Tube around driveshaft loose. - 2004 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

Everything is fine. Without a driveshaft installed, the ouyput shaft of the trans will be loose and floppy. This is because the tight splines that connect the output shaft of the trans to the driveshaft, are made for the driveshaft to be installed.

The driveshaft slips tightly into a bearing inside the tranmission, and the driveshaft controls movement.

So, without a driveshaft installed, the output shaft of the trans will flop around. Once the driveshaft is installed, all should be tight and well.

So what do you do? Just install the driveshaft, leave it up on jacks, add your fluids and fire it off.

Run the trans through ALL gears while holding brakes tight, then recheck fluids. Once this is well, run it up on jacks and check for all gears and no leaks.

On jacks it will wobble or vibrate, but just finish the job and teat drive it.

Chances are that bothing is wrong.

Good Luck!!@

you will have to remove the tail shaft housing and replace the bushing, and yes you can replace the drive shaft with a used one just make sure its not bent, no they are not balanced vehicle to vehicle.. they are put on a balancer just like a tire, only the machine is a little different obviously

1) Flat level surface, chock the front tires.

2) Jack the rear up just until the tires clear.
USE jack stands. (DO NOT EVER just depend on a jack)

3) Remove the rear bolts holding the rear U-joint in.
Carefully use a tool to pry one of the U-joint cups, until the U-joint comes loose. DO NOT drop the cups off. Keep one hand wrapped around the cups as you pry the U-joint loose.

When U-joint is removed, suggest use black plastic electrical tape, and tape across the two cups, so they do not drop off.

[GOOD time to see if they are dry, and the U-joint is in good condition. DO NOT loose needle bearings ]

4) Remove the bolts that hold the Carrier Bearing Support to frame.
(Put the nuts back on a few threads of the bolts, after putting them back through the holes, in the Carrier Bearing Support strap. This way you won\'t lose them)

Lay the Support strap, and rubber aside.

5) Slide the driveshaft out of the back of the tranny. (Transmission)
It would be a real good idea to go to an auto parts store first, and rent a plug tool for the back of the tranny, once you remove the driveshaft. Keeps the tranny fluid from leaking out. Manual or automatic. (It is plastic, and a cheap rental)

The rear half-driveshaft slips out of the front one.
BEFORE removing make a mark on the front half-driveshaft, and a matching mark on the rear half-driveshaft. The driveshaft is a Balanced unit. Should be put back together the same way, it was taken apart.

Take the driveshaft with the carrier bearing on it to a shop, so they can press the old one off, and the new one on.

Reverse your steps.

(Owner of 1994 GMC Sonoma 2-wheel drive, extended cab. Civilian mechanic on Army base. Work on ALL wheeled vehicles, and track up to, but not including, Abrams M1A2 tank )

Regards,
joecoolvette

Which bearing? The hub bearing? I can send it. I have your Ford shop manual & wiring books for $25, plus $4 shipping. Let me know.

SECTION 205-01: Driveshaft 2002 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY Driveshaft Center Bearing
Special Tool(s) 2-Jaw Puller
205-D026 (D80L-1002-L) or Equivalent Puller, Bearing
205-D064 (D84L-1123-A) or Equivalent Driveshaft Alignment Bushing Remover Tube
205-D073 or Equivalent
Disassembly

1. Remove the driveshaft (4602). For additional information, refer to Driveshaft in this section.

1. Separate the front and rear shaft assemblies.

1. CAUTION: Do not clamp on the driveshaft tube as a fracture can result.
   Position and clamp the driveshaft at the weld yoke.

1. Using the special tools, remove the retaining ring and the center bearing and bracket assembly (4A499).

Assembly

1. Position the center bearing and bracket assembly and the retaining ring on the yoke.

1. Using the special tool, drive the retaining ring and bearing assembly until fully seated on the yoke.

1. CAUTION: Align the index marks or driveshaft imbalance can occur.
   Assemble the front and rear shaft assemblies.

1. Install the driveshaft. For additional information, refer to Driveshaft in this section.

Hi they do have a two sump fuel tank as they have the rear driveshaft running through the middle of the fuel tank so they use a transfere pump to pump fuel from one sump to the main one with the pick up tube so he is right in a way, however the only problem that would cause this is the transfer pump and it would do it all the time if that were the case id would think the prob maybe the main fuel pump itself maybe having a loose wire

REMOVE BOTH REAR TIRES TAKE BOLTS LOOSE AT BACK OF BACKING PLATES AFTER REMOVING DRUMS AND THE AXLES WILL POP LOOSE .PULL THEM OUT ENOUGH TO CLEAR REAR DIFF INSIDE AND POP OF DRIVESHAFT AND REMOVE ALL BOLTS AROUND THE CASE WHICH HOLDS IN CARRIER ASSEMBLY AND SWAP

universal joints, you had better watch out if you dont get that replaced soon it will come loose while you are driving causing serious damage

make sure you use sunray washers on all the bolts on the diff flange,as far as torque settings are concerned,two 8"spanners,one on each end with max hand pressure is enough.the vibration is a different kettle of fish,have you checked the long tube that comes out of the gearbox for the support bush,commonly missed.
had a 1600E for years,upgraded it to 1650 with a cosworth 16v head and twin webber 45s.went like s.. of a shovel.....then wrote it off.

It sounds like a bad U-joint to me. The only way to properly check u-joints is by removing the driveshaft. The joint should move freely, any binding will cause the vibration.

Remove it. Then drive the truck to see if it vibrates. If it don't forget it. If it does, replace the driveshaft. But get it off there before it breaks something.