Harley davidson 78 shovelhead diagnose and repair manual

SOURCE: link for down loading harley davidson road king repair manual

Not going to happen, copyright issues just like music. You may find it but.......

SOURCE: How do I hotwire my 78 shovel head?

Run a wire from the postive side of the battery to the top side of the coil. There should be two white wires on the top side of the coil and a black wire on the bottom. Once there, you can kick start the bike. If you want to use the electric starter, pop the rubber boot off starter solenoid and jump from the large top lug to the small lug in the middle to engage the starter.

Or, you can purchase an aftermarket switch and change out the switch. You need a 6-lug switch for you 78.

SOURCE: manual engine harley davidson shovelhead

The book you need it either an OEM Harley-Davidson manual, part #99482-69 or a Chilton's M420 manual. Both are good manuals and readily available.

Good Luck
Steve

SOURCE: 1972 shovelhead harley-davidson engine rebuilt

Thirty over is nothing. I just finished a rebuilt on a 1970 model and we went 0.050" over on it. It was already at 30 over and the pistons scored.

Anyway, don't use one of these cheap Chinese made bendix's. Get an ACCEL. They may be made in China but they're better. You can't get good Shovelhead parts anymore.

Now, before you put the outer primary back on, use your hand and operate the fork that shifts the bendix into engagement with the ring gear. Does it engage like it's supposed to. You'll probably have to turn it just a bit. Now, do it again with the outer primary on. Does it still engage smoothly?

Now, here's the cause of most starter grinding problems on a shovel. The starter, ring gear, and outer primary are all out of alignment. The starter housing, the one with the big gear in it is supposed to have alignment pins in it as well as the outer primary. These pins are to ensure that the starter drive and the ring gear are properly aligned with each other. With the starter and outer primary on, you should be able to pull on the plunger of the solenoid and the starter drive engage fully and smoothly. Also don't forget the large brass washer. This keeps the drive from going too far.

If you're worried about low voltage, take the battery to an automotive parts store and ask them to load test the battery. If it drops below 10 volts, buy a new battery.

SOURCE: trying to find correct method

If your Shovelhead has solid lifters, you set them exactly like you would set the tappets on an Ironhead Sportster. With the engine stone cold, Bring either piston to top dead center ON THE COMPRESSION stroke. Both valves on that cylinder should be closed and the tappets on the heel of the cam at this point. Now, adjust the pushrods longer until you can no longer turn them with your fingertips. Now, back them back down until you can barely spin them with your fingers. Lock the locknuts down. Then bring the other cylinder to TDC COMPRESSION STROKE and adjust those pushrods.

You are adjusting for Zero backlash just like on an Ironhead Sporty. As the engine heats and the cylinders and head expand, they do so away from the cases which gives you more backlash the hotter they get. If you get the pushrods too tight, when the engine cools down, they'll hold the valve open just slightly making the engine difficult to get started.

Now, if you have hydraulic tappets, with the engine cold, back the pushrods off until they are loose. Bring them back down to zero backlash and then come down four additional turns and lock the locknut. Wait until the tappet bleeds down and you can spin the pushrod before you turn the engine.

Good Luck
Steve