Excessive noise from camshaft after head reconditioning and correct adjustment both standard setting and allowing for head being shaved - to no effect on a daihatsu charade 1991 G100

do you mean ignition or valve timing? the ignition timing you cannot adjust it is ecu controlled. the valve timing has to be set by locking the crankshaft using a special locking tool that fits in place of the crankshaft position sensor located in the lower flywheel housing and keeps no.1 cylinder on tdc. and two locking bars bolted over the front of the camshafts to keep them in the correct positions, the camshaft sprockets are not keyed to the camshafts to allow adjustment. you need the special tools to carry out this operation, hope this helps.

There is a pressure relief valve in the pump that allows excessive pressure to bleed out and so not lock up the pump. This is spring loaded so I would be checking the spring tension as the noise may be the valve vibrating from repeated unloading of the pressure more rapidly than it should . It will go when the steering is being turned but will reappear when the wheel movement is stopped . As power steering pumps are the same as sump pumps ( 2 spur gears in a case ) they are mostly un repairable as when the case is worn there is excessive clearance between the teeth and the body and the teeth of the gears will have excessive back lash . As one gear is on a shaft and the other gear is driving from the pulley any misalignment will cause problems as the gears will tend to be out of mesh. It is always best to replace a pump with a new item and not reconditioned as they are seldom repaired correctly.

HI if the noise comes and goes when you accelerate or decelerate you may be dealing whit the ring and pinion needs adjustment or is going out, remove the rear cover and check for excess metal shavings,Hope this help

Suggest you check your exhaust on startup, is it very steamed up. Unless you see fluid on the ground after you have been driving, it may be being burnt inside the engine via a leaking head gasket, causing part of the head to misfire, 1 or 2 cyls. Is the oil milky? a sure sign of a leaking manifold gasket. At the end of the day, the coolant must be going somewhere, if its not on the floor, its in the head/manifold. A manifold leak is not so bad, Head gasket is not so good..worth doing a compression test and block test if you can.Also, change the oil again and put in at lest 10W-30 weight, your car is too old for 5/20 5/30...Hope that helps..Tim

Recommended by kia is 100,000 km.

Timing Belt: Service and Repair
TIMING BELT
COMPONENT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Loosen power steering lock bolts and nuts accordingly and remove tension from Power Steering (P/S) and/or Air Conditioning (A/C) compressor
drive belt.
3. Remove P/S and/or A/C drive belt.
4. Loosen generator mounting bolts and adjusting bolt.
5. Remove generator bolts.
6. Remove water pump pulley.
7. Remove crankshaft pulley and timing belt guide plate.
8. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.
9. Turn crankshaft so that timing mark on timing belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine.
10. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on cylinder head cover and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned
with mark on cylinder head cover.
NOTE: Do not move camshaft or crankshaft once timing marks have been correctly positioned.
11. Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt.
12. Protect timing belt with a rag.
13. Remove tensioner pulley.
14. Remove timing belt.
NOTE: Mark the direction of timing belt rotation (on the timing belt) for proper reinstallation.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Never forcefully twist, turn inside out or bend timing belt. Do not allow oil or grease to come in contact with timing belt.
1. Replace timing belt if it is contaminated with oil or grease.
2. Check timing belt for uneven wear, fraying, peeling, cracking and hardening. Replace timing belt as necessary.
3. Bend timing belt into a "U" shape as shown in figure. Distance "A" must be at least 1.0 inch (25 mm).
4. Inspect both idler pulley and tensioner pulley for uneven wear and smooth bearing operation.
5. Inspect camshaft pulleys and timing belt pulley for broken teeth or damage.
NOTE: Replace any component that shows damage, excessive wear, or that appears prone to a possible failure.
INSTALLATION
1. Install tensioner pulley.
NOTE: Replace tensioner spring whenever timing belt is replaced.
2. Pull tensioner pulley to its furthest point and tighten lock bolt.
3. Check that timing mark on timing belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine.
4. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on cylinder head cover and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned
with mark on cylinder head cover.
NOTE: If existing timing belt is being reused, install belt in proper rotation direction marked prior to removal.
5. Install timing belt onto timing belt pulley first, then idler pulley, exhaust camshaft pulley, intake camshaft pulley, and tensioner pulley in that
order.
6. Check that there is no looseness in belt between idler pulley and exhaust camshaft pulley or between intake and exhaust camshaft pulleys.
7. Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt and allow tensioner spring to apply tension to timing belt.
NOTE: Do not add additional tension.

8. Tighten tensioner pulley lock bolt to specified torque.
Tightening torque: 28 - 38 ft. lbs. (38 - 51 Nm, 3.9 - 5.2 kg-m)
9. Rotate crankshaft two full revolutions (clockwise only) and align timing mark on timing belt pulley with timing mark on engine block.
10. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley are aligned with marks on cylinder head cover.
11. If they are not aligned, remove timing belt and start process from tensioner installation.
12. Measure timing belt deflection by applying moderate pressure midway between camshaft pulleys. If deflection is not correct, repeat from
tensioner installation.
Deflection pressure: 22 lb. (98 N, 10 kg)
Deflection: 0.39 - 0.50 inch (11 - 13 mm)
13. Install lower and upper timing belt covers in that order.
Tightening torque: 5.8 - 8.0 ft. lbs. (7.9 - 10.7 Nm, 0.8 - 1.1 kg-m)
14. Install timing belt guide plate and crankshaft pulley.
Tightening torque: 9.0 - 12.6 ft. lbs. (12.3 - 17.2 Nm, 1.3 - 1.8 kg-m)
15. Install water pump pulley.
Tightening torque: 9.0 - 12.6 ft. lbs. (12.3 - 17.2 Nm, 1.3 - 1.8 kg-m)
16. install generator belt and adjust the tension.
17. Install P/S and/or A/C drive belt and adjust the tension.
18. Connect negative battery cable.

Because the reason it slipped is it has stretched out beyond service limit.Setting it back would only allow it to slip again.

The automatic valve adjustor not allow you to set the valve gap.If it is making bad noise then it needs replacement.When changing valve lifters, it is recommended that the lifters are allowed to "settle/seat" for a minimum of 30 minutes to allow excess oil to drain. If this recommendation is not followed, some valves will make contact with the piston, resulting in the valve to break at the collet groove. It is also ideal if the engine is allowed to rest over night before starting the engine for the first time. If possible, the engine should be hand cranked or turned by hand the first time.

fifth gear is wearing change box or get it reconditioned

you will need to buy a repair manual at a parts store it is hard to describe how to set timing with out photos .

The have puck looking followers that take up the excessive back lash.