2005 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom Logo
Posted on Dec 29, 2012
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Can't tighten left front foot peg mount on 2000XL

Foot peg easily spins on mounting shaft, can't toghten

1 Answer

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  • Harley Davidson Master 420 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 05, 2013
Anonymous
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Joined: Mar 02, 2009
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On the end of the peg you will see a head for the bolt it requires an Allen wrench to tighten.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 22, 2009

SOURCE: 79 sportster left side upper motor mount bolt size

On the Ironhead Sportster, the top motor mount bolt that goes through the frame is usually a 1/2 inch bolt. I'd use a grade 8 fine thread bolt with a nylok nut on it. Make sure you "shim" the top motor mount to the frame with the appropiate amount of washers so as not to "torque" the frame. If you do, either the top motor mount or the tab on the frame will break from the torque and vibration.

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rtpflh

rtpflh

  • 546 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 22, 2009

SOURCE: Frame Specs

1 1/8 inch. to check,make two cuts 1 1/8 inch apart 1'' long in a piece of card board fold back the tab you created,now you have a gauge.ride safe.

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 18, 2010

SOURCE: i want to put a set of pegs on the upper shock

Have you tried V-Twin Manufacturing? They've got just about anything one could want. The only thing is that their stuff is mostly made in Tiawan. But, then so is everything else you buy these days.

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 30, 2010

SOURCE: I have a FLTHI 2004

I have a 1965 FL that has the exact same design for the shift lever. You may think it's a bad design but when something last 45 years, it can't be too bad. You're shifter may just need a bit of tweaking. If you have a "heel and toe" type shifters that are two pieces, make sure they're adjusted so the side to side slack is minimal. If the shifter and the shift lever on the backside are one piece units, loosen the clamp bolts and adjsut them for the least amount of side to side freeplay. If this is alright but there is too much side to side slack, use get aftermarket spring washers that will tighten the shifter shaft up. Now, if the bushing is worn out, you can replace that as well.

Good Luck
Steve

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 03, 2011

SOURCE: i have a 75 flh

Yes, this is where the passenger foot peg on the left side of the bike goes. There is an arm that clamps onto the round stub on the inspection cover and is afjustable to almost any angle. The right side foot peg support bolts to the end of the transmission and also has an adfustable arm that clamps onto a stub on it. Then the pegs go on the end of the arms. Go to this site and take a look . http://www.bikebandit.com/1975-harley-davidson-flh-1200/o/m770#sch171752 I'm pretty sure they didn't move the peg brackets to the seat tubes of the frame until 1977. If your bike has two holes in a welded-on tab on the rear of the down tubes behind the primary and the transmission, you can use the later model peg brackets. But, if your bike has no holes in the frame or the swingarm for passenger peg brackets, this is the only style you can use and stay original. You could fabricate and weld on tabs to later model peg brackets or use clamp on brackets and pegs.


Good Luck
Steve

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How do you replace the rack and opinion on a 92 cutlass ceira

Here you are - power rack & pinion.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1
  1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
  2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
  4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
  5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
  6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.
  1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.



Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly
  1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.
To install:
  1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Install the heat shield.
  3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
  4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
  5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
  6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
  8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2.2L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
  2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
  3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.
  1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
  3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Remove the support fixture.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.
3.1L Engine (VIN M)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
  3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
  8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
  2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
  5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
  7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
  8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  13. Lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the support fixture.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

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How to replace rack an pinion cutlass ciera 1992

You aren't saying what engine is in it, or whether it is manual or power steering. Here is the R/R procedure for power steering rack for all engine sizes.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1
  1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
  2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
  4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
  5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
  6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.
  1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.



Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly
  1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.
To install:
  1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Install the heat shield.
  3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
  4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
  5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
  6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
  8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2.2L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
  2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
  3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.
  1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
  3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Remove the support fixture.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.
3.1L Engine (VIN M)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
  3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
  8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
  2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
  5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
  7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
  8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  13. Lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the support fixture.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

25936687-ge4w2xkagkibehwv23tkbbb2-2-0.gif
0helpful
1answer

My right side foot peg shaft is loose. How do I tighten it?

