1996 dyna 12k original miles--has engine vibe @1800-2000 rpm,when warmed up ,most noticeable in 5th gear ,both accell and decell,new mounts front/rear,when I pull-in clutch it stops,does not appear to be in drive line , even tried auto primary chain adj. kit,no change....bike runs great otherwise,local HD tech said all dyna,s have this problem when they break-in..I owned for 7 years ..no problem up to now...seems to be increaseing in intensity..
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17 years is a long time for engine rubbers on a v twin. But if the vibration is only in the handlebars, you might want to fit some heavier handlebar end weights. They are there to absorb vibration(they act as dampers.) But, if the vibration is in the engine, it may be worth checking the ignition timing. On a Big V the ignition only needs to be out by a small amount to set up a noticeable vibration.
Sounds like valve clatter, a common issue. We chased the same noise, with HD installing new push rods, adjustable rods and then they said it is a Harley. Not a real answer. This noise ruines the ride as it grabs your mind and focuses you on the noise.We tried different rod extensions within the lifter adjustment range, same deal. We chased for about 1 1/2 years, trying to not void warranty.
The only long term solution was to go to aftermarket (velvet touch) lifters and lifter blocks. Now we NEVER hear the issue.
You can check for a loose or broken motor mount but you need to consider how the rubber mounts work. The mounts absorb high frequency vibrations. Low frequency vibrations will be felt throughout the machine.
On most Dyna's, the bike vibrates when idling. When accelerating though the gears (and decelerating back down) if the engine rpm's gets below about 2000 rpm's, you'll feel the vibration. Once above this level, the bike smooths out due to the change in frequency of the vibrations. I have owned a '94 FXDWG since new and this is my experience with the bike.
However, if the vibration is very bad, you may need to have it looked at by a technician. You'll have to determine that for yourself.
With such limited information i can almost put my thumb on it being the valves - they are compressed using special tools, aka - leave it to the pros and save yourself a headache!
(In 1rst and 2nd the engine rpm is low, in 4th and 5th it is much higher making the knock more noticeable)
Most inner primary leaks come from the alternator o-ring the best thing to do is put on a new one and put clear silicone on the primary and the engine case.
Hi .... This may sound daft but have you recently changed or had the exhaust off ? Have a look at the silencer/muffler rear mounts, difficult to explain but they should be in a 'neutral' position, not fully pushed in. Maybe the vibes are coming straight along the pipes from the engine and through the footpegs.
Let me know how you get on.
I'm not going to post this as a solution, cause vibration can be cause by so much, Id really have to see the bike...some things to check.
Crack in the frame, loose engine mount, out of tune, drive train is out of alignment....or almost any internal engine problem
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