Fuel Pump(EFI)and lights non-functional, ignition o.k.

There are several possible reasons why your 1999 Ford F-150 might crank but not start. Some common causes include a faulty ignition switch, a problem with the fuel system, a malfunctioning ignition control module, or a faulty starter motor. Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the problem:

Check the battery: Make sure the battery is fully charged and that the connections are clean and secure. A weak or dead battery can cause the engine to crank but not start.

Check the fuel system: If the fuel pump is not working properly, it can cause the engine to crank but not start. You can check the fuel pump by listening for a humming noise when the key is turned to the "on" position.

Check the ignition system: If the ignition switch or ignition control module is faulty, it can prevent the engine from starting. You can test the ignition switch by turning the key to the "on" position and checking for power at the starter solenoid.

Check the starter motor: If the starter motor is faulty, it can prevent the engine from starting. You can test the starter motor by jumping the starter solenoid with a wire.

If you are unable to diagnose the problem on your own, it's a good idea to have a mechanic check it out. They will be able to diagnose the problem more accurately and recommend the necessary repairs.

did not check all fuses first, every one? for sure doing #1 wrong.

EFI
rules,
1a: do not do what you did with battery NEG lug connected. ever.!
2: EFI ,all in the world CUT fuel dead 1 or 2 ways if the ECU detects spark bad, ending as seen on TV crash and burn (FUEL *****)
sure perplexed ,as we all are on 1988 super old EFI crude as heck engine EFI, learn to do the blink codes on CEL?

more, if the pump runs for 1 second each key on as many do.
Called prime pulse) that means the PCM/ECU is not happy
fuses blown !!!!!
ECU cuts fuel for this list.
1: fuses blown
2: cmp or CKP dead. (ensors)
3; spark read back or tacho dead cranking, cuts FUEL DEAD !
ICM dead? is what makes tacho wire dead.
4: TPS wired bad such that , POT wiper pin is 3 to 5 volts DC.
this means wot mode or TPS throttle angle near 100% this activates
ECU's cut fuel mode , AKA,, unflood the engine cranking and cuts fuel
5; a bad PCM , working on EFI with BATTERY NEG and POS connected.
old ECU do not like any kinds shorts, you make messing with EFI parts
thus rule #1a , do not blow up ECUs is the rule.

I have bench tested, 88-95 ECU's
and learn all this, by using home made tachometer generators
and tested all inputs to learn that, what works and what does not work;. (and why)
when cranking some sensors are not used at all
or goes to limphome but does run. using crude limphom rules

for sure one input tot he ECU is dead wrong
well hope, that and not bad ECU./

There could be several reasons why your 2012 Spyder RT-SE5 is not starting when you turn the switch. Here are a few things you can check:

1. Battery: The first thing to check is the battery. If the battery is weak or dead, the bike won't start. Check the battery connections to make sure they are tight and clean. If the battery is dead, you may need to replace it.
2. Fuses: Check the fuses to see if any are blown. If a fuse is blown, it could be preventing the bike from starting. Replace any blown fuses with the correct type and rating.
3. Starter motor: The starter motor may be faulty. Try tapping the starter motor gently with a hammer or other tool while someone else turns the ignition key. If the bike starts, then the starter motor is likely the problem.
4. Ignition switch: The ignition switch may be faulty. If you turn the key and nothing happens, try wiggling the key or turning it back and forth slightly to see if the bike starts. If it does, then the ignition switch may need to be replaced.
5. Fuel system: The fuel system may be clogged or there may be a problem with the fuel pump. Check to make sure there is fuel in the tank and that the fuel lines are not blocked. You may need to clean or replace the fuel filter.

If you are unable to identify the problem, it is recommended that you take your bike to a certified mechanic or dealership for diagnosis and repair.

A little more information is needed here. Is the bike turning over? Is the starter motor turning the engine over but not starting? Is it sputtering or coughing or backfiring?

Was it running and then just stopped? has it been sitting for a while and now won't start?

Engines need fuel, air, compression and spark to fire. Try the following. Try to start it and then:

1. pull the spark plugs. Are they wet? can you smell gas? If not you probably are not getting fuel to the engine for it to start. This bike probably has fuel injection. On many FI bikes, when you turn it on you can hear the fuel pump turn on. do you hear that? Look at the fuse box and see if you have a blown fuse for any critical functions such as fuel pump, ignition, etc.

How do the spark plugs look? Are they corroded and black and burned looking? Fouled spark plugs. Try replacing them. If they are whitish and look as if the metal as eroded away your engine is running lean and you need new plugs but also need to address running too lean or you will burn up your engine.

