Tack Everything work in the gauge cluster but the Tack. There is not a Cable running to the Tack like the old school old Tacks. it is all electric coming from some where else.

1. Faulty Instrument Cluster: The instrument cluster itself may be defective or damaged. Over time, electronic components can degrade, leading to malfunctions.
2. Fuse: Check the fuse box for any blown fuses related to the instrument cluster. A blown fuse could disrupt power to the cluster, causing all the gauges to fail simultaneously.
3. Faulty Wiring: There could be a problem with the wiring harness or connectors that supply power and data to the instrument cluster. Loose connections or damaged wires can prevent the cluster from receiving the necessary signals.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor: The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is responsible for providing speed data to the instrument cluster. If the VSS malfunctions, it can cause the speedometer to stop working, and it may affect other gauges as well.
5. Engine Control Module (ECM): The ECM communicates with the instrument cluster to provide data for various gauges. A malfunctioning ECM could disrupt communication and cause all the gauges to fail.
6. Grounding Issues: Poor grounding can lead to electrical problems, including instrument cluster malfunctions. Ensure that all ground connections related to the instrument cluster are clean and secure.

Given the complexity of diagnosing electrical issues, it's advisable to have a qualified mechanic or automotive technician inspect your vehicle. They can use diagnostic tools to pinpoint the exact cause of the problem and recommend the necessary repairs. Additionally, if the issue is related to the instrument cluster itself, it may need to be repaired or replaced by a professional.

Anytime you weld something or even tack anything together, your joints are going to move some. You could position your pieces to compensate for this or you could clamp them down. But no matter what, when that weld puddle solidifies, it will pull and the stresses exerted on your work piece can be pretty high. If you can't clamp it in place to minimize movement, try tacking one spot on one side, then--using a your favorite hammer--influence your piece back straight and tack the other side. Once you have solid tacks that are going to hold your piece as square as you can make them, then weld it out, alternating sides and direction of travel. Of course minimize heat input as much as possible. Travel speed has more to do with heat input than amperage or voltage in many cases. Its a little hard to give you specific recommendations on your project without knowing more about your set up there. So tack, straighten, tack, straighten, tack straighten and so one...then weld it out.

GM vehicles from 1999-2006 had many of these gauge clusters go out. It is very unlike that it is a fuse as most of that stuff (speedometer, etc) is gear driven. You can buy a re-build cluster at most parts stores or through a GM dealership fairly cheaply, and that's probably your best option.

I have never heard of an engine noise being described as a tick tack rattling noise. (I assume you mean Tick Tack candy/breathmints?) \

Either way, if it doesnt start, but just makes a rattling/knocking sound, I would ask you did it just quit on you and not restart? Or did it get you where you were going and then would not start when you were ready to leave? If the answer to the first question is yes, then you are likely facing a broken timing belt. The sound you hear are the valves coming into contact with the pistons when you are cranking the starter. This is a bad sound. Lets hope your answer was no to the first and yes to the second. Are you sure have gas? I cannot tell you how many times people have told me "It just won't start!" only to pour a gallon of gas in and varrroooom! What about oil? The tick tack sound just doesn't sound like a healthy engine sound in my head. Do you have oil in the engine? Does somebody hate you enough to drop nuts and bolts into your intake manifold? That would sound like tick tacks. BIG GIANT tick tacks, but tick tacks nonetheless.

if you were to use a volt meter to check for voltage on the tach's + wire at the instrument cluster while running, and checked for a signal from the speedo's + wire at the instrument cluster, there's a strong chance theres voltage. These instrument clusters have a tendency to corrode at the terminals for these two gauges. Sometimes cleaning the contacts will work, but installing a known used one will do the trick.

speedo bullet or the cable have to pull cluster to see if cable came loose or broke

I assume this is an electric or digital cluster? If so, odds are these are on a fuse, which an owners manual should tell you where the fuse box is and which fuse. If it doesn't have a fuse, or blows a fuse soon as you replace it, take some time and patience and trace the wire(s) (they may have positive and ground-negative) feeding these instruments and pay particular attention where these wires are bent at extreme angles or may pinch (like under the gas tank). If all else fails run a new feed wire to the cluster.

As far as I can tell this unit does not have an adjustment. Normally such an adjustment would only be included on much more expensive and specialised units generally listed for professional use.
If you need more pressure then hitting the tack with a hammer is the general answer.
If you need less pressure, i.e. the tack is cutting through the insulation/wire you are tacking then a cushion may help.
Suggestions for cushion material include one or more layers of paper or a thin (e.g. 3mm) piece of neoprene foam. After tacking the wire in place the foam/paper can be removed almost completely to produce the desired result - a tacked wire with no damage.
Hope this helps. For more power I favour the Stanley PowerShot series: they are absolute brutes and shoot most variations of staples, tacks and nails.

what has this gotr ton do with televisions?