SOURCE: 2005 Nissan Armada
the fact that they tested your battery to be good but low indicates that your alternator is not charging properly. have it check before it destroys your battery.
SOURCE: 97 Nissan Pick-up truck, fuel pump removal
You're welcome, hate to see anyone cut the truck up.
SOURCE: 2000 Nissan XTerra Electrical Probs
I was told by a loca mechanic that Nissa has had problems with electrical grounding for some time. Ii had a 1997 Altima that I intened to drive forever but finally gave up at (only) 90,000 miles. It went through 4 alternators in three years. Also a corroded radiator. The mechanic said Nissan has used the engine block as a ground, since cards today don't have the old-fashioned frame rails. Any loosening or other disturbance to that engine block ground will cause electriclaly-charged coolant to flow throughout the system: definition of elctrolysis. I don't if this applies to 2000-and-beyond vehicles, but it did in the 90s. Elsewhere in this section someone posted a ground solution (Maxima) that looks good. These are great vehicles, but if you have one (any make) with a persistent electrical glitch it can be one of the most frustrating and costly problems to fix.
SOURCE: i have a 2001 nissan sentra that battery tests
Hello, Thanks for looking me up. It is story time. From my 25 years plus experience, even if alternator test fine, or battery test fine it does not mean it is fine. Here is the deal, a lot of times, a battery will test OK, but to have it test right it needs to be put under a load. There are meters to do this, and same with alternator. First thing I would do and have done, Is if you car started, get it to a battery exchange place. I am sure in your area, you have these places all over. There little battery shops that only service or sell batteries and alternators,
Advantage to that is, they can put your car under a load, and test your out put of the battery, and alternator, to make sure they are producing the amps it needs to charge. Now, this is after you take some time and check your alternator belt, to make sure it is tight and not slipping, and follow the wires from there down to the battery. Make sure all your connection are good and clean and tight. Sometimes the positive lead going to the battery from alternator, might have a inline fuse in it, and check it, and replace if needed, Check to make sure the ground wire from your battery is clean and the part that is bolted on the frame of the negative from battery is clean service and tight. One thing I am going to ad here, that i did not see mentioned, is sometimes the connection lead to the starter, cause a draw or back ark of amps via the battery, which also will cause battery to drain. Kind of like playing tug a war.Meaning if the leads going to the starter are bad connection could also cause a draw via the 12 volt system. Utilize places, like fire stone, sears, or even those little battery/alternator quick shops I was telling you about, as they have all that fancy testing equipment to pin point it. AND another fact I will let you know, did you know alternators if getting worn will fluctuate , meaning will work and then not work and work and not work. So, sometimes a guy will check the alternator and test good at the time, but then sometimes it doesn't. I hope this helps Mike
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