Suzuki Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

The clutch lever is pulled in, moving the cable attached to the clutch release arm down on the clutch cover, it in turn rotates a clutch release cam shaft in the cover that is just outboard of the clutch.. On that vertical shaft cam shaft is a cut out engagement part of clutch.----------

Remove the screws holding in the clutch springs. You should be able to find them pretty easily once the cover is removed, they'll likely be in a star pattern.--------

Once all the new disks are in, replace the side cover and screw in the new clutch springs one at a time, tightening the screws just until they seat.Tighten the spring screws with your hex wrench one at a time, in a criss-cross pattern to ensure even tightening and prevent warping of the components. Tighten each one a little at a time until they are as tight as they were when you removed them.

--------

As you mentioned you replaced the clutch cable The nut and bolt through the pivot gets extremely tight and causes the lever to bind. Loosen nut and bolt slightly and that should help.

Fully remove the nut and bolt add some silicone grease to the pivot points and re-install the nut and bolt. Then check.-------- Recheck the clutch cable installation, some disks or parts are not aligned properly or clutch lever bolt nut are getting too tight.-------- Getting this checked will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Hi, Jonathan the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://suzuki.com.pe/motos/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/GN125FSERVICEMANUAL.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/
https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/bike-datenbank/suzuki-tu-125-xt/az12/0969
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_Tux

I was able to get the fingertip pad out of the liftgate by removing the two screws which hold it to the body of the liftgate. Once you detach the clip for the wiring harness, the rubber pad comes right out. Remove all 5 or 6 of the little screws to expose the inner workings. I then just used to solder to join the corroded parts which fell off long ago and it works fine. Here's a lousy picture! 2008 SUZUKI XL7 LIFTGATE

Hi, Thass64 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/816746/Suzuki-Vs700-1985.html#product-Intruder%20VS
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

Hi, Monica and the usual suspects are:
1. Wheels and or tires worn or damaged.
2. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly.
3. Primary chain is badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose.
6. Ignition timing incorrect due to a poorly tuned engine.
7. Internal engine problem flywheels have shifted.
8. Broken frame.
9. Stabilizer links worn or loose.
10. Rubber mounts loose or worn.
11. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose.
12. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
C90 front end wobble at 40 mph
Honda warranty complaint Be sure to take tube of KY
Suzuki VL1500 Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki Intruder VL1500B Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Hi, Jesse before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/227012-c50t-will-not-hold-charge.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevgFfi_oaY
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1042330/Suzuki-Vl800.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611701/Suzuki-Vl800.html

the fuel line leaving tank to the box is your fuel pump,it may not be working,take the line from the tank to pump and check to see if you have fuel flow through that line,if you do reconnect it and disconnect line leaving box to carb, push start button to see if you have fuel from pump,if not,check to see if there is a vacuum line connected to pump,it may be vacuum operated,you can also just run the fuel line from tank straight to carb to see if it will start,then you will know if its your fuel pump.

Maybe you can use these codes taken from:

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forums/showthread.php?120554-Motorcycle-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-Thread

This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHTThis is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT
This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT

Sounds like your timing is too far retarded. Check it out or ask your local dealer to check it for you.

There is one supply hose (larger) and a bunch of vent tubes. The vent tubes really don't matter how they are connected as long as they vent. The vents that point vertical - just loop the tube up and then down towards the ground.

Hi, Bobby parts swapping is common with most motorcycles when it comes to interchangeable or compatible parts from one model with another "EXCEPT" for the CDI's they are year-make-model "SPECIFIC" the best thing to do is call your local Dealership Parts Department or a reputable independent shop. If your location is not near a shop then go online and find a parts catalogue or "FICHE" and match part numbers depending on your criteria.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Front+fork+swap+Suzuki+VL+1500+Intruder+LC&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjU_8jXtsblAhWjq1kKHTLODr8QsAR6BAgIEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://ariesmotorcycles.com/fork-swap-chart/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1000591/Suzuki-Vl1500.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Hi, Raed for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Fusebox+location+2005+Suzuki+Boulevard+M95&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi8kIC098TlAhXDrFkKHeGCCOQQsAR6BAgHEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5oXgpdwGkY
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/824096/Suzuki-Vz800.html#product-Boulevard%20M50 Free
https://diyrepairmanuals.com/product/service-manual-for-2005-suzuki-boulevard-m95-vz1600-motorcycle-2/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIksSWhfjE5QIVoINaBR3ZvABtEAYYAyABEgIIavD_BwE $270
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=39
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHlYHyv7240
Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
Suzuki VS1400 Owner Manual

if the battery is more than a few yrs old its probably no good. check charged voltage . it should be at least 12.4 volts at rest. after its charged up. if not time for a new one.

Hi, Nkosi before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://cruiser.mototribe.com/discuss/wont-start-m109r
https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/what-to-do-if-your-motorcycle-doesnt-start/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1215252/Suzuki-Intruder-Vzr1800.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Hi, Frankiecapps for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Vacuum+line+routing+2001+Suzuki+GSF+600+S+Bandit&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiMwYLf3JzlAhUq1VkKHbKhDQUQsAR6BAgJEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.banditforum.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=74238.0
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1235913/Suzuki-Gsf600y-2000.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://lcwestern.weebly.com/suzuki-gsf-600-owners-manual.html

Hi, Anonymous try replacing the wire, for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Wiring+diagram+2000+Suzuki+VS+1400+Intruder&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwimocytspXlAhVGd6wKHRJACaAQsAR6BAgJEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
http://classiccycles.org/text/597964.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1215255/Suzuki-Intruder-Vs1400.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/946390/Suzuki-Vs1400.html

Hi, Kelly fuel lines should only be replaced if they look like they will probably fail before the next scheduled maintenance service, for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Peugeot, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/792723/Suzuki-Dl650.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1090593/Suzuki-Dl650.html
https://bikez.com/motorcycles/suzuki_v-strom_650_2008.php
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_V-Strom_650

Hi, Justin for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?sa=X&q=Wiring+diagram+2004+Suzuki+GSX750F+(Katana)&tbm=isch&source=univ&ved=2ahUKEwimxNuNmJDlAhVQrlkKHapEC7sQsAR6BAgJEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.classiccycles.org/1852/597964.html
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/281509186-suzuki-gsx-r-750-r750-1993-2010
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Sounds like ignition problems; I know you've had it serviced but check condition of spark plugs. Check all electrical contacts for corrosion, more specifically the timing pickup circuit, wires to coils, CDI connector. You're CDI may be the culprit, try swapping it out for a known good one. If it's back firing then enough fuel is getting through the carbs, so would indicate to me that the problem doesn't lie there. Hope you have some luck.