Stalls when giving gas

SOURCE: Hard starting when cold, runs rough at idle and any steady speed.

Your carburetors need to be cleaned. The pilot jets are at least partially plugged.

If you are comfortable doing this yourself, you need to remove the seats, fuel tank, and air induction system before you will be able to get the carbs out. Be carefull when removing the fuel tank, there is a wire harness that will need to be un plugged from it to remove it. The wire harness plug runs under the plastic tray under the seat. There are 3 plastic rivits that will need to be removed to get to the plug. The carbs come out as a pair, and can be tough to get back in the boots.

You need to remove the float bowls, remove the jets, and blow carb cleaner and compressed air through them all. The pilot jets are most likely the only culprit, but you might as well clean everything if your going to all the trouble. You should also blow carb cleaner and compressed air through all of the other passages while your at it. Make sure that you can see through the jets and there is no debris left in them. Make sure to clean the floats, needle valves, and float bowls as well.

Then re-assemble

This happens when the bike sits for long periods. The fuel we get now days has a very short shelf life before it goes bad. Fuel oxydizes over time, and it happens even faster in a small amount that is vented which is exactly as it is when its in the carburetors of a motorcycle. When fuel oxydizes and evaporates, it leaves a gummy mess behind. The pilot jets are the smallest passages that sit in the fuel, so they naturally plug first.

You can prevent this by keeping fuel stabilizer in your fuel when ever the bike will be sitting for long periods of time. Myself personally, when I store one for the winter, I like to leave the carbs empty.

Jay Henderson

• 261 Answers
• Posted on Dec 07, 2008

SOURCE: motor bike wont rev above idle weth choke on

This to me sounds like you need a carb cleaning. If you have let the bike sit for an extended time the carberators maybe clogged or gummed up. This has to do with the new gas that is out there now. It is cheap and with the introduction of Ethanol alcohol now it is even worse on being stable for long periods of time. I have seen fuel go bad in as little as 3 weeks.. One quick check you can do is open you fuel tank and smell the fuel. IF it smells like varnish it is probably bad. You can drain the tank and add new fuel and that should solve your problem. Keep in mind, that the carbs need to be drained as well to get the old fuel out of there also. Make sure you have a battery charger going when you start crankin that puppy, because you will need lots of extra juice to get that baby to fire up. If it is starting now and runs on choke, that means your idle jets are clogged. Best repair is to remove carbs and clean idle jet. Unless it is fuel injected.
Let me know how that goes and we can proceed from this point. I am a certified mechanic from MMI as well as a HDTV GURU. Smiles. have a good one.

SOURCE: engine idles fine, stalls soon as its given gas

Hi there!

Open up the carb and clean the jets with pressurized air. I also suspect water on the carburetor reservoir, before opening the carb, drain it first then run. Also, make sure the plugs are clean. Pull on the choke when twisting the accelerator, if it accelerates well, then warm the beast at normal temperature first before twisting the throttle hard again.

hope this helps-
levibit-

SOURCE: stalls once warmed up

I have the same bike, Ca. model. Idon't know how much work you have put into the carbs, but you may have more than one problem. You can pull the pet ****, disassemble it and check to be sure the diaphragm is not sticking (i.e. due to moisture getting into it and setting and not running it enough to fully dry out everything, ) you can be a little rough with it, cause if it fails, it needed to be replaced, It works off a vacuum tube off cyl 2 and once vacuum is established, it opens the valve-- hence you don't have to turn the valve to "off" to prevent fuel from seeping into the carbs n flooding them while it sits .Pull the diaphragm n stretch it a little with the sun or bright light behind it to check for tiny pin holes. One tiny pin hole will mess with things in funny ways. Replace ir they're cheap.The whole pet **** as a unit--- cheap enough anyway. Then as with most small displacement older bikes the carbs have to be treated like royalty. Pull em and cleanem. Check for proper float height, this allows for proper fuel levels in the carb,small discrepancies will disturb the movement of fuel and there are four planets that have to be aligned throuhg all this to end up happy down the road. If the float pins n springs are worn replacem they do one thing only -- start the process. Then pull each jet n **** them with the exact pin drill for that jet, if a tiny bit of varnish or dirt comes out off the drill--- you just saved private Ryan. You could take the time to run the carbs (as a unit don't separate them) to a local bike place n pay to have them ultrasonically clean them along with all you do , while your in there you might as well get the rebuild kit n go for it. Then check for worn throttle valves, the pressures and speeds of fuel in its liquid state are crazy in a carb and will wear the finely measured distances between the valve and the body. Very complex and moody stuff that only gets moodier with age , like my old lady. This is all doable at home If not take the time to find the guy who works on the older Japanese bikes because they will know what you NEED to do n what you don't. Then after the carbs are back in, the synching begins. No synching no bikeing. The guy that has a manometer and an isolator rod is not the guy you should have for this. Someone with a manometer, an isolator, and an emissions machine is your guy. The fuels then are not the same as the fuels now. Remember leaded fuel? Anyway at the end of all this you will have fixed the problem, and that old bike will be a hot rod. AND it will PURR. Hold on when you hit the magic 7000. This is a major minor job that will permanently fix you to your bike.
Good luck don't forget new vacuum hoses and fuel lines and the filter n look for air leaks in the air box the old plastic warps, and new plugs........

SOURCE: starts fine then stalls when I give it any gas

if it only runs w/choke on then your jets are plugged...fuel should have been drained before storage...time for carb clean i suspect...Tim