Question about 1983 Honda vt 500 ft ascot
The battery is new and the stator was checked with an OHM meter @
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Your described condition indicates a most likely fault with the voltage regulator. This would be located below the battery. In most instances, it would be the regulator itself. However, there are also occasions where the pins/terminals of the connectors are corroded or have burned due to overheating.
Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
Check the rectifier, its responsible for charging the battery when running, the fuse too, however the rectifier if it can not be repaired, better to buy a new one......................sodeep
Posted on May 26, 2009
First, set the meter to read AC voltage at a range of 100 or better. Next, make sure the stator wires are clear of anything that will grab them and make sure they are not grounded to anything...now start the engine and check the voltmeter between the stator leads...don't know if you have 2 or 3 coming out of stator...but between any two leads you should have somewhere between 15 and 30 volts AC...this voltage then goes into the regulator/rectifier to be changed to 12V DC. You can test the stator without the engine running by putting the meter on the Ohms function...and check between the leads...there should be very low ohms readings between the wires..if you get nothing then a winding is open and will need to replace the stator(or have rewound). Also check all the stator leads to ground..there should not be any continuity to ground.
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
Testimonial: "This is great advice...Thanks!! Well written!!"
SOURCE: 06 hdflhr changed battery
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Make sure the ignition switch is off. Now, touch the battery cable to the battery post and see if you see a spark. You may see a very small spark but it it's any size at all, you've got something drawing current while the ignition switch is off. If your bike is fuel injected, your ECM is probably going to draw a bit of current but not enough to kill the battery. If you suspect too much of a drain, connect a amp meter in series with the cable and the battery to determine how much draw you actually have. To locate which circuit it's on, unplug the fuses one at the time until the draw goes away.
To check the charging system, you must charge your battery fully. You'll need a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter). Put the meter's function selector switch to DC VOLTS, 50 volt range. Connect the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After about a minute or so, you should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts. If not, check the output of the alternator.
To check the alternator, follow the two wires from the regulator to the plug on the front of the engine. Unplug the plug and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal connectors down inside the plug. This is where you're going to check the output of the alternator. Put your meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 volts or greater range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch either lead to one of the connectors down in the plug and the other lead into the other connector. Since you're measuring AC voltage, it makes no difference which lead goes where as long as they don't touch each other or the engine case. Your meter should read 30 volts or more.
If you don't have the 30 volts out of the alternator, your stator is bad. If you do have 30 or more volts, but not the 14.5 - 15.0 volts at the battery, most likely your regulator is bad. Make sure the regulator is grounded well to the frame. I usually put a star type lockwasher between the frame and the regulator on each of the mounting bolts to insure a good ground.
Posted on May 16, 2011
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