I have a 49cc motor with just wires coming out of engine /i need to know hot wire coming out to coil

I would be surprised if anyone helps you with this question, because if you need to hot wire it, then people will think it has been stolen.

check the voltage to the solenoid coil when attampting to start the engine, you can also remove the 10ga. wire from the starter and check it that way too. with the starter motor spinning your voltage to the solenoid coil (the small wires) should be no less than 8-9 volts. With the starter spinning voltage to the starter should be about the same, anything less and you could be dealing with a bad connection at the battery, solenoid or the wire ends themselves. Of course all of this is assuming the battery is healthy and fully charged, weak batteries kill starter motors and starter solenoids, it makes them get real hot and fail prematurely.

u got spark put a dime in the plug that's the gap u need hope this helps or just a bit of gas into the head where the plug goes good luck

Hello, Chris. I will try to help you out with some pointers, but without a wiring diagram I can only go so far.
The procedure for checking the cooling fans is to first check the fan itself and the fan motor. Spin the blades by hand to make sure it is free wheeling. Then check motor with jumper wires to make sure motor is good. If it is, find the fan relay in the under hood fuse/relay block, the cover of block should show relay locations. Pull the relay out and check that one terminal for the relay has power. This will be a "hot at all times" power signal. Use a voltmeter or test light to find the one hot terminal. If no terminal has power there could be a failed fuse link or maxi-fuse that feeds the relay. If one terminal does have power, then swap relays to check that relay is not the problem. Often manufacturers use the same relay (same part number) for different applications. Relays can be tested to some extent with jumper wires connected to the relay's coil side, then checked for continuity on the power side, but the only way to be sure is to swap in a known good one. Actually, relays only rarely fail, but never know without checking. So if you have swapped relays, will need to run engine until warmed up to see if fan cycles-it should come on for a few seconds after engine has reached normal operating temperature. If it does, you are good to go.
If still nothing, we are about at the place where a wiring diagram will be needed, as I stated at the beginning. Manufacturers use different ways to turn the fan on by activating the relay. The engine computer will send a signal to the coil side of relay when it senses coolant temperature needs the fan on to increase air flow through the radiator. This often happens in stop and go driving, or driving at slow speeds. When relay coil is on, relay contacts on power side are closed and power passes to the fan motor. It's that simple, but the relay's coil side has to go to ground somewhere, somehow for the coil side to energize. Sometimes, the coil signal may be grounded internally by the computer. See what I mean: you need a wiring diagram to fully scope the fan circuit. If you get this far and still no fan, might try a new coolant temperature switch or sensor just to see if that is the problem.
I hope this is of some help. Good luck. Post back when you have solved it and let us know.

Can I help with a particular issue?

Check all plugs and connectors for rust and dirt this will help to make it go. I had same problem it was just dirtie plugs/ connectors.

make sure the engine is grounded to the frame, check all wiring.could be your magneto has died