What is the size of magnetic wire used in rewinding primary coil?

17-gauge

http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html

I don't think they post schematic for the transformer
But generally, the primary coil receives 120Volt AC input from household electrical outlet
And the secondary coil produces 12Volt AC output for the low voltage lights.
The 'coil' is a coil of insulated wire wrapped around a metal core. Two coils set side by side create a transformer... when primary is energized, the secondary responds to the magnetic field caused by primary core... resulting in a current that flows on the secondary coil.
Output voltage on secondary coil is determined by the number of wraps and diameter of wire.

Some transformers offer a choice of secondary output... Kichler for example... you can select 12-13-14-15 Volt AC output
This is achieved by the way the secondary coil is wrapped.... for less voltage a wire is tapped at one point on the coil... for more voltage, a wire is tapped at another point on coil. This gives the user several wire choices to connect the lights.

Gene

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you can use a neon bulb voltage tester to check for spark
a magneto gets its spark from the collapse of the magnetic field that occurs when the points close
the magneto is comprised of two coils.
a primary and a secondary.
when the points are open the primary and secondary are one continuous circuit and generates a considerable magnetic field when the magnet passes the magneto.
when the points close the primary coil is shorted to ground.
this causes a very rapid collapse of the magnetic field in the magneto.
this field collapse can generate a very high voltage surge (the power for the spark)
this surge can exceed 12,000 volts or more and yes it is a bit painful

its solid and about.5mm but needs to be insulated with shellac or similar resinous material when being re wound

If its a transformer based Amplifier you can rewind the primary winding for 230Volt. But it has to be done by a transformer specialist.
All one has to do is unwind the primary on a winding machine and make a note of the number of turnings in the coil. Then wind back twice the number of turns using half the thickness of the wire that was used for 110v.
Eg: if the there were 1000 turns of 20 swg wire in the 110 circuit when you rewind you have to use 40swg wire and wind 2000 turns on the bobin.

Could be a cover over the spark plugs or plugs have coil on plug system: Ignition System WARNING
To avoid personal injury and/or vehicle damage, refer to the service precautions at the beginning of this section.
General Information NOTE: For information on understanding electricity and troubleshooting electrical circuits, please refer to chassis electrical.
Coil on Plug (COP) System
The coil over plug system was developed so that spark and spark timing could be better controlled on an individual cylinder basis. Each cylinder has an ignition coil mounted directly above the spark plug on the cylinder head cover. A short suppresser/connector replaces the spark plug wire and links the coil to the plug. There are different methods used for primary triggering. Some manufacturers use a combination coil/module, which means each coil has its own control circuit that is activated by the PCM. Others use remote mounted modules to trigger the coils.
Each individual coil is allowed to saturate while all other cylinders fire. For a V-8 engine, this allows a period of seven firing events for coil saturation, compared to three events for the same V-8 engine with a waste spark system. The coil over plug system also benefits from a minimum amount of energy lost, due to the resistance of spark plug wires.
Distributor System
If a distributor is not keyed for installation with only one orientation, it could have been removed and installed improperly and then rewired. The new wiring arrangement would maintain the correct firing order, but could change the relative placement of the plug towers in relation to the engine. For this reason it is imperative that you label all wires before disconnecting any of them. Also, before removal, compare the current wiring with the accompanying illustrations. If the current wiring does not match, make notes of the current plug wire locations and orientation of the distributor cap.
Magnetic Sensor / Pick-Up Coil
The magnetic sensor in electronic ignition system is made up of a small coil of wire wrapped around an iron core, a permanent magnet and a toothed wheel called a reluctor. These sensors can be found mounted in a distributor, or at the front, middle, or rear of the crankshaft or camshaft, and are two-wire sensors.
The permanent magnet produces a magnetic field that passes thru the center of the pick-up coil. As the reluctor turns, the small teeth enter the magnetic field. Because the metal is a better conductor for the field than the air between the magnet and reluctor, the field strength begins to increase and reaches its maximum when the reluctor teeth are closest to the sensor. An increase in magnetic field induces a positive voltage to the module. As the teeth leave the magnetic field, the decrease in pole strength induces a negative voltage into the module. This alternating positive and negative voltage causes a small AC current. This alternating current after passing through an analog/digital converter is used by the module or engine controller to trigger the primary circuit.
Hall-Effect Device
Another device that can be used to create a triggering signal is a hall-effect device. A hall-effect device can be thought of as a solid-state On/Off switch. The hall-effect switch is a three-wire device that must receive a power and ground. The hall-effect switch is used in conjunction with an interrupter ring with a series of slots or openings cut into it. Depending on the application, these slots are spaced around the ring in a specific configuration. As the ring rotates, the slots pass between the hall-effect switch, and alternately turns the voltage off and on. When a slot aligns with the hall-effect switch, the controller sees voltage on the signal line. When the area between slots passes the hall-effect switch, the signal is pulled low. This results in a voltage of 0V–0.1V at the controller.
The rotation of the interrupter ring causes the signal to toggle, which causes a continual series of digital pulses on the signal line. This digital pulse is the timing signal that is used by the ignition module or engine computer to open and close the primary circuit. The controller processes these pulses as the RPM signal.
Photo-Optical
Another device used to create a triggering signal is the photo optical sensor. Inside the distributor, there are pick-ups called the Reference pick-up and the Sync pick-up. Each pick-up has a Light Emitting Diode (LED) and a phototransistor. A slotted disc rotates between the pick-ups. The pair of LED’s and phototransistors generates crankshaft position and RPM signals (high and low-resolution signals). The LED’s are powered by a 9- or 12-volt source (depending on manufacturer). Each phototransistor is used to turn a 5-volt signal from the engine controller on and off.
If we look at the optical distributor used in the Chrysler 3.0L engine as an example, there are two areas of slots cut into the disc. The outer diameter of the disc, which generates the high-resolution signal, contains 350 slots. Each of these slots represents 1 degree of crankshaft rotation. An area of approximately 3/8" with no slots represents the remaining 10 degrees. The inner portion of the disc is the low-resolution signal and contains six 60-degree slots. Each of these slots represents the piston’s top dead center position for each cylinder. The controller uses the high-resolution signal to regulate spark timing up to 1200 RPM. This ensures timing accuracy, since crankshaft speed fluctuations are most likely to occur because of the firing pulses during cranking and idle. The low-resolution signal is used for injector firing, as well as ignition timing above 1200 RPM.
As the slots pass between the LED’s and the phototransistors, the transistors are toggled on and off. This occurs as the light beams from the LED’s are alternately interrupted. When the light beam from the LED strikes the phototransistor, the transistor turns on. This causes the 5-volt signal to be pulled low (0V–0.1V). When the rotating disc blocks the light beam, the transistor turns off. This causes the 5-volt signal to remain high.
Ignition Coil
The heart of the automotive ignition system is the ignition coil. The ignition coil is a step-up transformer, since it boosts battery voltage to the high voltage that is necessary for proper combustion.
The ignition coil consists of a primary winding and secondary winding wrapped around a soft iron core. The primary winding is made up of several hundred turns of heavy wire, while the secondary winding consists of thousands of turns of fine wire. The iron core is used to conduct magnetic lines of force efficiently.
When current flows through the primary winding, a magnetic field is created. The more time current is permitted to flow, the stronger the magnetic field becomes. When the current is turned off, the magnetic field collapses causing a high voltage to be induced in the secondary winding through the process of induction.
A few hundred volts will be generated in the primary winding because of the collapsing magnetic field across the heavy primary wire. However, as the magnetic lines of force cut across the thousands of turns of fine wire in the secondary, a far greater voltage is produced. The production of primary voltage is called self-induction, since the primary winding essentially magnifies its own initial voltage when the magnetic field collapses.
Related Symptoms
Faulty ignition system components along with loose connections, bad grounds, high resistance or opens in the circuit, may cause the following symptoms:

