Question about 2006 kawasaki KX 250 F

1 Answer

I have spent the better part of the day trying to bleed the brakes on my bike. I have rebuilt the master cylinder and cleaned every thing thoroughly. I have pumped the lever 2to3 thousand times. 20 to 50 at a time then using the bleeder valve. I CAN NOT get the pressure to build in the master cylinder. can anyone help?

Posted by kelly frock on


1 Answer


You have to open any bleeder valve first

Then you slowly push out the air & brake fluid

There is never any pumping to be done on a car
or any product in order to bleed any fluid.

All your doing is getting out the air

Then when the system is closed there is no pumping
to create a high hydraulic pressure ,just a gentle application
of the brake or clutch

Posted on Sep 01, 2013


2 Related Answers


  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: bleeding front brakes

Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008



  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: bleeding front brakes

Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.

All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.

First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

Brake pressure issue

Wow, that's different. There are only a few things left to try. To keep from buying unneeded parts first try bleeding this way one more time.

Do the longest brakeline first, then next longest, until you work your way to the shortest line. Then try it.

Now for a difference when starting the engine, your Brake booster is working. You should have a Reserve of Vacuum in the booster for at least one pedal depression. If you don't, the Booster valve or Booster Bladder is bad.

The Booster valve is relatively cheap. Test the booster bladder; you do not want to use a chemical. With the engine running, some people will use a torch propane tank with a rubber hose on it to direct propane around the Brake booster. The propane will cause the engine RPM to change indicating a bad bladder. Propane is safe in small amounts and was used to set air/mix in the early days of Pollution control.

The Master cylinder could have pulled in sediment when the old parts were removed from the system. Now it is hanging up.

For bleeding brakes there are different methods. I prefer to draw fluid with a hand Vacuum pump like a Mighty Vac. The advantages are it is less messy and far more controllable. Pumping a defective Master cylinder may not work for you. Power bleeding with a Canister and Master cylinder cap adapter will be better than relying on the Master cylinder alone. Gravity bleeding works, but may not work with a bad Master cylinder leaking more fluid in one chamber than the other.

Check for hose twists in the rubber lines you replaced. The ridges on the hoses should be parallel when you hang the caliper.

Please rate my info and let me know the final solution.

Jan 25, 2013 | 1996 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

1999 Yamaha Kodiak Front Disc Brake - Rebuilt master cylinder with new parts. Replaced orings on piston in front caliper and bleed brakes using new fluid. The piston will not retract. What is proble

The brake hose is clogged. When under pressure from applying breaks, the piston is forced tight to the rotor. When released the fluid will not return through the hose because there is no real pressure. Replace the hose.

Jul 31, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 2002 yamaha yz250 has been sitting for maybe four to five years and i haven't touched anything that has to do with the brakes only cleaned out the carb, but the other day i took it out riding and...

Did you bleed the air out of the rear master cylinder and brake line? Be sure the master cylinder has brake fluid and don't let it get too low while bleeding the brake. Bleed the master cylinder first, then the wheel caliper. tombones49_196.gif

Jun 25, 2011 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

1 Answer

On really warm days the front brakes on my 1976 Kawasaki 900 LTD begin to tighten and the brakes apply. It gets to tight that I have to pull over and bleed the pressure off. I have rebuilt the master...

make sure the piston in the master is going all the way back past the bleed orifice, if it ddoesn't go all the way back the system willl build pressure through heat

Apr 26, 2011 | 1975 kawasaki Z1B

2 Answers

HARLEY- 02 DYNA WIDE GLIDE front brake bleeding problem master rebuilt caliper also lever builds preasure but when bike is started and moved the lever bottoms out NO BRAKES

Starting the bike has effect on the front brakes and I doubt moving the bike does either. The problem sounds like you're using an improper procedure to bleed the brakes.

First, fill the front master cylinder reservoir with the proper type of brake fluid. Then, bleed the master cylinder. Use this EXACT procedure. Squeeze the lever and hold it. Then loosen the line from the front master cylinder and allow the pressure to bleed off. Release the brake lever. Repeat this procedure again. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during any part of this bleeding process.

Then move to the caliper bleeder valve. Squeeze and hold the brake lever, open the bleeder valve and bleed off the pressure, close the valve, release the lever and allow the master cylinder to refill. Repeat until you get a full firm brake lever. Top of the master cylinder. Wait a few minutes and test the brakes.

