Question about 1984 BMW K 100

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I have replaced fork seals

I need to know how to replace fork oil
there is a flat screw at the top of fork
with an allen screw in the center
also how much oil do i put in thanks

Posted by ateddy1 on

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    Need to replace the bent handle of a manure fork that has a flat tag that needs to insert into the handle.

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  • 52 Answers

Hi,
I am assuming the old oil is drained.
Once the tops are opened, lift the bike onto the center stand which will make the forks extend. Refill through the top of the fork with 12 oz of fork oil. The manual states that you must use oil with a weight of approximately SAE 3, and the amount going in needs to be equal in each fork.
Hope this helps

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

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I have the front of my 2007 Heriage Classic taken apart, but can't take out the screws on the bottom of the forks. What size allen wrench do I need? The wrnches in my set are either too big or l


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First of all do not add oil to your front forks with out draining them first. If you over fill your forks with oil you will damage your forks. To change your oil in your forks, first center stand the bike and lift the front wheel by putting a jack under the motor. Remove the front wheel and axle and put a pie tin under the fork tube. Reach up into the bottom of the fork tube with a hex key and loosen the screw but do not remove. Now take the air pressure cross over tube off, this will allow you to unscrew the fork tops( On some bikes you may have to put a towel on the tank and unbolt the handle bars to get them out of the way.). Pull the screws out of the bottom of the forks and gently pull down the oil should come out now. If you need new fork seals take the lower tubes off and replace(You may need to take off the fender and hang the calipers with wires.). Turn the lowers over and dump out the oil and reinstall fork lowers. Snug up screws and sealing washers on the bottom of forks you can not tighten till you put on fork tops. Now pour in measured amount of oil, again do not over fill. Put on fork tops and air crossover tube. Now tighten screws on bottom of fork. Finish reassembling bike.

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It is easiest to take apart your forks with them mounted on the bike. put the bike on the center stand. Remove the front wheel. Unbolt the calipers and hang with wire. Unbolt the fender and remove. Now reach up into the hole in the bottom of the fork with a hex key/allen wrench and loosen the socket bolts but do not remove. Now unbolt the handle bars and rest on a towel (just move back out of the way, you should not need to unhook everything) Remove the air crossover tube and unscrew the fork tops. Be careful some fork tops are under spring pressure. Now put a pan under the fork tube and finish removing the socket bolt and sealing washer , oil will come out. You should now be able to slide the lower tube off the upper tube. You will probably need a seal removal tool. Reassembly is reverse of this, remember to snug the socket bolt and sealing washer, then add measured amount of oil. Socket bolt can only be tightened after top cap has been put back on with spring tension..

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Fork seals gone on honda nsr 125


280 ml on the older models, and 320ml on the newer models.
1. you need to elevate the bike with a jack or something so the front wheel is off the ground.
2. undo the Allen bolt on the side of the fork, then proceed to take the main wheel socket bolt/bar out, so the the wheel comes off, the speedo drive will come off leave that hanging around lol.
3. take of the socket bolts attaching the brake caliper to the fork, dont leave it hanging secure it somewhere, so you dont damage the brake cable tube.
4.take handle bars off, one allen bolt on each one.
5. then unscrew the the 2 socket bolts that hold the folks on, if you follow the folks down you will see 2 socket bolts take them out. do the same on other folk.
6.then pull one folk at a time down, maybe tap it if its hard. and you will have the folk out in your hands.
7.unscrew the big socket bolt at the top of the folk out, but apply pressure, sometimes the bolt will fly off, so be careful.
8. take the big long plastic tube out along with the spring, and tip the folk upside down and pump it to get most of the oil out.
9.then go to the bottom of the folk and undo the allen bolt, when its moving around freely and not coming out put the spring in and push down and twist the allen bolt should come straight out.
10.pump it a few times and then you take the folk tube out completely and give everything a clean, it will be stiff when you get it near the top so get momentum and yank hard and it will pop out.
11. then the bottom pit of the folk that the tube goes into, if you look into it you will see the oil seal, take the cur-clip out and it should come out pretty easily.
12 give the folk tubes a rub down with fine sandpaper say 1000 grain or 800 grain, to get rid of little bumps, look carefully feel it with your hand, to see if theres any pitting, you will be able to see it, thats not good but make sure its not on the part of the tube which goes up and down the oil seal when compressed down.
13.put folk tube back in the bottom of the folk, then put spring in puch down tighten allen bolt.
14.put new oil seal on and push it down its best to use a oil seal hammer tool thingy, but if your careful you can tap it down with a hammer and something small and flat at the bottom, i used a bolt, worked well.
careful dont damage the oil seal.
15. put cur -clip back in, it should click, make sure its on the closest ridge to the oil seal.
16. put 280 ml, of oil or if you have a newer model 320ml, of fork oil in the tube, pump it a few times to get air out and oil to the bottom chamber.
17. put the spring back in and the long plastic tube, and put the top bolt on for now not to lose not to tight.
18. attach the folk to the bike again and same with the other one, make sure you align the little ridge on the top of the folk, with the top of the steering bar, the top steering the bar the folk go into last. its late lol getting confused lol. oh and when y0ou align make sure you tighten the bolts holding the folk in place.
19.then put the steering grips/bars back on and then tighten the top bolt tight cant remember the torque setting. then you know everythign from there. phew

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3 Answers

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2 Answers

How do i change fork seals on a Kawasaki gt 550 89' and or chec and add oil


Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?


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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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go here for a parts breakdown
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later paul

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