Need new rear brakes on 3wheel trike how to?

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to base model category.

That is difficult, because basically, you have bought a custom bike. Normally adjusting hydraulic brakes comes in 3 parts.

Make sure there is material on the brake pads.
Make sure free play is taken up if they have an adjuster.
Make sure there is no air in the system.

There is some generic help in the link.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Boulevard+adjust+rear+hydraulic+brakes

'TRAM' Trike is unknown unless you meant 'Tram*'? (with a P)

I see Fixya Profanity Filter doesn't like that 'T' word!
Please always proof read before pressing 'Post Question'. Sometimes you need to be creative:>D

https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Boulevard+TRAM+Trike

....

That isn't going to work unless you can do welding and fabrication.

Your existing caliper brake is fitted to the top stem of the forks and through a cantilever system applies rubber brake pads to the rim of the wheel.

Disc brakes have a brake rotor fitted to the wheel, and a brake caliper fitted to a welded bracket on the fork leg. When you apply the brake either by cable or hydraulically the two brake pads are squeezed against the rotor.

You have two choices

1. Buy the forks, and wheel complete with braking system.
2. Buy a plain Titanium wheel and upgrade the cantilever caliper brake.

Google doesn't show any with a front disc brake so no idea where you got this wheel from? You best bet is to visit a local cycle shop.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Worksman+Port-o-Trike%2C+disc+brake+upgrade

..

First, for this to work, you'll need a "proportioning valve" to adjust how much pressure goes to the front, and how much to the rear.

Also, you'll probably need a master cylinder with a larger bore than the stock on, to push more fluid.

The minimum brake disc thickness is stamped on the side of the disc. Maximum brake disc lateral runout or warpage is 0.008 inch (0.2 mm) when measured near the outside diameter.
Replace brake pads if the friction material above the backing plate on either pad is 0.04 inch (1.02 mm) thick or less.

To remove the rear brake pads begin by removing the right side saddlebag, loosen both pad pins but do not remove them or installation of the new pads will be more difficult than needs to be, remove the rear master cylinder reservoir so you can se the fluid level as you push the pads and the pistons back as the level ma rise too much when the pistons are seated fully in their bores and you may have to see this and remove excess fluid, pry the inside pad back pushing the pistons fully into their bores using a putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc. THEN when the pistons have been fully retracted pull the pad pins part way out until the inside pad drops free and note the orientation of the pad so that you can easily install the new pad in the same orientation with the curved portion of pad necessarily facing the rear of the motorcycle, install the new pad and install but do not tighten the pad pins, then pump the rear brake pedal to move the inside pistons out until they
they contact the inside brake pad, then using a putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc pry the outside pad back in order to push those pistons fully into their bores, verify that the inside pad is captured between the brake disc and the pistons, completely remove the pad pins to free the outside brake pad. note the orientation of the pad before it falls out and install a new outside brake pad using the same orientation with the curved portion of pad necessarily facing the rear of the motorcycle and if the inside pad moved during the previous step reinstall it. Replacing one pad at a time keeps the anti-rattle spring in place and so if you wish to replace the spring you will have to remove both pads to remove and replace it. THEN inspect the pad pins for unacceptable wear/grooving and replace if and as necessary and install the two pad pins and tighten them to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3- 22.6 Nm). THEN pump the brake pedal to extend the pistons and move the brake pads out against the brake disc. THEN check that the brake fluid is at the proper level about 1/8 inch down from the top of the reservoir and add NEW D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, if necessary, install the master cylinder reservoir cover and tighten the cover screws to 6-8 inlbs(0.7-0.9 Nm), install the right side saddlebag, turn on the ignition/Light Key Switch and observe proper operation of the brake light, safely test ride the motorcycle and if the brakes feel soft or spongy, bleed them until you get a firm, hard pedal. Allow the new pads to properly wear in to the disc by not doing hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km).

Hello Dale, this is an easy job on your bike. Use a flat head screw driver and remove the brake pad cover...it will pop off.
Remove the hairpin type clips off of the ends of the brake pad pins.... Use pliers & pull the brake pad pins out from the front of the rear brake caliper....Clean the rear brake caliper's piston with brake cleaner. Use a rag and wipe it clean...Reinsert the old brake pads into the caliper. Place a pry bar between the brake pads, then push the inner piston into the caliper body, this will allow room to install new pads.... Remove the old brake pads...Coat the brake pad pins and the new brake pads metal back plates with high-temperature grease.

Slip the new brake pads into the rear brake caliper, then push the brake pad pins halfway into the caliper. Slip the spring clips into place between the brake pads and the brake pad pins. Push the brake pad pins completely through the rear brake caliper. Push the hairpin clips back into the brake pad pin tips. Snap the brake pad cover onto the top of the rear brake caliper....

Pump the rear brake pedal until the pedal feels firm, indicating that the brake pads have closed around the brake rotor...No bleeding will be needed because the system was never opened - That's all there is to it...i hope this information is helpful & good luck with your bike.

Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

Go change it at a auto place or you can buy the brake and do by yourself

Unfortunatly this is normal, nothing can be done about it. Get pads checked every 15,000 miles to save discs.

I had the same problem with my Hope mono-mini.
I took it into a shop and the guy showed my ruffly what to do.

On the side that the disk is rubbing you need to put a spacer on the bolt between the brake mount and the bike's mount.
If done correctly (or understood what i meant) it will pull the pad away from the disk a little bit and it will stop rubbing.

Hope it helps
Ed