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Anonymous Posted on Feb 26, 2012

2006 Kawasaki KLX 250 how to replace the starter clutch

Dismantle klx 250 starter clutch @

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Steve P

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  • kawasaki Master 3,912 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 05, 2021
Steve P
kawasaki Master
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Joined: Jul 15, 2012
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1. Do you have a flywheel puller for this unit? - NO? TAKE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL!!

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2336 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 10, 2008

SOURCE: FInd manufacture year by chassis number

The tenth character from the left is the manufacture year.

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Anonymous

  • 12 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 21, 2009

SOURCE: starting 2007 kawasaki klx 250

• The first thing to do with ANY engine that has sat for any longer than a couple of months is to dump ALL the fuel in the tank and carb(s). ALL OF IT !! You'll want to refill with some high priced fuel that has fuel system cleaners (Like Chevron with Techron) not becasue you need high-test fuel, but because you need the cleaners. It's ether that or disassemble the carbs and clean out jets you can't find much less see. Your choice. The carb kits alone will cost you about $50 so a tank of high-test is looking pretty good, huh?

• Now the fact that you tried to crank the engine with old fuel has fouled the sparkplugs. All of them. Go buy all new sparkplugs.

• If your bike has a vacuum fuel valve, then you'll also need to set the valve to "Prime".

Anonymous

  • 636 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 04, 2009

SOURCE: KLX 250 won't fire - new battery

-check the fuse right hand side below the fuel tank and seat, see if it is blown.
- Check to see if plug has spark, replace if necessary .
- Did you run the bike with a low battery before replacing it? could be that your stator is shot.
-Is bike trying to start but won't?

Anonymous

  • 377 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2009

SOURCE: 2009 kawasaki klx 250 - need correct procedure for

•Using the jack under the frame, and stabilize the motorcycle.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001–1238
•Loosen the left and right axle clamp bolts •Unscrew the axle nut . •Place a stand under the engine to raise the front wheel
off the ground. •Remove the axle, and pull out the wheel. Take off the
collars and caps from each side of the front hub.
CAUTION
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc
facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not
touch the ground.
•Insert a wood wedge between the disc brake pads this
prevents them from being moved out of their proper position,
should the brake lever be squeezed accidentally.
Front Wheel Installation •Apply grease to the seals. •Fit the projection on the cap to the groove on the collar. •Install the caps , collars on the left (longer collar)
and right (shorter collar ) side of the hub. •Insert the axle from right side. •Unbolt the right and left axle clamp bolts temporally. •Tighten the axle nuts •Tighten the left axle clamp bolts.
Torque - Front Axle: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
Left Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5
ft·lb)
NOTE
○Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure
even tightening torque.

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 12, 2010

SOURCE: 2007 250 KLX Kawasaki is a pain to start most of

Find a new dealer. Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} There is a proper way to start the engine. Generally four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.

  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick.

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KLX 250 won't fire - new battery

-check the fuse right hand side below the fuel tank and seat, see if it is blown.
- Check to see if plug has spark, replace if necessary .
- Did you run the bike with a low battery before replacing it? could be that your stator is shot.
-Is bike trying to start but won't?
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