Homelite c-51 wont start

SOURCE: my poulin chain saw wont run

Can you get it to run at all? if not pull it a few times and check if the plug is wet. Let me know

SOURCE: Homelite xl-175 chain saw no prime

As long as the line fits tight so its not sucking air you should be ok.. try changing out the plug if its old. Clean out the air filter too.. But the line should be ok as long as its tight..

SOURCE: Homelite XL 103 chain saw 1967 will not start-

Is this your saw?
Chain Saw Collectors Corner
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/cc8b1cfa0c6e498d88256c28006444b1?OpenDocument

If this grand old lady were mine I would part with a few $(40±) for a tune up and and maybe an additional $20 if carburetor needs rebuild at my friendly neighborhood Stihl dealer. They perform pressure tests most homeowners cannot. An undetected air leak can destroy your saw. She deserves better.
HTH
Lou

SOURCE: CHAIN SAW WONT STAY RUNNING

PLEASE stop shouting and provide a model number for your saw. I will provide an IPL with some fuel system detail and a schematic to use for hose replacement. Reply below. Lou

SOURCE: This saw will start maybe

Hi Jack, I will try to help you out. As far as the high/low screws go turn them in (clockwise) until lightly seated so no damage is done to the needles or the seats. Now turn them both out 1 turn but also remember the position so you can go back to it if you have to. That is the suggested basic adjustment. The saw should run at this setting and sometimes is bang on. If everything is OK with the carb only minor adjustments should do it. When adjusting go 1/8 turn at a time. Because of idle problems start with the low speed mixture needle. Turn out (counterclockwise) 1/8 turn and try running your saw. Do that 5 or 6 times, if no good results go back to starting position. You might try the high speed mixture needle the same way to see what happens. ( Always remember the starting position of the adjusting screw) The one thing to be careful of when adjusting the carb is not to adjust the high speed needle less than 1 turn out (counterclockwise) from a lightly seated position. The reason is you don't want to run it too lean (less gas more air) which could damage the engine because it could overheat. The gas and air mixture also helps with cooling. Try any adjustments as long as you don't go too lean.
Inside these types of carburetors there is a mesh type filter which is very, very fine, so if anything even dust gets in, this mesh will stop it, so it is something to check out, it is a common problem. You say you took the cap off the bottom, that is usually the metering side. It is critical that the diaphragms (membrane as you call it) be installed very accurately.
From what you describe you did a very good job of checking everything out, so what could be needed is a carburetor overhaul, unless it is something that is intermittent, which is a pain. I hope I have helped you out even a little. All the best and good luck.