SOURCE: I recently added a kuryakyn hypercharger on my sportster
The worm clamp proly did choke off the breather. Usually when oil comes out of your breathers it means there is to much oil in your oil tank.
SOURCE: I have a 2000 1200 custom sportster. It leaks oil
if the oil tank is above the crank case,
inspect the oil pump check valve. go online and study the check valve's functional purpose and see to it that the vale is operating properly. it should not be an expensive fix.
if you reroute hose be carefull of rear tire annnd what does the oil level in the oil tank sit at when full and after the leak happens after -say a day of riding- a week
SOURCE: 2006 Harley ruff idle and hesitation acceleration
This sounds lean, from your description. The best way to set it is with an exhaust analyzer... Be sure to look for intake leaks also.
SOURCE: changed handle bars on 2009 flhx street glide -will not start
I would be inspecting the kill switch. Only thing on the bar that could be it other than the start button.
SOURCE: How do you change the rear tire on a 2008 Street
1) Remove hard bags.
2) Use a marker to mark a position of the belt tension cams on the axel. This will help you put the proper amount of tension on the drive belt when you put it all back together. The left cam is welded to the left side of the axel. The cams are used to tighten or loosen the belt tension. You will see what I'm talking about when you get there and look at it.
3) Remove the two bolts from the rear of the left side bag support. Then loosen the front bolt of the bag support. (Remove the left fusebox cover to access the front support bolt.) Lower the bag support. This is necessary to slide the rear axel out.
4) Remove the two banjo bolts from the rear brake bracket and slide off from the rotor. Support brake with something so you don't damage the brake line.
5) Look carefully at the spacers on the axel and note, along with the order.
6) Loosen the cone nut of the axel on the right side of the bike, but don't remove.
7) Use a bike jack to raise the bike so that the rear wheel is barely touching the ground. Just enough that you can turn the rear wheel and feel the treads rubbing the ground.
8) Remove the cone nut from the right side, along with the right alignment cam washer
9) Genlty tap the end of the axel from the right side of the bike until it slides out from the wheel hub.
10) Pull the axel from the left side, take note of IDS washer and spacer order and position.
11) Slowly jack up the bike until you can pull off the belt pulley...that also contains the IDS (Isolated Drive Sprocket) NOTE; Check that damned IDS bearing in the drive pulley. I have gone through 4 of those crappy bearings...usually every 10k. If the seal is broken on the IDS bearing, get it replaced. This is the wicked gremlin of the 08 FLHX. The rear IDS pulley should just pull away from the hub at this point.
12) Jack the bike up until you can roll the tire, or get it out from underneath the bike. Did I tell you to strap the bike so it doesn't fall over? Just in case ya'know.
It all goes on in the reverse order. I never mount the tire on the rim...I have someone else to that and the balancing. Make sure none of the rubber isolators in the drive pulley have fallen out. Once you have the axel back in, tighten the cone nut enough so that you can tighten the drive belt by turning the cams from the left side of the axel. Use the paint marks you put on the right side of the axel cam to get the drive belt tension where it was at the time you started this whole process. Tighten hand tight, then loosen one full turn, then tighten the cone nut on the right side to torque specs. (Damn, I can't remember what that was. I think 90 - 110 foot pounds but I can't say that with certainty. I think the brake bolts are 35 to 45 foot pounds.)
Hope the helps. You can get cheap PDF shop manuals online if you look hard enough. The best investment I have made was a Harley Shop Manual for the bike...but they ain't cheap.
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