Chaine question i! put 'er in gear and and shifts just fine. Though I didnt ride too much as no headalight and no helmet yet. I have a question about the drive chain tho. I had the rear wheel in the air, and put the bike in gear... and the bottom of the chain kicked and oscillated a little bit too much.. approx 2-3 cm. Now if I raise the throttle slowly the chain does not kick, but on releasing it it does so again. This is of course all with the rear wheel in the air. So am I just freaking out, or is thihs just because there is no load on the engine, or do I need a new chain??? Also, I hear the slight buzz of the cam chain when Im close to the engine. What is the noise level for a cam chain??

Riding Mower Dies When Put in Gear ' ThriftyFun

www.thriftyfun.com/Riding-Mower-Dies-When-Put-in-Gear.html

It starts fine, but when I put it in gear to go forward or reverse it dies. It also dies ... The engine on my riding mower will start and run while the clutch is pushed in.

Starts and Runs but Dies When put in gear - YSR 50 ' South Bay Riders

www.southbayriders.com > ... > Community > Maintenance and Repair

Aug 25, 2010 - 15 posts - ‎4 authors
The bike will start and run perfectly fine. However, the moment I put it into gear it dies. ----------------- How we got to this point:...

Engine dies in gear, runs in neutral - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders ...

www.hotrodders.com > Tech Help > Engine

Jan 4, 2010 - 12 posts - ‎10 authors
But if I drop it into any gear besides neutral or park, the engine will ... In this case, it shifts fine, and on time, however acceleration is ... start. the engine idling rough and wanting to stall when put in gear is the indicator to me.

Chain adjusted correctly? (i know it sounds silly, but it did effect a Bike i had).
Was it the correct weight oil? Thicker oil means harder to change.
Personally, i prefer to listen>test ride to determine an issue.
Good Luck with it, i'd love to know how you get on.
In the meantime...YouTube/CrashTestDummyTV.
Cheers n 'Happy Trails'...soon 4u i hope.
>:)

Does engage and drive normally? Because they only grind when you don't stop completely, gear grind. It is different to normal trans clutch plates engaging while you're riding on the brakes while shifting, they do make the 'clunk' - engaged - and then as you release the brake it grinds 'er er er er'.
So unless your trans doesn't drive normally, I'd say it's normal.

The cable for the chain shift mechanism (derailleur) has slipped or broken. The cable will need to be loosened down by the chain then put your shifter in the position closest to the gear it is actually in, then pull the cable snug and hold it while you tighten the cable. This will also verify that the cable is working. There are position limit adjusters so the shift mechanism should be in the correct position on one of the gears when there is no tension on the cable.

the shift wire that goes into the derail-er might need to be pulled a little more loosen the nut that holds it tight and then pull the cable some then tighten the bolt back up and do different variations on that till it rides and shifts smooth

Hello,

Have a helper lift the rear wheel of the bicycle slightly off the ground.

2
Kneel beside the bike and turn the pedals slowly by hand. Using the shift lever, adjust the front derailleur so that it rests at about the midpoint of its movement range.

3
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the largest rear gear, locate the two small side-by-side adjustment screws on the rear derailleur. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn with a small Phillips screwdriver. If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, skip to step 6.

4
Continue turning the pedals and shift through all the rear gears. If the chain will still not go onto the largest rear gear, shift the chain back down to the smallest rear gear. Turn the right (or lower) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle.

5
Shift through the gears again to test. If necessary, turn the left (or upper) screw counterclockwise another quarter turn.

6
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, begin by turning the right (or lower) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn. Shift through the gears to test.

7
If the chain still won't go onto the smallest rear gear, shift the chain to the largest rear gear. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle. Shift through all the gears to test.

8
Follow steps 1 through 7 for the front derailleur, which operates on exactly the same mechanism as the rear derailleur (you still lift the rear wheel in step 1). There are two side-by-side adjusting screws that control alignment.
If otherwise,
Tighten the high gear screw, the one that hits a cam when you shift to the smallest sprocket, until you can no longer shift into high gear. Put the shifter in high gear position and while turning the pedals, unscrew the high gear screw until the system engages high gear again. Shift between high gear and the second smallest several times, backing the screw out a little more, just until the derailleur shifts smoothly.

2. Tighten the low gear screw until you no longer get first gear. Repeat the process for this low gear limit - back the screw out just until the bike shifts smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket.

3. If you cannot engage high or low gear, or if the above technique does not work for high or low gear, the cable may be improperly adjusted.
Shift into high gear and push the shifter all the way to the end of its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt. That's the bolt with a hole through which the derailleur control wire is clamped. Pull the slack out of the wire, and retighten the anchor bolt.

If your bike has index shifting, you'll find an adjusting barrel either at the derailleur or the shifter. The adjusting barrel is a hollow screw at which the cable outer housing stops, but which the inner wire continues through. Fine adjust the cable tension by turning the adjusting barrel until the clicks on the shifter correspond with proper shifting at the derailleur.

If your bicycle does not engage high gear, or is slow to engage high gear, even though properly adjusted, the cable is probably the culprit. Replace the sticky or rusted cable, and the problem will usually go away.

If you have done everything right, but the bicycle does not shift reliably, the most common reason is that the chain and freewheel are too worn to work properly. If you replace one, you must replace both. A new chain on an old freewheel or visa versa usually skips, and the new part wears out very quickly.

Another possibility is a bent derailleur. The guide pulleys, those little wheels that take up the chain slack, must pivot on the same plane as the freewheel sprockets. Derailleurs become bent when the bike falls over on the right-hand side. Whenever you set a bicycle down, or put it in a car, set it on its left side to protect the derailleur. You can sometimes straighten out a bent derailleur by simply bending it back and readjusting the limit screws.


Hoping this will help to solve the problem, do take care....

The shift drum would not make any noise, ever. The drum will outlast all of us. All it does is move clockwise and counterclockwise as the rider pushes the shift lever up or down as needed. Go to an empty parking lot or roadway and start out slowly in 1st gear, slowly gaining speed. Does the knock show up? Now go into 2nd gear and slowly gain speed. Is the knock there? Do the same for all the gears. If the knock is only in one or two gears the problem is a broken gear tooth. When the broken gear is replaced, also replace any other gear the broken gear meshes with. Whatever broke the tooth also put the same pressure on the meshing tooth. If the meshing gears are not replaced you will have the pleasure, ( and expense ), of doing the repair all over again when the cracked tooth on a meshing gear decides to break off. This usually happens within the first hour of riding the "fixed" bike. If the test shows no knock in the gears, then chances are the knock is a cam chain needing to be tightened. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Adjustments

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

Use

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears.html

Wear a helmet, ride as you would drive a vehicle, obeying the laws.

Assuming the drive chain and sprockets are in good condition.(check these first)
This sounds like and internal gearbox problem, a bearing has collapsed or a tooth has broken of a gear.
Riding it like this will cause more damage. The gear box will likely need to be stripped

There may be some chain links that do not move freely. turn the pedal slowly backwards and check for siezed links, as it goes through the deraileur.

A worn chain can do this as well, unfortunately you usually have to change the chain and sprocket cluster as a pair. If you just put a new chain on a similar problem can occur.