SOURCE: 1985 Yamaha xj700 Maxim- Carb. fuel lines
yes, the breather line hooks to the petcock on the line facing the back, the fuel line hooks to the larger one. the line from the breather is actually a vacume line that turns on the fuel, without it you will not get fuel out of the petcock unless it is in the prime position.
SOURCE: gas runs out of from carburetor
if you suspect the float is stuck, grab a screwdriver and tap the carb float bowl with the handle. you should be able to see this from the bottom of the tank. hopefully this will unstick the float.
if it doesn't, then it will require removing the carb and taking the float bowl off and seeing if the float is adjusted properly.
SOURCE: How to check my oil level on 04 Yamaha yzf 600
YZF600R is a carbureted model. OIL: The oil sight glass is a round window, low on the right side. Very hard to try to see when astride the bike, even if you use a mirror on an extension rod. Have a friend hold the bike level,perhaps, while you check. Oil should be sighted after the bike has been sitting for a time after riding. I suggest using a good 10W-40 regular motorcycle oil (Least expensive around here in Boston is to buy Kawasaki by the gallon at Riverside) I found the pesky 1st-to-2nd shift to be more direct with this oil than with synthetic. I had plenty of opportunity to compare the two types. GAS: No reserve, but as noted, there is a low fuel light, in the row of lights that includes the neutral light and the high beam indicator. You ought to be getting over 50 m.p.g., so you can estimate your 'range' from that. I usually fill up again around the 180 mile period. I think I've seen the low fuel light once in 6 years of ownership. OH: I suggest you treat the gas, on a regular basis, with 'marine' Stabil, not the regular stuff. I have had a 'gummy' Yamaha Virago 250 to care for, that I thought would never clear its fuel problems. Last winter ('08-'09) stored it with the marine Stabil in the tank and run for a while to get it into the carbs also. Within a few minutes of running it this spring-actually a couple weeks ago- it smoothed out and has run fine since. I believe this HAS to be as a result of the treatment of the fuel (run through the carbs before the winter storage) with this special Stabil. It was recommended by Carlo at Riverside- I'll have to remember to thank him for the advice. N.B. I always change the fuel (siphon it out, put that Stabil'ed but 'old' stuff into my car tank, refill the bikes with fresh 93 octane) each Spring.
SOURCE: Carb Sync on an 01 YZF 600R
Here is a diagram showing the tubes you connect your vacuum gauges to.
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=326&B=11
The YZF600R is carbureted, so I do not know what you mean by throttle body adjustments.
Synchronizing carburetors means adjusting the throttle plates (butterflies) so that all cylinders are drawing the same amount of vacuum.
Here is a diagram of the carbs. Screw #31 is the screw used to change the sync.
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=326&B=13
Remember one other key point, all carbs are sync'ed to the #3 carb. You cannot change the vacuum (directly) on #3. It is usually best to start by syncing #2 to #3, then #4, then #1. Changing #2 can affect the sync on #1 so you definitely want to do 1 after 2 no matter what. If you have one cylinder WAY out of sync, that would be an exception to the previous rule where you would want to attempt to get that cylinder in the ball park of the others before fine tuning each cylinder.
Syncing the carbs is an alternating process between adjusting the vacuum then adjusting the idle. If they were out of sync, bringing them back in, or even getting close, can cause the idle to raise because the engine isn't fighting itself anymore. Always keep the engine idling @ 1100 rpm's while syncing.
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