined a dust seal in about 20 years now.

Fill fork with proper oil viscosity and volume (don't remember how much or weight for zx7s). cycle the damper about 20 times to make sure they're full of oil too. insert spring, re-compress, lock on top cap to damping rod. screw on top cap. reassemble fork on bike. Remember to torque the top cap with the top triple clamp loose otherwise the caps can bind.

Your front fork seal are bad and need to be replaced.
When you loose fork oil, your loosing suspension dampening and only riding on the springs.(POGO)

Replace both front fork seals and dust caps, and put same amount of fork fluid in both forks.

I bought my seals and caps for $30 on ebay, and then took my forks off my bike and took them to a shop and they charged me $75 to do the job.

You can take them the whole bike and they will charge $100 - $150 including parts to do the job.

no buddy this is just a decal i would go on ebay to purchase the seals alot cheaper than from manufactures make sure you get the dust seals and oil seals

Each fork has an outer dust seal, and an inner seal inside of that. Dirt gets between the seal lip and the fork slider and causes the oil to escape. The fix is to have them (Both sides) replaced. You need a fork seal driver tool (Size specific for the size of the fork) and something to measure out the oil amount. It's not an easy job, if you have never done it. Also... if the oil has never been changed, it's due.

hi,replacing the seal is quite easy,although it will sound complicated,jack up or lift the bike off the ground so that the front wheel is in the air(about 12-14 inches should be enough,remove the front wheel from the bike,remove each fork leg,this is done by undoing the bolts(4 on each leg)the front fork is quite easy to work on just do one at a time,remove the dust cover from the top of the staunchion tube(larger diameter tube),beneath that dust cover you should see a retaining clip that holds the seal in place,remove the retaining clip(and dont lose it),the seal is now ready to remove,the easiest way that i know to do this is to force a screwdriver through the body of the seal,you may need to hit the screwdriver with a hammer as some seal have a tin backing plate,put a hole through the seal on each side of the fork leg taking care not to damage the chrome of the fork leg,then use the screwdriver to lever the seal out of the fork leg,to reinstall the new seal,put a smear of grease or oil around the outside of the new seal,slide the new seal down the fork leg and seat it squarely into the fork tube,very carefully tap the new seal into place being very carefull not to damage the outer surface,i use a small piece of dowell type timber to do this as the wood doesnt damage the seal surface,i use a small ballpeen hammer to tap the wooden dowell,once you have the seal seated down the tube you should be able to see the groove for the retaining clip,reinstall the retaining clip making sure it is seated corectly,replace the dust cover,if you are going to replce the fork oil or top it up do this once the fork leg is back in the bike,repeat the whole procedure for the other fork leg,once you have done the fork seals reinslall the fork legs back into the bike and refit the front wheel,to top up the oil in each leg,simply undo the large cap on the end of the fork leg,you may have to remove the handlebars to do this,be carefull as the cap will be spring loaded and can easily fly off if you are not ready for it,top up or fill with the correct weight oil for your bike(normally a 10w oil),check with your local honda agent for the correct quantity,normally between 400-500 mls,this all sounds quite complicated but is actually quite easy and can be done with a minimal of tools,each fork shold take about 1/2 hr to do...hope this is a help to you

No special tools other than maybe an air-impact whench to remove the Allen bolts in the bottom of the fork sliders. These hold the botom of the metering rods into the forks and will spin if you don't have Honda's special tool which fits down the inside of the fork tube. Air wrench spins them off no problem.

V65 Sabre has fule filter behind battery and fule shutoff valve under seat.

Loosen upper triple-clamp pinch bolt before trying to remove fork cap.

Drain oil out of fork, then remove axle and access the metering rod holder bolt at the bottom inside the area whre the axles goes. Use an air wrench and appropriate Allen bit.

Remove fork cap, being careful of the spring pressure.

Remove fork from bike and take out spring and metering rod. Pry dust seal out of fork slider and use snap-ring pliers to remove retainer from beneath dust seal. Use fork tube to hammer seal and slider bushing out of fork slider.

Replace seal and use old seal to cushion it. Make a fork seal driver from split PVC pipe and hammer seal and slider bushing back in. Remove old seal and replace retainer clip. Install dust seal.

Reinstall on bike and install spring. With bike properly supported, stand on pegs and use ratchet, extension and socket to apply pressure to spring and thread cap carefully onto top of fork tube. Reinstall metering rod holder bolt in bottom of fork using thread-locker and air-wrench. Don't over-tighten; just ue high speed to conteract tendency of metering rod to spin inside slider.

Remove fork cap again and fill to appropriate level with 5 weight fork oil (Pro Honda SS-7 or equivalent). Use turkey-baster to remove excess oil to proper level (5 1/2 to 7 inches fully compressed depending on damping quality desired).

replace the seals

i would do the same as the other post has said, but i would use the old seal to drive the new seal in with a rubber mallet that way you cant damage the fork.