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05' daytona 650. the stator cover got cracked and set with the cover off all winter. i replaced the cover and oil, and charged the battery. It started up ok but the check engine light is on and the battery died while the bike was off in a matter of 3 hours. the local shop said the battery was good I'm reading 13.3 volts dc at about 2k/rpms(idle). if i start it and pull the positive cable the bike drops rpm's and sputters for a minute or so then dies. any ideas? thank you in advance.
when you say alternator do you mean the stator itself, the coil on the stator cover or the rectifier/regulator(if those are the same thing), and how do i check those? sorry but I'm just a little new at working on bikes. when you say alternator do you mean the stator itself, the coil on the stator cover or the rectifier/regulator(if those are the same thing), and how do i check those? sorry but I'm just a little new at working on bikes.
Re: 05' daytona 650. the stator cover got cracked and...
Dear daytona 500 your battery should test 12.7 volts with the engine turned off. your alt should test14.2 volts at fast idle. 13.3 volts means your alt is not putting out. jim
to test your alternator output simply connect the volt meter to the battery posts and take a reading. you will have to fast idle to get a accurate reading should read 14.2 volts jimto test your alternator output simply connect the volt meter to the battery posts and take a reading. you will have to fast idle to get a accurate reading should read 14.2 volts jim
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I have a good idea, this is if you change the batt and it did not charge try with a volt meter re on the + being red lead B- being minus set to dc volt set to 20 volt check charging system this being 14+ volt is the reading to getand also rev engine to moderet rpmto see if it drop slow or fastif it drops to 12 and below may be reg, now find the three like wire to the reg test for A/C volt 65 and higher at 5000 RPM that will also indecate reg that is if there are no burnt wire which will be see when you go to check the voltage readings. Have fun
Your stator is bolted into the left engine cover , You will need a stator and a gasket. Simply drain your oil into a clean container so it can be put back in later, unplug the stator from the harness behind the side cover, unbolt the left side cover of the engine, gently tap on it and pull it off, the stator in in the cover and can now be unbolted and replaced. If your bike battery slowly loses it's charge over a weks time , you may have a weak magnet on the flywheel. Very hard to diagnose, all you can do is replace the fly wheel if the new stator does not fix a slow discharge problem.
useing a multimeter set to d.c check your charge at the battery whith out the motor running it should read above 12 volts determine the voltage stored in the battery with the meter stil conected hit the start button if the meter shows a dramatic drop in voltage its almost certain that the battery is shot howevwer if the voltage does not drop & it wont start bump start it conect the meter still set on dc increase the revs asyou do this the voltage should climb to 13.50 if it does & maintains 13.50 to 13.65 the chargeing system can be declared ok & you only need replace the battery however if it goes above 14 volts the voltage regulator is faulty & cooking the battery so you will need to replace both
http://www.british-customs.com/
if they don't have i'll eat my shoe they have never let me down on parts for triumph, the only thing that they couldn't get me was vavle guides for a 66 bonnie custom i'm biulding for a customer at our shop. However they did know who to call to get them.
Ride safe
Mark
C.C. Motorsports
Usually we start with the regulator as it is the less costly and easiest to replace of the two. Additionally replacing the stator and regular in pairs is not a bad idea...unless you happen to purchase a defective one. Sorry don't have better news.
Sounds to me that your battery my be slight low on charge, try charging it up. Running the bike with a low battery can cause havoc with the stator as well as the pulse coil, those are two things you don't want to be replacing. Hopefully this helps you out.
when you say alternator do you mean the stator itself, the coil on the stator cover or the rectifier/regulator(if those are the same thing), and how do i check those? sorry but I'm just a little new at working on bikes.
it doesn't make 14v until around 5k rpms
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