Suzuki RM-Z 250 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 9


about 22.1 oz. give or take a .1 oz. or two

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Jun 30, 2009


It's in the top of the cylinder head. Remove the seat then the gas tank, you should see the spark plug cap sticking up out of the cylinder head then. Pull it off by the cap not the wire. Use a spark plug socket to remove it and replace with the factory plug. Check the gap on the new plug with a wire gauge. Carefully put the plug back down in the hole with the plug in the socket. Screw in with your fingers til it's hand tight. Tighten 3/4 turn with the ratchet.

2004 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Jun 24, 2009


I don't know what may be wrong with the top end, (if anything), but I wish I could come up with a line of BS like these guys have. I could maybe get rich by constantly servicing just one bike. What happens when the bike "breaks down"? What does the shop say is wrong with the top end such that it needs to be rebuilt? What do they do to fix the breakdown each time? What do they charge you?
Get back to me by posting a comment.

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Jun 21, 2009


serious problem. blown head gasket.

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Jun 18, 2009


sounds like exhust valves rusted open or hung up.. pull head on cyclinder... drain crankcase oil put in fresh oil.. reassembile head with new gasket.

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Jun 17, 2009


The splines on the shifting rod could be worn or the shift lever itself could be loose causing the bike not to fully shift into gear.

If the problem is not that simple then you will have to go inside the gearbox and see if the shifter forks are worn.

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Jun 07, 2009


i just had the same problem on my 04 its the valves they need to be adjusted

2004 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on May 29, 2009


Kick starting is sensitive to fresh fuel. Tank should be completely drained

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on May 23, 2009


Hi, you may need to have the valve clearance checked .

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on May 19, 2009


Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slides back in the throat of the carbs, Move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. It may be that you will wind up going two notches. Try one notch first. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

2004 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on May 09, 2009


drain the oil(all of it) and put on a new filter.sounds to me like you are missing a gasket to the crank case.

2004 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Apr 27, 2009


U NEED TO SET THE CLUTCH WIRE BOLT LOSE OR TIGHT IT BOLT IT WILL BE OK

2004 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Apr 22, 2009


HMMM ! not real familiar with this model,but first of all you'll need to get yourself a key cut by taking the serial number from the ignition barrell and your model /year number to a locksmith.Then charge the battery to full.then you'll need to find out if the charging system is working.Quickest way to do this is take a static and a live reading of battery volts accross the battery with a multi-meter the live reading should be a tad more than the static reading. Also it`s possible that you may have disloged some dirt/grit from the intake when you spayed carb cleaner and it has blocked one of the low speed air jets or pilot jet.......Good luck ..KEN from NAIDIA....HHHHHEEEEEE!!!!!! ......Flabbycat

2004 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Apr 19, 2009


The rebuilder may have move the jet needle position clip. Take the top off the carb and pull out the slide. Remove the needle and then move the clip to position 5 from the top. Try it noe. What you did was to provide a richer mid-range fuel mix. Hope this helps.

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Apr 08, 2009


timing and fuel/air mix

Suzuki RM-Z 250... | Answered on Apr 01, 2009


To adjust your valves you will need a few standard tools and most importantly a set of feeler gauges. You can buy these at any automotive store. The first step is removing the tank and valve cover to gain access to the valve train. You will see both the intake and exhaust cams plus the tops of the valves. This is where you will be measuring with the feeler gauge. The next thing would be to rotate the motor to top dead center. You will need to remove both inspection covers that are on the side of your ignition cover. This will give you access to the timing marks and to the bolt that allows you to turn the motor over.

Check in your manual as to what direction to turn the motor over. You do not want to turn the motor over in the wrong direction. Turn the motor over looking into the inspection (top) hole. You will notice a mark on the fly wheel. When you see this mark come around, look up at the cams. There should be two punch marks on the cam gears that line up with the gasket surface towards the outside of the head. At this point you should be at top dead center compression. Check the lobes of the cam, they should not be touching the valve buckets. If they are touching the valve buckets, this means that you are 180 degrees out of time. Rotate the motor 180 degrees and then start to measure.

After you measure the clearance between the cam lobe and the valve bucket, you will want to write that down. You will then need to check your numbers against the spec's provided in your service manual. If you are outside the specified range, you will need to remove your cams and replace the shims. There should be a chart in your manual that will help you to decide what shims you will need to bring you within the safe range. When dealing with the KXF250 or the RMZ 250, you want to make sure you use the correct shims. There are two types that will fit these bikes, but only one is the correct shim. Shims come both forged and sintered. They look the same until you put them under a magnifying glass, then the difference is very clear. The forged shims have a smooth surface, while the sintered shims have very small cavities. Using the sintered shims will prematurely wear the coating off of the valve stem. This will shorten valve life and cause the valves to go out of adjustment sooner.

Now, after replacing the shims, all that is left is to reassemble your machine. Pay closer attention to the instructions in your owners manual. Always double check your cam timing with what is recommended in the manual. Do not start your bike without turning the motor over by hand first. If you feel it is unusually hard to turn over or it will not turn over, you probably are off on your cam timing. Once again, do not try and start the bike. Go back and retime your cams.

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Jan 15, 2009


The best way to set up your suspension is to have someone hold the bike while your on it. Then a thrid person to watch. You with your feet on the pegs jump down on it with out sitting on seat. This thrid person is there to watch to make sure that the bike will rebound or come back to normal, with both the front and rear coming up at the same time. As far as the best set up, it is all a weight thing. Keep it where it is take to woods, if you don't like it adjust it. Keep doing this until you like it. It took me 2 days on my bike just to race one Harescramble.

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Jan 09, 2009


To adjust the chain you need to make sure you make the adjustment with the swing arm parallel to the ground, (this is the tightest point in the arc of the swing arm moving rotation), at that point you want to be able to put two finger between the chain and the swing arm at the swing arm pivot bolt. This will insure proper adjustment every time. The best thing to do is have somebody sti on the bike off the stand to make sure the swing arm is at its MAXIMUM arc, otherwise you stand a significant chance of over tightening it and this can and WILL cause SERIOUS damage to your engine. You will rip the output shaft bearings out of the center cases.
You also want too make sure you have proper wheel alignment as well. There are marks on the rear of the swing arm for adjusting the chain, make sure you have the marks on the adjusters in the same location on BOTH sides of the swing arm.
Please let me know if you need further assistance.
Regards,
RSelvy

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Jan 08, 2009


remove plunger and replace with a new one moisture has ruined the other one clean out area well

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Dec 28, 2008


if its making a rapping noise its the valves ,possibly contacting the piston

2005 Suzuki RM-Z... | Answered on Dec 23, 2008

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