When I wind the bike out, the engine is giving me 100% but the bike isn't moving at 100%. It feels like the clutch isn't fully disengaged, but it's a hydraulic clutch and I'm really unfamiliar with it. PLEASE HELP!
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First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..
Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me.. Suzuki RM80 250 89 95
what does the rebuild manual say about ajustment or troublshootn--clymer books are best--usually at engine area a fillups driver moves the screw in/out on clutch housing--simple details unless clutch is bad
In the past when I adjusted the clutch on my Virago, I would have the bike in gear...with engine off, make sure pulling in the clutch allows the bike to roll..... Then with the engine running I would adjust for the point at which the clutch would begin to engage upon release. Make sure when released, the clutch is fully engaged and isn't slipping.
I'm not femiliar with your bike. But a bike is a bike when it comes to some problems, and yours is not disengaging the clutch. So, if its hydrolic than you need to bleed the air out of ituntil you lever feels solid but with just a littls free play. Same thing if it's a cable. Adjust it all the way tight , so that the clutch fully disengages then back it off until there is alittle free play in the lever. You need to be able to squeeze the clutch with the bike on the stand and have the rear wheel stop turning. Don't ride it any other way or you'll toast your gear box. Not cheap. Happy trails.
make sure you have proper amount oil in your gear box, i would change it since is 1987, check the cable, over time it things tend to stretch, squeeze the clutch handle fully, check if it pulling the clutch arm fully, if its not lift fully it will be also hard to engage and disengage the gears. low oil, dirty oil gives the gear very little lubrication will also cause the problems.
Bleed your slave cylinder on the sprocket cover and refill the hydraulic fluid. If you have any leaks you will get air in the system and it will not fully disengage the clutch. As for the 750, they have cable clutches and you just need to adjust the slack of the cable.