2. If spark plugs are wet you are getting gas. hold the base of the spark plug against metal such as the engine and press the starter. You should see a spark on the plug if it is properly grounded. If you don't see a spark then either your plugs are bad or you aren't getting spark due to a dead battery or a problem between the battery and the spark plug such as fuse box or an issue with chip that controls the engine.

3. How old is the battery? If you are having battery issues you probably can't run the starter but you might be having issues there as well.

4. If the bike is sputtering and backfiring it is probably a timing issue. I don't know your model of bike but I am pretty sure the timing is controlled by a chip. That may have issues or again, maybe a fuse that controls elements of the ignition system has blown. Are there any wires that have broken or have exposed metal that could be shorting? Any of the leads to the FI system come undone?

It supplies the EFI Main relay, which in turn powers the fuel pump, ignition switch, and starter relay. In addition it powers the ECM computer, so that if you wish to clear a trouble code from there, you pull the EFI fuse for 30 sec. See here p177 http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/eg1.pdf good luck

Year, make, model, and engine size?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

It supplies the EFI Main relay, which in turn powers the fuel pump, ignition switch, and starter relay. In addition it powers the ECM computer, so that if you wish to clear a trouble code from there, you pull the EFI fuse for 30 sec. See here p177

http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/eg1.pdf

For the sake of completeness, here's the full no-start Troubleshooting Guide for the 2001 6 cylinder 3.5L MFI Mitsu Diamante, but the problem with your car is line item #6 - the ECC (Engine Control Computer) is shorted/dead. Without an ECC, the Diamante will (a) get no spark, since the ignition timing comes from the computer, and (b) get no fuel, since the fuel injectors are operated by the computer as well. The engine will turn over, since running the starter motor is a non-computer controlled matter of a correctly functioning ignition switch, a charged battery, and good wiring to a functional starter motor/solenoid, but will never start.
The clue pointing directly to the ECC failure is the blowing ECC fuses. These fuses are blowing to tell you that the ECC is shorted dead.
Since the ECC is expensive, exhaustively check out all other possible sources of the problems, but with so few problems causing loww of both spark and fuel, combined with the blown ECC fuses pointing directly to the ECC, it seems that the ECC is the only culprit.
Here's a used 2001 Mitsu Diamante ECC at Ebay for $175.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270828804340+&item=270828804340&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466


Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Choke - Stuck or Improperly Functioning Choke.
2 Inspect Fuel Filter - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
3 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay - Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator - Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
5 Inspect Fuel Pump - Low Fuel Pressure.
6 Inspect Engine Control Computer - Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
7 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainer.
8 Inspect Ignition Switch - Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
9 Inspect Battery - Battery Discharged or Faulty.
10 Inspect Battery Cable - Coroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
11 Inspect Solenoid - Starter Solenoid Faulty.
12 Inspect Starter - Starter Motor Faulty.
13 Inspect Wireset - Worn or Damaged Spark Plug Wires.
14 Inspect Ignition Coil - Faulty Ignition Coil.
15 Inspect Distributor Cap - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Cap.
16 Inspect Spark Plugs - Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
17 Inspect Distributor Rotor - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Rotor.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank - Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor - Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor.

The fuel pump strainer is a sock-like strainer in the fuel tank on the input side of the fuel pump designed to protect the fuel pump by straining out any debris in the tank (similar to the way that the fuel filter protects the engine/fuel injectors/fuel pressure regulator).

well the first part of your question i was all ready to tell you to put a new fuel pump in, now not so sure, there is a relay for fuel pump, can you hear pump cycle and relay click? relay under hood you will have to listen close they don't run long maybe a couple secounds, if you don't relay bad. if you do pump could be bad, do fuel pressure test pump could be weak. don't think sunroof and turn signals are related, but stranger things have happend.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Appreciate the headsup Toyota ED. I had a discussion with an HD rider/shop owner here in my country and with your indulgence, may I share his thoughts and my inputs:

• if it were alarm induced power shutdown to the fuel pump, most likely the starter button will also not work (depends on the model/version/region of intended use);
• there was a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for the upgrade of the fuel pump. The updates would have a letter "A" after the part number;
• there is a feature called "Storage Mode" involving the use of signal light switches and the key FOB. It might have been inadvertently activated;
• if it were an alarm induced problem, there would be no spark and would be audible;
• often found issue with similar symptoms is a corroded fuel pump relay or its terminals/connectors. Might as well clean the entire fuse/relay box and apply electrical grease.

And agree with TE that Rselvy would be in a better position to be of more information.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.