Question about 1988 Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX

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1994 Virago 535 wont start, and the headlight wont turn on?

I noticed sometimes while riding the headlight and taillight on my Virago will sometimes turn off and then come back on a few minutes later. Now the headlight will not come on and the bike wont start. All the other lights work. I have checked the fuses and charged the battery?

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5 Related Answers

Fabrice Wolters

  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: I was riding my '94 Virago 535 when it made a loud

Yes, the starter clutches sometimes get stuck on those bikes.
Then the starter turns at very high speeds and get broken.
Remove the starter from the engine ( that's an easy job )
Hold the starter in a bankwrench and connect a 12V battery to it. If the starter turns, he is OK, if not, replace the starter and his clutch system.

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

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Rick

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: 95 virago 535 Clicks, but wont turn over

Hello, Check and make sure that battery has a full charge of at least 12.5 volts. If not Charge battery to that level. Next check all Grounds good to be sure not loose or corroded. If Battery is Ok and holds a charge and has been checked for a dead Cell and wiring is good Discounect the Wire going to starter and check the voltage it is getting when pushing the starter button. If getting 12 volts or higher then the Starter is the problem. If you get less than 12 volts or non at all the Starter Relay is bad! Replace it! To check the Starter before replacing it run a direct hot wire to the connection at the starter from a good hot battery! If it does Nothing then the starter is in need of work or replacement! First check out the starter brushes . Most of the time the problem is worn out brushes! If that is not the problem then it is either the rotor (Armature) or field coils in starter. REPLACE THE Starter! Hope that helps! NOTE: When running the direct hot wire from battery to starter make sure the bike is in Neutral and switch off! You do not want it the leave home without you! LOL!!

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: i'm looking for yamaha virago xv 535 wiring

yamaha virago xv 535 wiring diagram

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Posted on Jul 16, 2009

vtrktrmn

  • 201 Answers

SOURCE: yamaha virago 535 turn ignition on neutral light

These are known for starter problems... The clicking you hear is the relay but the bendix is locked up put it in about 3rd gear and rock it hard forward and back. Bendix may release. Make sure battery is good. As I said before these bike are well known for their starter problem and even after having it fixed by a dealer problem seems to show back up after a very short time. Good Luck!

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

swDemonDog

  • 233 Answers

SOURCE: Can a voltage regulator/rectifier if not working

YES!
Good link here:
http://www.flygenring.dk/yamaha/artikler/1100ChargingSystem.pdf

Symptoms:
Lights flickering at times and/or battery gets hot to the touch

Problem:
Reglator/Rectifier

When the regulator dies, it allows as much as 19 volts to appear across the battery. This is not good. It will cook the battery and the battery could even explode. Fuse can not stand up to this!





Posted on Oct 10, 2009

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Using a multimeter check for voltage across the headlight fuse if yes then follow headlight power wire to the connector under the tank, if power is present then check for power at the headlight plug
It is quite common for wires to split inside the harness where they go around the headstock. This is because of chafing & stretching as they move with the handlebars
Hope this helps
Please mark as helpful if it has been
Ride safe
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I'm going to give you a solution based on personal experience.

I have a 1971 FLH, 1200cc. 16" front wheel, wide glide front end. One main breaker, for all power leading from the main switch on the dash.

I would ride for exactly 8 miles, and the bike would cut off.
Nothing. Nada. Just pull over to the side of the road, and let the circuit breaker cool off. (About the length of one cigarette) Then I'm on my way again for 8 miles.

Tore the seat off, rear wheel out, dash off, headlight nacelle apart, and started checking all wiring.
Found a few breaks in some of the insulation of the wires, found where someone used tape instead of heat shrink tubing. Fixed it. Tried riding again, same thing.

Went through a few more procedures. (I am a Harley mechanic on the older ones)
Finally one day I took the headlight out again, and looked for a short. (I had narrowed it down to something to do with the headlight)

Didn't see anything apparent again. Noticed this time though, that the plastic connector to the headlight, was open on the back.
All three terminals of the headlight, that went into that plastic socket, were exposed at the back.

Having just worked on my Chevy truck, I remembered that the plastic headlight socket, is Enclosed on the back.

Went back to my bike, looked REAL close with a flashlight, and saw a 1/8th inch black mark on the triple tree. The headlight terminals are too far away to create a short?

Removed the plastic headlight socket out of my truck, put it on the Harley.

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[Hey, we're talking my Harley to a truck! I did get another headlight socket for the truck later!]

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All ground connections go to it, via some sheet metal, or directly. The ground wire from your battery will be connected to your frame.

Your headlights will pull at least 30 Amps. So will your taillights when the brake, and main lights are on.
Since you have a bad ground, (Or Grounds), your ground source cannot support both headlights, and taillights. Your dash lights? They should be on the same circuit as your taillights.

How to solve this problem?

1.Start with the the two ground straps, that are supposed to be connected somewhere on the back of your engine, and lead up to the firewall. If you have had any mechanical repair, and it involved removing the engine, or a cylinder head, (Or two if you have a V6), the mechanic may have failed to connect Both flat ground straps back up. Or one, or more, of the ground straps are loose, and/or corroded at the connection to firewall/engine.

2.Checked okay? Go to the front wiring harness. Out of this harness will be wires going to the headlamps, and turn signals. There will also be one, or two wires that are a ground. They should have a round metal terminal end on them. They will connect to the front sheet metal somewhere.
They may be loose, and/or, have corrosion under the metal terminal to the sheet metal connection.
Remove the terminal end, and check for corrosion. Use sandpaper, or steel wool to clean the contact surface of the sheet metal, and the terminal end. Lightly coat the terminal end with a corrosion inhibitor you can buy from your local auto parts store. It's in a spray can.
No problem so far?

Check each headlamp socket for corrosion. Means removing the headlamps. (Yes I know. Pain!)
If your Jeep uses Krypton bulbs, don't touch the bulb with your fingers. Use rubber gloves, or a Very clean rag. The oil off of your fingers will greatly diminish the life of the bulb!
Okay so far?

Go to the rear of the vehicle. Check the rear lighting harness, and it's ground connections. Check the lamp sockets.

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Yes, the starter clutches sometimes get stuck on those bikes.
Then the starter turns at very high speeds and get broken.
Remove the starter from the engine ( that's an easy job )
Hold the starter in a bankwrench and connect a 12V battery to it. If the starter turns, he is OK, if not, replace the starter and his clutch system.

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