Foot peg easily spins on mounting shaft, can't toghten
SOURCE: 79 sportster left side upper motor mount bolt size
On the Ironhead Sportster, the top motor mount bolt that goes through the frame is usually a 1/2 inch bolt. I'd use a grade 8 fine thread bolt with a nylok nut on it. Make sure you "shim" the top motor mount to the frame with the appropiate amount of washers so as not to "torque" the frame. If you do, either the top motor mount or the tab on the frame will break from the torque and vibration.
SOURCE: Frame Specs
1 1/8 inch. to check,make two cuts 1 1/8 inch apart 1'' long in a piece of card board fold back the tab you created,now you have a gauge.ride safe.
SOURCE: i want to put a set of pegs on the upper shock
Have you tried V-Twin Manufacturing? They've got just about anything one could want. The only thing is that their stuff is mostly made in Tiawan. But, then so is everything else you buy these days.
SOURCE: I have a FLTHI 2004
I have a 1965 FL that has the exact same design for the shift lever. You may think it's a bad design but when something last 45 years, it can't be too bad. You're shifter may just need a bit of tweaking. If you have a "heel and toe" type shifters that are two pieces, make sure they're adjusted so the side to side slack is minimal. If the shifter and the shift lever on the backside are one piece units, loosen the clamp bolts and adjsut them for the least amount of side to side freeplay. If this is alright but there is too much side to side slack, use get aftermarket spring washers that will tighten the shifter shaft up. Now, if the bushing is worn out, you can replace that as well.
Good Luck
Steve
SOURCE: i have a 75 flh
Yes, this is where the passenger foot peg on the left side of the bike goes. There is an arm that clamps onto the round stub on the inspection cover and is afjustable to almost any angle. The right side foot peg support bolts to the end of the transmission and also has an adfustable arm that clamps onto a stub on it. Then the pegs go on the end of the arms. Go to this site and take a look . http://www.bikebandit.com/1975-harley-davidson-flh-1200/o/m770#sch171752 I'm pretty sure they didn't move the peg brackets to the seat tubes of the frame until 1977. If your bike has two holes in a welded-on tab on the rear of the down tubes behind the primary and the transmission, you can use the later model peg brackets. But, if your bike has no holes in the frame or the swingarm for passenger peg brackets, this is the only style you can use and stay original. You could fabricate and weld on tabs to later model peg brackets or use clamp on brackets and pegs.
Good Luck
Steve
6) Rotate the motor to the right to relieve the belt tension and remove belt from motor pulley
7) After belt is removed from motor pulley, rotate motor to the left as far as possible to assure cam bar clearance.
8) The spin cam bar must be advanced to the spin position. Push up on the spin control solenoid plunger and rotate the main drive pulley until the cam bar advances to the spin position.
9) Remove the brake yoke spring from the gear case cover and yok. (see figure 2)
10) Remove completely the 3 support braces attached to the gear case and base plate. (see figure 3)
11) Remove the 2 pump mounting bolts. The pump hoses do not have to be disturbed. (see figure 3)
12) Remove the gear case mounting stud which has the spacer. remove spacer (see figure 2). Loosen the remaining 2 gear case mounting studs approximately 7 turns. (see figure 3).
13) Remove yoke retainer from yoke support. (see figure 2 for the types of yoke retainer).
14) The gear case can now be pulled down so that the belt can be slipped out between the top of of the clutch shaft and the clutch yoke. (see figure 4) and then through the space beneath the short stud; drop the belt from around the gear case.
15) Reverse the procedure in steps 15 & 13 to install the new belt.
16) Replace the pump making certain the pump lever is engaged in the notch in the agitator cam bar before securing the pump to the gear case ( see figure 5).
17) Grasp the bottom loop of the yoke spring with a pair of pliers and engage the spring with the hole in the upper gear case cover (see figure 2).
18) Replace spacer in short gear case mounting stud. Tighten the 3 gearcase mounting bolts ( finger tight only ). Next, set the machine upright and tighten the gear case mounting bolts securely. This procedure will allow the superstructure to properly align itself with the center post bearing.
19) Lay the machine on it's front to mount the 3 support braces to the gearcase baseplate. Tighten the bolts securely.
20) To adjust the belt tension properly, position the belt over the pulleys. Insert a hammer handle or some other lever between the motor mounting brackets. Rotate the motor to the left as far as it will go. Tighten the nuts holding the motor mounting bracket. Check the tension of the belt, it should deflect about 1/2 inch. (see figure 1).
21) Set machine upright. Reinstall the agitator, agitator cap, service panel, water hoses and connect electrical supply.
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