I have replaced fork seals

To change the fork seals in a 2004 FXD you will need to remove the forks from the bike and then drain the oil and then remove the dust seal and the retaining ring and spacer from the top of the fork and then remove the Allen head screw from the bottom of the fork to release the fork tube and then using the fork tube like a slide hammer drive the upper bushing, seal and spacer out the top of the slider. While apart you should also inspect the rings and bushings etc. You will need a special seal driver to reinstall the upper bushing, seal and spacer and then you will need to accurately refill the fluid to the correct level/amount. FXD/FXDL uses 10.6 OZ or 0.31 cc of Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) and the level measurement is 6.69 inches or 169.9 mm. Be very careful and accurate with the oil level as too much or too little will adversely affect the function, ride and steering of the bike. It is best to use a fork oil level gauge and set it so that the ring will sit 6.69 inches or 169.9 mm from the end of the tube and secure it at that position. If your gauge has a plunger cylinder on it push the plunger on the cylinder all the way in and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider, insert the tube until the ring rests flat on top of the fork tube and pull the plunger out to suck up excess oil from the fork tube. If no oil is sucked up into the gauge cylinder you need to add more oil until there is enough excess oil in the fork tube to have an excess amount sucked out of the fork tube. In this manner the gauges and cylinder will accurately set the fork oil level. If you have a vacuum operated gauge such as with a tool that attaches to a vacuum brake bleeder you will set the tool at 6.69 inches or 169.9mm as with the other type of tool and operate it the same way to remove excess oil to a precise and accurate specified fork oil level which is very important as an incorrect oil level can adversely affect motorcycle handling.

To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary.

To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is.

a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and
b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm)
THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly.

To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.

Remove front wheel, brake calliper etc . Undo top and bottom yoke pinch bolts and slide out fork leg. Clamp chrome tube in a soft jawed vice and remove top nut carefully as it is under some load and will fly away, (but its not too much you can hold it with your hand). Tip out remaining oil slowly so as to not loose spacer on top of main fork spring. Clamp lower aluminium leg in vice by calliper mounts and remove allen screw in extreme end (if the wheel spindle was in you couldnt see it) This is the only part that might be a problem as the inner end may turn. An impact wrench may help or if not a simple broom handle shoved up the other end is often enough. Once this bolt is removed the leg will split. Now lever out the dust cover to reveal the wire circlip holding in the fork seal. Remove the clip and lever out carefully the old fork seal. Fit new seal using a large socket and mallet or something similar and reassemble in reverse order, not forgetting to add correct amount of new fork oil.

First of all do not add oil to your front forks with out draining them first. If you over fill your forks with oil you will damage your forks. To change your oil in your forks, first center stand the bike and lift the front wheel by putting a jack under the motor. Remove the front wheel and axle and put a pie tin under the fork tube. Reach up into the bottom of the fork tube with a hex key and loosen the screw but do not remove. Now take the air pressure cross over tube off, this will allow you to unscrew the fork tops( On some bikes you may have to put a towel on the tank and unbolt the handle bars to get them out of the way.). Pull the screws out of the bottom of the forks and gently pull down the oil should come out now. If you need new fork seals take the lower tubes off and replace(You may need to take off the fender and hang the calipers with wires.). Turn the lowers over and dump out the oil and reinstall fork lowers. Snug up screws and sealing washers on the bottom of forks you can not tighten till you put on fork tops. Now pour in measured amount of oil, again do not over fill. Put on fork tops and air crossover tube. Now tighten screws on bottom of fork. Finish reassembling bike.

no buddy this is just a decal i would go on ebay to purchase the seals alot cheaper than from manufactures make sure you get the dust seals and oil seals

On the top and bottom parts of the triple tree either both or one will have bolts. First take the fender off. Take the front tire off. Loosen the bolts on the triple tree. They should slide down. If not you have to get a rubber mallet and tap on the top of the fork and twist the fork as you are doing this. Once it is out, pull the dust seal off the top of the lower fork. There will be a clip inside, take the clip off drain the oil out of the top or bottom depending on how the forks are made. Push the fork tube down into the lower fork slightly, pull both apart with a firm tug and they should separate.

Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?

What is your question?

You just needed to.... remove front wheel, support bike on something, undo retaining bolts on forks, tap out fork legs from the top, using a soft mallet. Take out fork seals with a seal pick, (halfords) Replace old seal with new seals, in reverse order) sliding over the fork leg, tapping into place. Then put replace forks etc in reverse order (from dissassembly). Hope this helps

go here for a parts breakdown
remove your forks and there is a allen screw in the bottom to hold the forks together . when you reassemble make sure you put the corredt weight and amount of fork oil.
later paul