The switch as been replaced with a brand new one but the problem still exsists
There are three possible sources of power. 1. The light control assay is a module that determines when to cut power to the lights when at idle or starting the engine... it can fail and prevent power from going to the lights. 2. The CDI. It sends a signal to the Light Control Module... if no signal, no lights. 3. The light switch. The wires can get lose and prevent power from going to the LCM. Start at the Switches. Test for power from the switch, if no power from the switch, make sure power is going to the switch. Flip the switch from low to hi beam too, test both lines. The CDI is a bit trickier to test but there is a wire to the LCM that can be powered when the bike is running (a bad CDI is diagnosed after everything else though as it is difficult to test and very unusual to happen). If power is going to the LCM, that rules out the switches. If you confirm power to the LCM, and power from the CDI (a signal from it at least), then its a bad LCM. But check your light bulbs before doing anything. If you bypass the LCM on an American bike (connecting the blue wire to the LCM to the blue wire from the LCM together), it will blow the fuse but some European and Phillipine models work without the LCM. LCM's and CDI's aren't cheap so have a professional confirm the parts are bad before replacing.
As far as the Lights going out when throttle is applied, that indicates something at the LCM. At idle, the CDI sends a signal to the LCM which switches to a lower voltage line, which dims the bulb from the higher voltage line (to be clear, that are both 12 volt lines but I am simplifying it). The "higher" voltage line is getting no power if your lights turn off when the LCM switches to it. I found I had to apply significant pressure and slightly bend metal tabs to get a better connection to fix the problem. I diagnosed by pushing the lines in on the LCM (mounted upside down and wrapped in a large rubber band). By pushing in while revving the engine, the lights would flicker on (and back off when I released the pressure). After 300 miles the problem repeated for me so I took it apart again and tried to pull the wires through a little more... Still pending effectiveness.
All my connections are now secure but my lights would occasionally turn off suddenly when at top speed. The lights turn back on at idle. Basically it was working on the 6 volt signal and stopped working on the 12 volt signal. This is the CDI. Turn off the engine and turn it back on to reset the CDI and the headlights should return to normal function. I found it only happens when holding the throttle fully open while at top speed. It is a glitch with the built in limiter in the CDI. New CDI's do the same thing but I have read that some don't so it sounds like a quality control problem from Kymco. The cheapest fix is to back off from full throttle once you get to top speed. If your lights do go off while moving at night, turn on your blinker to see something of the road and turn the key switch of and back on. The headlights should work once you reset the CDI.
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I have a super 8 125 and the headlights are stuck on all the time. Even when I turn off the ignition causing the battery to go flat. I have had to disconnect the battery each time I turn it off. Can anyone offer me some advice please??
SOURCE: kymco people 150 when i push the starter button
The starter relay needs replaced. If you follow the + wire from the battery, it goes into a box with a + wire on the other side of it. If you jump power across the two wires, it should start
SOURCE: Replace regulator/rectifier with a different brand?
Not always necessary to change the regulator/rectifier. Check all connections to make sure they are clean, use a good contact cleaner and finish off with dielectric grease on your electrical connections.
When some bikes get a few years on them the connections get dirty. Check to see if there are any burned or discolored wires anywhere around the regulator. The FIX on some bikes is to cut the connector completely out and solder the wires together and either seal them with heat shrink of a good electrical tape. Loose or bad connections get hot. As long as the regulator and rectifier are working there is no need to replace them if the connections are good.
Ride Safely, Ed
SOURCE: Hi My Kymco model is
Hi Bryan, it does sound like the battery, if it is a 12 Volt system, just connect a set of jumper leads from a 12 Volt battery, another bike car etc. and see if it makes a difference, i think you will find everything works fine with a new battery.
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i believe it might be the cdi unit but am unsure where this located ?
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