If you are talking about the front foot peg. Take the screw that holds the peg to the mount out. Inside the mount you will see an allen that tightens the mount to the shaft you will need to tighten this allen. Then put the peg back on and your done.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

1helpful
1answer

Trying to get right side foot peg case off foot peg seems to have a nut behind case not sure how to get off

Yes there is a nut on the backside of the stud that the peg mounts to. The stud is also the shaft for the rear brake pedal. To get to the nut, take the master cylinder loose and the snap ring that holds the rear brake pedal on or the remove the pin from the brake pedal. Now, take the large nut below the peg and brake pedal shaft off and the other two bolts that hold the front sprocket cover on. Remove the cover and you can get to the nut.

Good Luck
Steve
0helpful
1answer

How to change a belt on a Whirlpool washer model LA555OXTWO

I am not exactly sure on your machine, several places called it a direct drive unit but here are some directions I have found also.

1) Turn off water. Disconnect electrical supply and water hoses.
2) Remove agitator and cap from machine ( this is not always possible as the agitator gets frozen on the shaft, it just makes the job a little easier )
3) Lay machine on it's front. Protect front of the unit from scratches. Do not leave it over night on it's front as some oil will leak out the breather hole on top of the transmission.
4) Remove rear service panel
5) Loosen both nuts holding the motor mounting bracket in the slotted base plate holes. (see figure 1)

fig1.jpg

6) Rotate the motor to the right to relieve the belt tension and remove belt from motor pulley

7) After belt is removed from motor pulley, rotate motor to the left as far as possible to assure cam bar clearance.

8) The spin cam bar must be advanced to the spin position. Push up on the spin control solenoid plunger and rotate the main drive pulley until the cam bar advances to the spin position.

9) Remove the brake yoke spring from the gear case cover and yok. (see figure 2)

fig2.jpg


10) Remove completely the 3 support braces attached to the gear case and base plate. (see figure 3)

11) Remove the 2 pump mounting bolts. The pump hoses do not have to be disturbed. (see figure 3)

12) Remove the gear case mounting stud which has the spacer. remove spacer (see figure 2). Loosen the remaining 2 gear case mounting studs approximately 7 turns. (see figure 3).

fig3.jpg

13) Remove yoke retainer from yoke support. (see figure 2 for the types of yoke retainer).

14) The gear case can now be pulled down so that the belt can be slipped out between the top of of the clutch shaft and the clutch yoke. (see figure 4) and then through the space beneath the short stud; drop the belt from around the gear case.

fig4.jpg

15) Reverse the procedure in steps 15 & 13 to install the new belt.

16) Replace the pump making certain the pump lever is engaged in the notch in the agitator cam bar before securing the pump to the gear case ( see figure 5).

fig5.jpg

17) Grasp the bottom loop of the yoke spring with a pair of pliers and engage the spring with the hole in the upper gear case cover (see figure 2).

18) Replace spacer in short gear case mounting stud. Tighten the 3 gearcase mounting bolts ( finger tight only ). Next, set the machine upright and tighten the gear case mounting bolts securely. This procedure will allow the superstructure to properly align itself with the center post bearing.

19) Lay the machine on it's front to mount the 3 support braces to the gearcase baseplate. Tighten the bolts securely.

20) To adjust the belt tension properly, position the belt over the pulleys. Insert a hammer handle or some other lever between the motor mounting brackets. Rotate the motor to the left as far as it will go. Tighten the nuts holding the motor mounting bracket. Check the tension of the belt, it should deflect about 1/2 inch. (see figure 1).

21) Set machine upright. Reinstall the agitator, agitator cap, service panel, water hoses and connect electrical supply.

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1answer

How to get the half shaft out

Halfshaft -sorry but the diagrams didn't paste into the fixya.com window, just the text. Also, this was for a 3.2L engine.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
    this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Negative battery cable
    • Front wheel
    • Radiator skid plate
    • Transfer case skid plate
    • Brake calipers and mounting bracket
    • Brake rotor
    • Wheel speed sensor
    • Steering knuckle

  3. Support the axle housing with a jack. Unbolt the axle mounting bracket and
    remove the halfshaft/bracket assembly.
    To install:

  4. Install or connect the following:

    • Axle/bracket assembly. Tighten the bracket flange bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (116
      Nm) and the bracket mounting bolts to 112 ft. lbs. (152 Nm).
    • Steering knuckle
    • Wheel speed sensor
    • Brake rotor
    • Brake caliper and mounting bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to 115 ft.
      lbs. (155 Nm).
    • Transfer case skid plate. Tighten the bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
    • Radiator skid plate. Tighten the bolts to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
    • Front wheel
    • Negative battery cable

