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The damper is for adjustment to your weight and riding style. It's to Stiffen or Soften shocks. Most adjusters have a very slight click as you turn them. Start at mid adjustment and go from there. Make small adjustments as you test it. Good lick. Hope this helps.
Generally riding mowers lack the weight, power, and frame structure that is needed for heavy work like plowing dirt, moving stone, etc. You can maybe move small amounts of light stone by using a snow-plow set up with weights and chains but beware of over-loading the engine or trans. If you have a hydrostatic type transmission I do not recommend this at all as the one used in almost all riding mowers is simply not strong enough for any extra work at all, even mowing on decent slopes, or towing a small cart can severely shorten the lifespan of those transmissions and will result in an expensive paper-weight.
The automatic shifter mechanism on these bikes is driven by centrifugal force of weights near the rear axle. As they spin, they expand and move you to a higher gear. Although it's not a precise relationship, the mechanism is designed to shift to a gear that will give you a pretty constant pedal rpm - probably around 50 rpm. - regardless of the speed that the bike is moving. This is because as you ride longer distances your legs are most efficient at pedaling at a fairly constant speed (bikers call this cadence). Bikers who ride a lot find that these automatic shifters tend to keep you pedaling too slow (they find 70 rpm or even higher to be a better cadence.) However, if the cadence is too fast for you, you could alter the shift pattern by adding a bit more weight to the weights that are already there. You could do this with fishing weights and wire ties. This would give you a slower cadence. But as you ride the bike more you will probably find that you will want to remove the extra weights. I suggest that you keep riding without adding the weights and you will find that the preset cadence becomes more comfortable with time. It is also easier on your knees to have a faster cadence with lower pedal pressure.
Good luck,
Al K
Only use SAE 30 if using conventional oil. Briggs is real specific about that. I highly recommend using synthetic oil in ALL lawn equipment. You can use a multi-viscosity oil like SAE 10W-30 if you use synthetic, but straight 30 weight if using conventional. The brand is up to you.
Most Honda's use ATF which is the equivalent of 5 wt fork oil. The heavier the weight of the oil the stiffer the front end will be reacting to the road. 10 wt oil is very popular for most riders. 15 wt or 20wt is typically used in heavier bikes or with heavier riders who are looking for a stiff ride. Use the recommended weight so you don't change the handling characteristics you are used to. Try a bigger Yamaha dealer I can't believe Yamaha does not sell a specific and overpriced product for your machine . The other dealer did not want to buy a whole case just to have some on hand.
I couldn't find a 39" Olevia TV, but I did find 37" ones and they weight a little over 50 pounds. You can find the weight for your specific model at www.olevia.com. Select the series and then click "View Full Specifications" on your model. Then click the Specifications tab and go down to Other. Gross weight should be the weight when packaged, and Net weight should be the weight of the TV by itself.
thats a great question and i am wondering the same thing i weight in at about 240 and it seems to ride fine beside the noises it make but im thinkin the noise is because it is brand new... i have heard nothing about weight limits and read the entire manual and read nothing about weight limits so im assuming there is no limit .....
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