• No start condition
• Stalling after cold start
• Stalling after hot start
• Surging off idle
• Extended crank time when engine is cold
• Unstable idle
• Running rough during off idle acceleration
• Bucking
• Hesitation
• Stumble
• Poor fuel economy
• Spark knock

If your bike has points in it, your are correct. There is usually a black wire that goes from the points directly to the coil. When the points open, this breaks the circuit and the current through the coil stops. This, in conjunction with the action of the condensor, collapses the magnetic field in the coil's primary circuit wiring. The collapsing magnetic causes and induced high voltage low amperage current in the coils secondary circuit. This the high voltage that produces the spark at the spark plug.

The armature (rotating field) is powered by the voltage regulator for 'excitation' which is the term describing a magnetic, revolving field. This magnetic field 'induces' voltage into the stator windings (stationary outer winding), producing voltage for use at the recepticles. Some older generators used a 'permanent magnet field, instead of using a powered winding from a regulator and the voltage and frequency were set by the RPM.
Frequency is still a function of RPM, but the voltage is controlled by the voltage regulator.


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If you have continuity from the coil to the ignitor, the problem lies within the ignitor. The coils function by having a constant battery voltage on the red/black wire (you'll notice that ALL the coils have a red/black wire) - the primary windings in the coil charge up, until the ignitor "grounds" the colored wire (grey and white in the front, orange and yellow in the rear). As the voltage in the primary winding drops, it creates a strong magnetic field - the magnet (laminated iron) in the center of the coil charges the secondary windings, and the very high voltages generated fire the plug. You've already determined that the voltage on the orange wire is higher than the voltage on the yellow wire; that could only be because the orange wire is not being "grounded" on a recurring basis by the ignitor. (You have to remember that the meter you're testing the leads with cannot react to changes in voltage nearly as quickly as they happen; to really "see" what's happening at the coil, you'd need to use an oscilloscope).

I am assuming your bike is stock, or close to it. In 1974, all h-d's used a battery coil ignition with wasted spark. Battery positive flows from the ignition switch to the coil, through the coil primary winding to the points, then open or shorted to negative (through the chassis) depending on the points being open or closed. When the engine is turning over, this is what happens: The small cam that operates the points has the points in the closed position, so battery current is flowing through the coil primary, through the closed points to negative. This causes the primary winding inside the coil to set up a magnetic field. When the cam starts to open the points, the current tries to bridge the gap. If we let this happen, the big arc between the point surfaces would burn up in a hurry, and the plugs would not fire for the following reason: The ignition coil is a transformer. It has a primary and secondary winding.The secondary winding has many more turns of wire than the primary. When the secondary winding "cuts" magnetic lines of force a larger voltage is induced in the secondary. In the case on your sporty, we are boosting 12 volts to over 10,000 volts. This depends on 2 things: The number of lines of force and the speed they are cut. So, when the points just start to open, the condenser absorbes the current until the points are open enough to prevent arcing. Then the current flow through the primary winding stops. The magnetic field quickly collapses, cutting through the secondary windings that are connected to the spark plugs. The resulting high voltage (pressure) Jumps the gap on both plugs and lights the fire. One of the cylinders is on the exhaust stroke so that spark is wasted. So: ignition on : 12v at coil positive. With points closed, 0 volts at coil negative. If you read voltage here, the points are dirty or open or the wire from the coil to the points is open. Points open: 12 volts at coil negative. To check for spark, you don't have to crank the engine. Just manually opening the points should fire the plugs. After you get the plugs firing, post again and I will tell you how to razor tune this thing. It should start instantly with a perfect idle. Hope this is clear.