No power to key switch;

If the security system has been reset ( no light on/flashing ) you may have a neutral safety switch problem, Will the vehicle crank over in neutral? In most cases, the neutral switch grounds the starter relay and allows it to operate. Does the starter relay connector have 2 powers? One constant and one with key on/cranking? If these power supplies are there, suspect the ground side of the relay to be the problem and possible neutral safety switch

I think the purple wire (or maybe the yellow) from the neutral safety switch goes to the coil side of the starter relay, turning it on so power is sent from there to the starter solenoid. You could check for this signal to the relay with a test light. The key must be held in start while you probe the other two terminals for the relay. If the signal is there, either a bad relay or the coil side of relay is not grounded properly. It is possible that the coil side ground is the neutral safety switch-grounding the relay's coil side only in park or neutral-in which case the nagging light on shifter (between off and run, it only works?) may be telling you the safety switch is the problem.

You may need to look at a wiring diagram, Greg. But the starter relay is the last component in the start circuit before the starter solenoid. From battery to ignition switch to "crank" fuse to neutral safety switch to starter relay to starter solenoid to starter-and back to battery through ground. That is the start circuit. Just that the wiring tying them all together makes it complicated.

Did you have someone jump start the car when the battery was dead? If so, you may have damaged something in the starter circuit. There is a starter relay on most cars and some have fuses. I would start checking those two things first. Replace the starter relay with another one (usually you can substitute one of the other relays in the car electrical box for it). If the problem isn't there, there are only two other things in the circuit: the ignition key switch and the starter itself.

Joe, the power travel from the batterie to the relay switch, from there to the ignition key from the ignition key to the start switch from the start switch to the starter. If the batterie is in good shape(12.8V) the problem could be between those 3 points. Another one, a 12 year old starter could be also a problem. It's not easy to remove the starter, but if you can please check brushes and continuity, this is 600$ piece, try to do yourself(if you can) and you will save money.

try a new ignition switch as got the same problem with my 1997 bandit all good fuses and power to everything but thats it.

Lets start with the basics...
1. be sure your battery is in good shape and fully charged ( at least 12.6 volts)
2. starting procedure- ignition key to 'on', tranny in nuetral, right hand kill switch to 'run', pull clutch in fully and hit starter button.
3. does it do anything? clicks?... If you get nothing then the problem is likely in the clutch switch, kill switch, or the starter button. You will need a wiring diagram and volt meter to trace down where the power is lost. If you are getting 12 volts to the starter but its not engaging then you can suspect the starter/ solonoid.

PS... My clutch switch has been going bad for a few years now ( Im too lazy to replace such a trivial thing as a safety switch ;). Sometimes I need to hold the start button and work the clutch till the starter engages.

Take a test light or multimeter and check if
power is getting to the starter each
time you push your starter button.

If so, the solenoid or starter relay is okay.

If not, then find the relay, it is at
the end of the battery positive wire.
It may be under the side cover or
under the seat.

Use your test light again and
see if power is on both sides
of the relays larger terminals when
you push your button (key on of course).
You should hear the solenoid or relay
click. It connects the positive
battery terminal to the starter
to make it run.

If it doesn't click or pass the power through
then check if power gets to it's
smaller wire when you push the button.
If not, could be the button, or
possibly something like a
bad side stand switch or engine
stop switch.

check your fuses first should be one under seat and maybe by head light then battery connection make sure it si tight leave key on the whole time you do these tests then try to jump off the starter with rubber ended screw driver touch positive to a ground then check connections to key switch with test light if u are getting power to the key switch and nothing happens order a new key switch bike will not fire unless switch is making contact with battery good luck let me know how it goes

run a jumper from your battery positive to a long lead and remove the key switch. only one wire powers up the bike. use a probe to find it. when the bike powers up the dash, then you should be able to start with a remote starter switch