Question about 2005 kawasaki KX 85
Water is mixing with the engine oil on my kx 85 the oil in my bike is mixing with water and I don't know the cause @
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous coolant in the oil usually only comes from a few places the following scenarios will help you decide which.
1. A blown head gasket will allow coolant to seep into the combustion chamber past the rings and into the bottom end mixing with engine oil causing it to look milky. It will also burn with the fuel charge and exit the exhaust as white smoke, in severe cases, it will drip coolant from a low slung muffler. There could be a loss of compression. Another tell-tale sign is the pressure from the combustion chamber will force coolant out of the overflow at the reservoir.
2. A faulty water pump caused by old age with bearing failure or a failed oil seal. The tell-tale signs are water leaking from the weep hole and complete loss of all coolant fairly quickly causing the engine to overheat.
3. A cracked cylinder wall or cracked cylinder head and the tell-tale signs are pretty much the same as a blown head gasket.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Coolant Leak Answer
Kawasaki KX85 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki KX85 Owner Manual
Posted on Aug 11, 2018
hi buddy for engine oil use silkolene comp 2 plus sx or silkolene comp 2 premix also for gear oil use silkolene light gear oil and for coolant use silkolene pro cool also mix the oil with a mixture bottle on ebay etc use 40:1 ratio
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
SOURCE: my bike wont stop smoking
If it's blue smoke, maybe an oil ring is broken. White smoke and water in the combustion chamber, black smoke carburation problems.
Posted on Feb 07, 2011
Testimonial: "thanks for helping me cold-boy "
SOURCE: kawasaki kx 85
You change the oil, you canhe the oil filter, you check the breaks, if needed changes them to, you check the lights so all lights are function, you check the tires so you have grip left on them ifthey are to much worn it can be very dangerus when you driving, check the suspension so they don leak.
Thats about it, takes a couple of hpurs do fix all that
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
Yes, the arrow should be facing forward. It is possible to find a small amount of oil in the crank. If the previous owner were using an odd oil/gas ratio like 32gas/3oil instead of the normal 32/1. The proper mix is four ounces two stroke engine oil to one gallon of gas. The more oil in the gas, the more oil in the crank. This odd mix usually happens if the owner doesn't know the proper mix, guesses the mix at the pump or just doesn't care what goes in so long as the bike still runs.
If you found condensation on the piston then the crank would have likely received the same blessing. Check the crank bearings.
Hold the flywheel in your hand. Lift it up and down then move it left and right. Any movement or is it rock solid? If movement then you will need to take the gearbox apart and install new crank bearings and seals. Put the old cylinder and piston back in place without the head for a moment. Put the bike on blocks so that the rear wheel is free to turn. Have someone rotate the rear wheel while you work the clutch and gears. If the gears don't want to shift smoothly then plan on installing a new shift fork or two. Now would be a good time for a new sprocket shaft bearing and seal as well. Don't forget a new foot shift shaft seal.
While you are doing repairs, de-carbon the head and cylinder. Run the piston down and check the exhaust port. Over the years carbon may have built up in the port and plugged it nearly closed. It should be about the size of the intake port. Remove the buildup to allow the engine to breathe.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Install an in-line fuel filter. Install a new stock NGK spark plug.
Drain and clean the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
I know this answer is more info than you asked for but I don't want you to have to go into the case more than once. Congratulations, you just rebuilt the entire engine.
Please rate this answer. Thanks Paulette!
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
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