Question about 1992 Yamaha FZR 600

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What cause the voltage regulator to smoke every time you put the put the battery ?

Every time I put the positive wire to the battery, my regulator start smoking, the bike is running fine it's just start smoking

Posted by Randy Qario on

  • Randy Qario Mar 17, 2013

    Sorry it's the Regulator Rectifier will start smoking



1 Answer


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Corroded terminals maybe

Posted on Mar 18, 2013


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  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: the wires going to the voltage regulator keep burning up.

Common problem with poor quality parts, the regulator is the problem, the generator is working other wise you would not have fried the wiring, you answered your own question. someone telling porkies to get more money from unsuspecting client?
The regulator controls the voltage not the generator, the generator only supplys the voltage it cannot overcharge unless the regulator is not working properly, simple!

Posted on Jul 28, 2009



  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt

your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot

Posted on Jul 31, 2009


  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bike won't start, battery bulged

Chances are it is the rectifier/regulator which is a sealed unit that has to be replaced if faulty. A bad one can cook your battery as well as your light bulbs and wiring. To check this connect a VOM across your battery terminals while the bike is running. If normal you should see about 13.5 volts. If your voltage climbs up to the 18 to 22 volt range or higher you must replace the part before you do further damage. Also be aware of the dangers of over charging a battery as it can explode and cause personal injury. If your battery has been cooked you will have smelled sulfuric acid and the battery will become hot to the touch. If that is the case you will also have to replace the battery as well as it will no longer hold a charge. When this happens the battery will bulge and this is called plate bow. By replacing both the battery and the rectifier/regulator you should be as good as new. In very rare instances it could be the stator which could cost a lot more but chances are its just the rectifier/regulator. I've seen them for very cheap prices on Ebay.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009


  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 yamaha fzr 600.

i had a similar problem on my 1998 honda superhawk. I was down in Daytona Beach, Florida, and it was really hot and my battery went dead. It turned out that the heat of being down there along with the frequent short trips and idling we were doing down there fried my regulator/rectifier. It actually melted it was so hot. I bought a new regulator rectifier from a guy online who was really cool about it. Rick's Motorsports Electrics was the name of his store.

I looked up the part for you. check it out:

Posted on Aug 19, 2009


Rob Stephenson

  • 284 Answers

SOURCE: Two years ago my Voltage Regulator went bad and

If you're going through regulators that often I would suggest going after the stator. Make sure it's not grounding out on the chassis. Find the 3 yellow or white wires that are connected to the regulator. using a meter in OHMS ( looks like the horseshoe ) with the bike off check wire one (red ) to wire 2 ( black ) then wire one ( red ) to 3 (black ), then 2 (red ) to 1 ( black ) and 2 ( red ) to 3 ( black ) , then pick one ( red ) and black to the chassis, motor, ground. somewhere metal on the bike. The first series of tests you should get some sort of numbers, ( which should be somewhat close in numbers ) When you go to ground, Chassis you should get no numbers, OFL, OL, or the horseshoe sign if you get numbers there, the stator is bad and your transmitting ac voltage to the chassis.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

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NEVER EVER pull the positive cable... thats an old trick for cars and old style charging systems... but then again it's your harley not mine. you need a DVOM set to AC volts to test the stator and set to DC volts to test the regulator... anwhere from 5-20 ac volts coming out of stator and 12 volts dc going TO regulator... yes then regulator, no AC volts out of stator... pull the side cover as mentioned above...

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My CDI burnt out, the Rev counter went mad, CDI smoked, nd bike stopped with blown front & rear bulbs and a dead flat battery. I replaced all the above. a month later it's happened again, smoking CDI,...

Your regulator may have went bad. The regulator converts the ac charge produced from the alternator into the DC volts required to charge the battery. When they fail they can put out 5 times what the battery needs. Depending on your bike the regulator may be separate from the alternator. You should pick up a cheap volt meter. Once you get the bike running, use the volt meter to see what the bike is charging at. If you find the charge is above 14.8 V or that the voltage fluctuates to the extreme, ex. 14.2v, 8.2v, 12.7v all within a few seconds. then the regulator is probable. Another problem I have found is that the ground wire for wiring harness does not get hooked back up. This is a smaller ground wire that may plug into the main ground cable or sometimes is a separate lead connected to the battery. This will fry an entire system.

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The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.

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I have a 2000 fatboy the accessory fuse blos instantly when i turn on the switch . this acurd after traveling the bike just shut down on me . at that point i checked the bat. and it was smoking hot

The fuse should have blown quickly enough to prevent the battery from overheating. The accessory fuse powers quite a few things. Mostly it powers things like turn signals, speedometer, running lights and maybe a few other things. You need a schematic to tell what it powers. Do NOT put a higher rated fuse in the circuit or you'll start burning wires instead of blowing fuses. Evidently you've got a short somewhere or an overvoltage problem. To check for the latter case, you need a DVOM and a fully charged battery in your bike. Put the meter's function selector switch in the DC VOLTS, 25 volt or greater range. Connect the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Within a minute or so you should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts on your meter. If you read greater than 15 volts, I'd replace the regulator as it's probably overcharging your battery. If the fuse continues to blow, you'll have to trace the wires and look for a short circuit somewhere.

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I need to change the voltage regulator on a 2002 harley ultra classic can you take me through the stepes to do it

First disconnect the battery negative post. Then, unplug the two wires that run from the regulator to the front part of the engine. Follow the remaining wire from the regulator to the either the battery positive post or to the starter connection and disconnect that wire. Remember how it was routed through the engine and frame area. Unbolt the regulator and bolt the new replacement back up in it's place. There may be a "star type" lock washer between the regulator and the frame on all the mounting bolts. Put his washer back on or in the case there isn't one, put one on each mounting bolt. The purpose of this is to ensure the regulator has a good ground. If if doesn't have a good ground, it will not work correctly. Plug the plug from the regulator into the socket on the front of the engine and run the remaining long wire along the frame and back to where the original wire came from, either the battery positive post or the starter connection. Some people cut the original wire and splice in the new wire from the new regulator but I don't recommend it. It's a problem waiting to happen. Reconnect the battery negative post. When working with a battery, always disconnect the negative post first and reconnect the negative last. This prevents damage to the battery or motorcycle and possibly prevents injury to you due to arcing the battery against the frame ground.

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The bike was running fine in the evening. Rode to work parked the bike took the key out. The battery was dead in the morning. Put the 10 amp charger on and the motor started to turn over with the key off!...

your starter button is malfunctioning. maybe some oxidation in the switch. when starter button is pressed in that can cause your other electrical stuff to not work.

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