If you cannot get anything to work out, look in the very bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and you'll two holes. One is relatively large and the other is very small. Using a small drill bit or a strand of wire, make sure the small hole is open. I've seen trash plug this hole and the brakes not work correctly. DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF BRAKE FLUID. The correct brake fluid to use is printed on top of the reservior top.

Make sure you test the brakes before riding the bike, improper brake servicing can lead to serious injury or death.

Good Luck

Oct 23, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

I have replaced the brakes, rotors, calipers and master cylinder on a 2003 dodge durango, i bench bleed the master cylinder, and have spent 2 days now bleeding the brakes, only to end up with a spongy...

sorry you went thru all of that... those vehicles have an issue with power brake boosters. one more thing to replace...Or, you still have air in the system...

Jul 10, 2010 | 2003 Dodge Durango

2 Answers

Brakes squishy no leak

Mushy / squishy brakes are usually caused by the brake master cylinder seals failing. You can buy a rebuild kit or a re-built replacement master cylinder. I would recommend the rebuilt master cylinder as all the detail work has already been accomplished and it is not a huge expense. The key is to make sure that your use a bleeder kit to "Pre-bleed" the master kit before installation. Your making sure that the master cylinder is free of air before installation. If you instal it with air in the system it wil take you the better part of a quart of brake fluid to bleed the whole brake system via the wheel cylinders. What will happen is after you install the master cylinder the brakes would still be mushy and until you got the residual air out of all of the lines it would appear and act just like it did before you changed the master cylinder.

Thanks for using FixYa,


Jun 03, 2010 | 2000 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I have rgv 250 n ive put some 6 pot tokico,s on with standard master cyl brakes good but feels not right but will a radial master cyl of a r6 o8 be mutch better has anybody done this feels like the wrong...

It's possible that the brake system is not thoroughly bled. It can take a lot of work to completely bleed a system after it's been disassembled. I would recommend re-bleeding, making sure to bleed at all the banjo bolts (for each banjo bolt, pump and hold the lever, crack the bolt open 1/4 turn, and then retorque while holding the lever down -- repeat for each banjo). You can also tap the calipers, lines, and master cylinder with a rubber mallet or screwdriver handle while bleeding. If you have access to a pressure bleeder, I would recommend using it, as this will do the job faster.

However, it's also possible your master cylinder is not a proper match for your calipers. Different master cylinders have various bore diameters and stroke lengths which affect feel and performance.

I'm sure it goes without saying that your brakes are a critical component of your bike. Making modifications you are unsure of can lead to life threatening failures. I would not recommend swapping brake components unless you are sure that the components you are installing are compatible with each other and your bike.

Sep 29, 2009 | 1992 Suzuki RGV 250 N

1 Answer

Brake pedal won't return.

There could be a couple reasons for this. First thing to check is your return spring, is it still there and attached properly? Next thing to check is your master cylinder pressure release. Loosen the bleed nipple on the rear caliper. Does the brake release now? If so, your master cylinder has some debris clogging the fluid return passageway. Remove and clean it. If the brake still does not release after opening the bleed nipple, at least one of your caliper pistons is binding. Remove the rear caliper and the brake pads. Now press the pedal and force the pistons out. Looses the bleed nipple and attempt to press the pistons back into place. They should move smoothly when you apply firm pressure. Clean the caliper thoroughly. If you have a rebuild kit for the caliper this is a good time to rebuild it. After cleaning, put it back together, bleed the brakes and test again. It is normal for disk brakes to drag SLIGHTLY on the rotor, but they should not stop a free spinning wheel in less than a coupld revolutions when spun by hand.

Feb 15, 2009 | 2000 Buell Blast

1 Answer

2003 town and country brake problem

Did your mechanic use a DRB III or equivalent scanner before performing the bleeding procedure after installing the master cylinder? This is a requirement by the manufacturer (Chrysler) when bleeding the brake system.

Jan 16, 2009 | 2003 Chrysler Town & Country

Not finding what you are looking for?
2006 kawasaki KX 250 F Logo

105 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top kawasaki Experts

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

6339 Answers


Level 3 Expert

85239 Answers

Gino Cussen
Gino Cussen

Level 2 Expert

217 Answers

Are you a kawasaki Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides