06 flhtcui spacer on left side rear wheel...which side goes inboard...smaller or larger

Locate the wheel in the rear swingarm and slide the wheel far enough forward to slip the belt over the sprocket and then slide the wheel backwards again. It is very important not to bend or fold the belt backward or into loops smaller than 5 inches (127 mm) in diameter because sharp bending can weaken the belt and cause it to fail. THEN seat the caliper on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm. THEN position the wheel in the swingarm, so that the brake disc is centered between the brake pads. THEN coat the axle with grease. THEN with the larger OD on the outboard side, hold the external spacer between the rear swingarm and the belt sprocket and slide the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the external spacer, and the belt sprocket into the wheel hub and when the axle emerges from the hub on the brake disc side of the wheel, push the axle through the short external spacer, the caliper bracket and the right side of the rear swingarm. THEN rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside. THEN with the thumb down and the cam forward, install the adjuster cam onto the end of the axle. THEN apply a thin film of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to the inboard side of the cone nut avoiding contact with the threads and install the cone nut on the axle finger tight. THEN get a torque wrench with a 1/2 inch drive head and an axle torque adapter such as (HD-47925) which simplifies the belt adjustment procedure by allowing the cone nut to be properly tightened without having to remove the right side muffler and can also be used to loosen the cone nut, as well as rotate the weld nut on the left side. The torque adapter MUST be only be installed on the torque wrench at 90 degrees perpendicular to the torque wrench because if it is not 90 degrees perpendicular to the torque wrench it will act as a torque multiplier and the cone nut will not be torqued to the torque specification set on the torque wrench but it will be over tightened. Which will cause bearing etc. damage. THEN insert the torque adapter tool up between rear wheel and muffler and onto the cone nut on the outboard side for best clearance from /with the muffler. Verify that THE adjuster cam just contacts THE weld nub on both sides of the rear swingarm. And if necessary, push the wheel forward slightly to get it where you need it to be. THEN snug the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm). THEN check deflection at the loosest spot in the belt using a belt tension gauge such as the (HD-35381A) gauge and apply 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) of force at the midpoint of the bottom belt strand. Belt deflection with the bike upright with the wheel in the air should be three sixteenths to one 1 quarter inch or 4.8 to 6.4 mm. Belt deflection with the bike on its kickstand without rider or luggage and 10 psi (69 kPa) in the Rear Shocks should be one quarter to five sixteenths inches or 6.4 to 7.9 mm

With the larger outside diameter on the outboard side hold the external spacer between the belt sprocket and the rear swingarm and then slide the axle through left side of the swingarm, the external spacer and the belt sprocket into wheel hub and then when the axle emerges from the hub on the brake disc side of the wheel, push the axle through the short external spacer, the brake caliper bracket and the right side of the rear swingarm.

To remove a 2012 TOURING rear wheel FIRST remove the saddlebags, then raise the wheel with a suitable lifting device and rotate the wheel and inspect the wheel bearings. THEN remove left side muffler, on models equipped with low profile shock absorbers (FLHX, FLTRX), remove the left side lower saddlebag support rail and if ABS equipped remove the cable strap to releasethe rear wheel speed sensor cable from the rear brake hose and at no time ever left any magnetic force field exist or be close to the speed sensor or it will be ruined, remove the rear brake caliper but do not disconnect the brake hose, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard or otherwise appropriately support it, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, hold the weld nut on the left side of the axle and loosen the cone nut on the right side of the axle using an AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIM's or H-D (HD- 47925), remove the cone nut and the adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the left side of the axlecounterclockwise until the wheel is loose, remove the axle from the left side of the motorcycle, catch all of the external spacer(s), caliper bracket, and rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) as the axle is removed, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear fork, move wheel forward enough so that you can and slip the drive belt off of the compensator sprocket, if needed remove the brake disc from hub and be careful that the drive sprocket does not fall off and get damaged as you remove the wheel from the bike, mark the wheel and the disc for re-installation in the same orientation.

To install a 2012 TOURING rear wheel you will need FASTENER TORQUE VALUEs. The brake disc (rear) screws are 30-45 ft-lbs 41-61 Nm; (Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws because re-using these can result in torque loss and always reinstall a brake disc in its original orientation); the rear axle cone nut (preliminary - 15-20 ft-lbs 20-27 Nm) (Final 95 to 105 ft lbs 128.8-142.4 Nm ) ; Brake caliper (rear)mounting fasteners 43-48 ft-lbs 58.3-65.1 Nm. If the brake disc was removed from the wheel ALWAYS reinstall it in the same orientation with the wheel as when it was removed and ALWAYS use NEW attaching screws and tighten them in a crosswise pattern to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), verify that the sprocket is square to and fully seated in the bowl area of the wheel, place the wheel into the rear fork with the drive sprocket installed, install the belt over the drive sprocket and then slide the wheel back to take up the slack, seat the brake caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear fork, apply a light coat of wheel bearing type grease (H-D suggest silver anti-seize compound but this technician finds almost all seized, corroded axles were lubricated thus so do as you feel best) to the axle to the bearing bores and to the bore of the spacer sleeve, slide the axle through the left side of rear fork, the thin external spacer, the sprocket and into the wheel hub out the other side of the wheel hub and through the rear wheel speed sensor if ABS equipped and if ABS equipped ensure that the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the rear wheel speed sensor are on the outboard side or through the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the brake caliper bracket, and the right side of the rear fork, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and with the adjuster cam section forward, install the adjuster cam on the right end of the axle, apply a light coat of SILVER GRADE ANTI-SEIZE (H-D Part No. 98960-97) to the inboard side of the cone nut but NOT the threads, install the cone nut on axle finger tight only, if ABS equipped route the speed sensor cable forward and outboard of the brake caliper bracket, continue forward following the top of the rear fork, rotate the speed sensor in a counterclockwise direction until the index pin makes contact with the brake caliper bracket, tighten the cone nut to a preliminary torque of 15-20 ft lbs (20-27 Nm), install the brake caliper and tighten its screws to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), secure the rear wheel speed sensor cable to the brake hose with the conduit clip located approximately 1.25 in. (31.8mm) in front of the brake hose crimp, adjust the drive belt using a belt tension gauge, final tighten the cone nut to 95 to 105 ft lbs 128.8-142.4 Nm, install a new E-clip with the flat side out in groove on the right side of the axle, on models equipped with low profile shock absorbers, install the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install the left side muffler and tighten its fasteners to 96-144 in-lbs 10.9-16.3 Nm,depress the rear brake pedal a number of times to set the brake pads properly against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and THEN road test the vehicle.

To remove a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST block motorcycle underneath the frame so that theweight of the motorcycle is off of the rear wheel, remove saddlebags if equipped, remove the belt guard and the debris deflector from the rear fork, inspect the wheel bearing end play and service the bearings if and as necessary, label the wheel spacers for left or right locationand orientation i.e. fork side or wheel side, remove the rear brake caliper from the caliper mount and support it using an elastic cord or such,For the FXCW/C modelsthe nut retainer will remain in the axle nut and does not need to be removed and if it is removed it must be replaced. For all but FXCW/C remove e-clip, remove the rear axle nut, and for FXCW/C remove the rear axle nut, loosen both axle adjuster screws an equal number of turns to remove tension from drive belt, with a suitable drift or other tool tap the axle towards the right side and remove it, remove the spacers and the caliper mounting bracket, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off of the sprocket, raise the motorcycle to allow enough clearance for removal of the rear wheel and pull the wheel with the belt sprocket from the rear fork.

To install a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease to the axle, to the bearing bores and to the bore of the inner sleeve, roll the wheel into place in the rear fork and slide the drive belt over the drive sprocket, position the left bearing spacer between the wheel and the fork, from the right side carefully insert the axle (with its washer for FXCW/C models) through the right rear fork, the short spacer, the rear caliper mounting bracket, the long spacer and into the bearing bore, continue sliding the axle through the wheel hub sleeve, the left side spacer and the left rear of the fork, install the washer, the axle nut, and the retainer, verify correct axle alignment and the check belt deflection, check the wheel bearing end play after tightening the axle nut to the specified torque because excessive end play can adversely affect stability and handling and insufficient end play can cause bearing seizure, tighten the axle nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.5 Nm), install the belt guard and the debris deflector, install the brake caliper and pads, install the saddlebags, if equipped, pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against pads, verify the position of the brake pads against the brake disc, rotate the wheel to check for any interference(s) or misalignment(s) and test the brakes for proper operation.

If you look at it the spacer will only LOGICALLY go one way. The small side matches the bearing inner race diameter so it will go to the bearing on the right side and another giveway is that the left side spacer is the same diamter as the right side narrow diameter so that would have to go to the bearing so both similar diameter spacer dimensions will go the same way ie to the bearing race.

The smaller end goes against the bearing race.

There are two sleeves that go into the wheel bearing seals for the lip ot the seal to ride on. They are both exactly the same. They go inside the seals. Then there is one wheel spacer that goes on the belt side of the wheel. http://www.bikebandit.com/1999-harley-davidson-flhtc/o/m1150#sch147360

Good Luck
Steve

The wheel not being equally spaced under the fender is typical of all Softail motorcycles. They have an "offset" wheel stance. I don't know exactly why but they are designed this way.

The three spacers you are talking about is actually one spacer and two seal races. The two seal races go into the wheel bearing seals on either side of the wheel. This provides a smooth finish for the wheel bearing seals to ride on. The other "spacer" is a bit larger and goes on the belt side of the wheel and the rear brake caliper bracket acts as the spacer on the other side. Anytime you take the wheels off your bike, always mark and make a drawing of the positions of the spacers.

Good Luck
Steve

The left side