  5. Check the wheel alignment and adjust as necessary.





    Fig. 1: Exploded view of the left halfshaft, axle shaft and
    axle disconnect
    7924bg26.gif






    Fig. 2: Exploded view of the right halfshaft and mounting
    bracket
    9308bg03.gif



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0helpful
1answer

How do i take the steering box off my 1996 oldsmobile lss 3.8

Power Steering Gear
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the front suspension to hang
    freely.
  2. Remove both front tire and wheel assemblies.
    CAUTION
    Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft
    from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear
    and/or intermediate shaft. This damage may cause a loss of steering control and
    possibly, personal injury.
    NOTE: The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the
    steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or
    intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR
    coil assembly to become uncentered, which will damage the coil.




  3. If equipped, move the intermediate shaft cover upward, then unfasten the
    intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
  4. Using a suitable puller, separate both tie rod ends from the steering
    knuckles.
  5. Position a suitable drain pan under the power steering fluid lines. Remove
    the power steering fluid line retainer, then disconnect the outlet and inlet
    hoses from the steering gear. Allow the fluid to drain, then plug the lines to
    avoid contaminating the system.





    Fig. 1: Power steering fluid line routing - non-supercharged
    engine shown
    89638g48.gif






    Fig. 2: Power steering gear inlet hose orientation -
    non-supercharged engines
    89638g49.gif






    Fig. 3: Power steering hose routing and orientation -
    supercharged engine shown
    89638g50.gif



  6. Remove the steering gear assembly-to-chassis mounting bolts.
  7. Support the body with suitable jackstands to allow for the lowering of the
    frame.
  8. Loosen the front frame mounting bolts.
  9. Remove the rear frame bolts, then lower the rear of the frame about 3 inches
    (76mm).
    WARNING
    Do not lower the frame too far, or you could
    damage the engine components nearest the cowl.


  10. Remove the steering gear assembly by maneuvering it through the left wheel
    well opening.





    Fig. 4: Power steering gear mounting, with retainer tightening
    sequence and specifications
    89638g51.gif

    To install:

  11. Install the rack and pinion assembly into the vehicle, maneuvering it
    through the left wheel well opening.
  12. Raise the rear of the frame, then install the frame bolts and tighten to 76
    ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
  13. Install the rack and pinion assembly-to-chassis bolts. Tighten the rack
    mounting bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
  14. Remove the jackstands.
  15. Apply Loctite® thread locking kit 1052624, or equivalent thread locking
    compound to the steering gear mounting bolts.
  16. Install the steering gear mounting bolts, and washers, then tighten the
    retainers to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) in the sequence shown in the accompanying
    figure.
  17. Unplug and attach the power steering gear outlet and inlet hoses, then
    tighten the fittings to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  18. Install the power steering fluid line retainer.
  19. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the nuts to 35
    ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Tighten the nut up to an additional
    1?6 turn,
    or to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) to align the cotter pin slot. Do not loosen the nut to
    install the cotter pin.
  20. Install the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt and tighten to 35
    ft. lbs. (47 Nm). If equipped, move the intermediate shaft cover upward into
    position.
  21. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies, then carefully lower the
    vehicle.
  22. Refill the power steering pump reservoir, then bleed the power steering
    system and check for leaks.
  23. Take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop and have the front end alignment
    checked and adjusted as necessary.


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4answers

I have a 2000 all-wheel-drive, the rear drive shaft is broken. I can't find the manual that covers Chrysler all-wheel-drive, it looks like the ABS monitor in it, and something from the transmission...

place a jack under the transmission and raise it a bit unbolt (the transmission mount) "i think thats what u mean its all i know that above the transmission holding it in place. You'll need a rachet wrench for this and a long onbe at that,, if not you can use a piece of pipe,, you'll want the extra power.. Unbolt it and lift it off,, if its still too tight jack the transmission up a bit.That providing your refering to the transmissing mounting rubber Which is all i can think you man its the only thing above the transmission. The ABS is 2 parts ,, its a mastercylinder and a booster. Its mounted on the firewall (its the thing you pour brake fluid in.) Unjack any wire or hoses by unscrewiung them and pluging them with something.. DUCT TAAPE or rescue tape works.. Unbloth both the mastercylinder and booster from the firewall... unmounting the drive shat.. well you'll see where it bolts ,, front and back.. Thats the easir part.. you will heed o happer, pull and tug the shaft until it pops out.. Hope I was helpful.. if you need more help please feel free to ask.
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