Fuel gage quit, turn signals canceler quit, fuel pump quit, won't start

Are the injectors getting power and a ground signal from the computer ?

There would be a fuel pump fuse, either under dash or under hood. Check that fuse, use the test light to see if fuse has power. If not, then it might be a fusible link or maxi-fuse that feeds the fuse panel. If fuse has power with key on, pull the relay, and use the test light and probe relay terminals, key off. One terminal should be hot at all times. If not, check for power loss between battery and relay terminal-possibly a maxi-fuse or fuse link.
If relay does have power to terminal, quickly check other terminals while someone turns key to on-for about 2 seconds, another terminal should show power-this would be signal from computer to turn the relay on to prime the lines and fuel rail. If you have that, plug relay in and cycle key. Does relay click? If yes, relay is working and problem may be at fuel pump connector. If relay is not working, but you have power to it, and the short signal from computer is there, then check the relay's coil side ground. Computer signals the coil side and the signal goes to ground from relay coil side.
Pull the relay and use a jumper wire from relay's hot terminal to fuel pump terminal-the wire to pump from the relay. If pump comes on, the problem is right there at the relay-either no signal from computer or the relay coil's ground is lost. If pump does not come on, again check connector at pump-that or the wire to pump[ has a problem.

no, not likely. And a dry hose is a good sign, but a hose wet with gas is a sure sign of a failed pressure regulator. Your problem may be the pump not priming the fuel system. Here's how it is supposed to work: when you turn the key to on, computer will signal the fuel pump relay to turn on for about two seconds, and without a cranking signal from the engine, computer will then turn the pump off. When key is turned to crank, the computer will then turn pump back on-when engine is cranking or running, the pump is on continuously. But just turning the key to on, you should hear the pump run for about two seconds, and that will pressurize the fuel system.
At those times when it doesn't want to start, you should test the fuel pressure to see if the fuel rail is pressurized. If no pressure or low pressure, diagnose the wiring at the fuel pump relay. The relay is very simple- 4 prongs, 2 on the power side, and 2 on the coil side. The power side has a hot at all times wire and then the wire going to the pump. The coil side of the relay has a wire from the engine computer, and the other coil side wire is a ground. When the coil side is energtized by the wire from the computer, the relay is switched on and will pass power from the hot wire to the pump. So if the pump doesn't come on briefly to prime the system, the computer may not be signalling the relay, or there is a wiring problem around the relay. Good luck. You might just try a different relay-maybe yours is sticky and not responding.

The computer grounds the fuel pump relay for 3 seconds to boost fuel pressure on start-up. If the computer does not see oil pressure or RPM it will not continue to ground the relay.
You would need to bypass the relay and see if the pump continues to run, then check the relay and the ground signal from the computer.
The gas gauge problem may be connected or something different.
The connector at the gas tank may be faulty which would affect both the power for the pump and the fuel gauge sending unit.

Hi there:
You will have to pinpoint what the engine is missing... Spark / Fuel / Compression

All three of these are tested when the engine is being cranked over. There are two way of checking for fuel. Fuel pressure and fuel trigger. Both are very important and must be present for the engine to start. Fuel pressure is self explanatory. You just hook up the gage and see what the reading is. Fuel trigger is check with a noid light. The injector gets unplugged and the noid light gets plugged in to the injector clip. With the engine cranking over, this light must blink. This is the signal to the injectors from the computer. You can have all the fuel pressure in the world, but it wont matter if the injector is not pulsing gas into the cylinder like it should.

Compression tester, spark tester, fuel pressure gage and noid light are all accessible at your local auto store. All three tests play a very important part in diagnosing a no start condition. Be extremely careful when doing these tests.

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The power control module sends signal to the fuel pump relay, it gets it's signal from the pick up coil in the distributor and the crankshaft position sensor. I'm having the same issues with my 94 Jeep Wrangler

You will have to pinpoint what the engine is missing...
- Spark
- Fuel
- Compression

All three of these are tested when the engine is being cranked over. There are two way of checking for fuel. Fuel pressure and fuel trigger. Both are very important and must be present for the engine to start. Fuel pressure is self explanatory. You just hook up the gage and see what the reading is. Fuel trigger is check with a noid light. The injector gets unplugged and the noid light gets plugged in to the injector clip. With the engine cranking over, this light must blink. This is the signal to the injectors from the computer. You can have all the fuel pressure in the world, but it wont matter if the injector is not pulsing gas into the cylinder like it should.

Compression tester, spark tester, fuel pressure gage and noid light are all accessible at your local auto store. All three tests play a very important part in diagnosing a no start condition. Be extremely careful when doing these tests.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

I had a Cadillac under warrantee & had to tell the
dealer what to do,so you know my feelings about them

I suspect the fuel pump failed

The pump running doesn't tell you anything

A pressure gauge on the shrader valve, on the
engine will be a good start & you could drive it
with the gauge taped to the windshield

So all these shops & a dealer,just told you to go home
they don't care? Sadly I know the routine

No you have to make sure your just looking for fuel &
not a bad crank sensor etc. If you get no crank signal
the fuel pump will time out after 10 seconds or whatever

You have to find the right shop,apparently not an easy
feat in your area.

Some vehicles need an oil pressure switch to actuate
the fuel pump

I am just throwing out generic suggestions here,not nec
your cars systems

install a fuel pump guage and check pressure at key on and start, it should hardly vary, it the pressure is constant check the injector signal with a noid light, while you are at it check spark(no spark no injector signal) you won't find a relay fuse

You could have a bad fuel pump relay switch. The fuel pump relay switch gets the fuel pump running in the vehicle during the start cycle. The terms fuel pump relay and fuel pump relay switch are used interchangeably. The fuel pump relay begins its job when the automobile operator turns to the ignition on, but before the motor is actually running. At that point, the fuel pump relay in some cars sends a signal to the ignition switch, which in turn sends a signal to the fuel pump to turn on. Others fuel pump relays have actual circuitry inside of them that receive the ignition signal and directly signal the fuel pump to engage.

Have a great day!